Hans Ertl (mountaineer)

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Hans Ertl (born February 21, 1908 in Munich ; † October 23, 2000 in Chiquitania , Santa Cruz Department , Bolivia ) was a mountaineer , cameraman , war correspondent , director , farmer and author.

Life

Hans Ertl spent his childhood and youth in Urschalling on the Chiemsee .

He became known as a mountaineer at the beginning of the 1930s through the first ascent of the north faces of the Königspitze (September 5, 1930 with Hans Brehm) and the Ortler (June 22, 1931 with Franz Schmid ). Today, both paths are called Ertlweg , especially the north face of the Ortler is still one of the most difficult ice walls in the Eastern Alps. In 1934 he participated in the by Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth Expedition Himalayas into led International Karakorum part. Ertl and Albert Höcht made the first ascent of the 7,422 meter high Sia Kangri on August 12th .

As a cameraman from Arnold Fanck's school , he developed new camera and camera driving techniques through to the "flying camera" with which he simulated the flight of a ski jumper, particularly for Leni Riefenstahl 's Olympic films produced by Olympia-Film GmbH . Ertl was drafted into the Wehrmacht as a PK cameraman at the beginning of the Second World War and became the preferred cameraman of Field Marshal Erwin Rommel during the course of the war (with the rank of first lieutenant) . After 1945 he was temporarily banned from his profession by order of allied authorities, so that he worked as a photo reporter, among others for the illustrated magazine Quick . In 1952 he emigrated to Bolivia with his family .

After the war he took part in the German Bolivia expedition in 1950, during which he single-handedly climbed the Illimani north summit, the first ascent of the Illimani south summit (with Gert Schröder) and other early climbs of several six-thousanders. In 1953 Ertl became a participant in the Willy Merkl memory expedition led by Karl Herrligkoffer , which had set itself the goal of the first ascent of the eight-thousander Nanga Parbat . He accompanied Hermann Buhl to the last high camp at 6,900 m altitude, from where the summit success was achieved.

Hans Ertl was the father of Monika Ertl (1937–1973) who, as a member of the Bolivian underground movement ELN (Ejército de Liberación Nacional), tried to kidnap the former Gestapo chief Klaus Barbie from Bolivia together with the French Régis Debray . Hans Ertl had Barbie or "Klaus Altmann", as he now called himself, got his first job in a sawmill after his arrival in Bolivia, without knowing that he was a wanted war criminal. Ertl claimed, however, that "Altmann" had previously told him that he was a former member of the SS .

Works

  • 1932 assistant to Arnold Fanck's S.OS Eisberg
  • 1934 assistant to Arnold Fanck's The Eternal Dream
  • 1936 Principal cameraman at Leni Riefenstahl's Olympia - Part 1: Festival of the Nations, Part 2: Festival of Beauty
  • 1938 cameraman for Luis Trenker's love letters from the Engadin
  • 1939 cameraman for Arnold Fanck's Ein Robinson
  • 1939 Collaboration with the BDM plant Faith and Beauty with the film Faith and Beauty
  • In 1953 he accompanied the Herrligkoffer expedition to Nanga Parbat and made the documentary Nanga Parbat about Hermann Buhl's first ascent of the mountain. This earned him honorable recognition in the form of a certificate at the presentation of the German Film Prize in 1954.
  • In 1955, Hans Ertl climbed Cerro Paititi in Bolivia and films himself. His wife and daughters are also there. However, the film material is destroyed by carelessness in the copier, which is why Ertl turns the photos and diary entries into a book: "Paititi - A Scouting Party into the Past of the Incas".
  • In 1958 Ertl shot the adventure documentary Hito-Hito in the Bolivian jungle . His daughter Monika is named as the second camera (woman); it was to be the last film he completed.

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Peter Holl: Alpine Club Guide Ortleralpen , Bergverlag Rudolf Rother , Munich 1990. ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  2. ^ Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth: The third pole. The eight-thousanders and their satellites. Frankfurt / M. 1961, pp. 206f.

Web links

personal data
SURNAME Ertl, Hans
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer, cameraman, war correspondent, director
DATE OF BIRTH February 21, 1908
PLACE OF BIRTH Urschalling
DATE OF DEATH October 23, 2000
Place of death Chiquitania , Bolivia