Nanga Parbat (1953)

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Movie
Original title Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat from air.jpg
Country of production Federal Republic of Germany
original language German
Publishing year 1953
length 96 minutes
Age rating FSK 6
Rod
Director Hans Ertl
script Hans Ertl
production Wilhelm Stöppler
music Albert Fischer
camera Hans Ertl
cut Maria Stormeir
occupation

Participants in the expedition were :

Nanga Parbat is a 1953 documentary directed by Hans Ertl , who also wrote the script and directed the camera.

action

“The struggle for Nanga Parbat , 8,125 m, the“ Mountain of Terror ”, is overshadowed by a tragedy that is unprecedented in the history of the struggle for the eight-thousand-meter giants of our earth. Seven expeditions - including five German ones - stormed this western pillar of the Himalayas in vain . Thirty-one men, mountaineers and porters from different nations lost their lives. ”It is April 17, 1953 when the German-Austrian Willy Merkl memory expedition sets out to the snow-capped summit of Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain the earth to conquer. The expedition is led by the Munich doctor Dr. Herrling suitcase. The expedition members reached Pakistan by ship (from Genoa to Karachi ), railroad (through Pakistan ) and plane (into the Himalayas). Here they were presented with the summit flag, the flag of Pakistan, during a solemn ceremony. The loads to be carried were carried by jeeps and donkeys to the foot of the mountain, but then your own strength was required. We walked over the Rakhiot Bridge, Tatu and the Märchenwiese to the main camp at an altitude of 3,600 m. There, provisions and equipment were stored in a fixed tent, so that they could be carried up gradually by medical staff who had been provided with warm clothing.

The expedition participants come together at the grave of the German mountaineer Drexel, one of the victims the mountain claimed, to solemnly swear: “We vow to be honorable fighters in the struggle for one of the highest peaks on earth, the laws of comradeship to respect and do all we can to achieve the high goal. To the glory of mountaineering all over the world and to the honor of our fatherland. On our expedition: Berg Heil! ”The ascent through deep snow, over gaping crevasses and towering ice avalanches is more than difficult. Two-way radios are used to maintain contact with the main camp, which also makes suggestions for the next route or any necessary corrections. You progress slowly and get a little closer to the summit every day. When the men set up their third camp at an altitude of 6,100 m, the news reached them that Mount Everest had been conquered. This also increases their motivation. When they set up camp IV, two small tents in which they can sleep and prepare food, a monsoon warning reaches them from the main camp . The men are alarmed and worried. Should everything that you have already achieved have been in vain? They attempt to advance over the Rakhiot ice wall and get caught in hurricane-like storms. But then, all of a sudden, the weather improves and the sky opens up and lies clear and blue over the summit, which seems to be within reach. The men know that they have to take this opportunity, overcome the ice wall and cross the Mohrenkopf. You reach Camp V. There is now no stopping Hermann Buhl, at midnight he sets out on his own to reach the summit. Step by step he gropes his way forward without an oxygen device and then the time has come, after superhuman exertion he reaches the summit of Nanga Parbat around 7 p.m. and sets the Pakistani flag. “The first person on this lonely spot since the existence of our earth.” The falling night is too dangerous to start the way back to Camp V, so that Buhl has to wait on a narrow slab of rock until dawn. When he reached his comrades again after seemingly endless hours, they were relieved because they had already feared for him.

The men have achieved a victory in which all have their share. The descent demands all your strength again. From the ice region that rules above the tree line, they return to the green forests of Pakistan. They are celebrated and huge amounts of telegrams reach the participants of the expedition and especially Buhl expressing their appreciation for their achievement, including that of the German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer and the Federal President Theodor Heuss .

Production notes and background

The film was produced by Deutsche London Film Verleih GmbH (Hamburg), the direction was Wilhelm Stöppler, who also wrote the lyrics for the Nanga Parbat song . On November 13, 1953, it was subjected to an FSK test and found under the number 06975 for "suitable for young people" and "promoting young people" with the addition of "free of public holidays".

The film was first shown in the Federal Republic of Germany on November 13, 1953 in the Rathaus-Lichtspiele in Munich, in the German Democratic Republic it was released on March 5, 1954. Nanga Parbat was first broadcast on television on June 17, 1969 on ZDF .

The Nanga Parbat song by Albert Fischer, sung by the choir of the first hundred of the riot police in Munich, runs through the film, in between bells ringing every now and then, which made the film critic Gunter Groll mock: “From there it would not be far to the Nanga -Parbat-Schlager, something like this: Ice flowers bloom on the glacier grave or When the sun sinks behind the Nanga Parbat or Buhl, Buhl, just you . "

Hans Ertl (1908–2000) was a mountaineer and was considered one of the best cameramen of his time. He had specialized in mountain, sports and expedition films and in this role he accompanied the expedition to Nanga Parbat. There were later various legal disputes about the film and the exploitation rights. Bitter about this, Ertl withdrew from the film industry.

The Nanga Parbat is the only eight-thousander in the West Himalayas , located in Gilgit-Baltistan , the Pakistani part of the disputed Kashmir region , formerly known as the Northern Areas . Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) reached the 8,125 meter high summit of the mountain, also known as the “Germans' mountain of fate”, on July 3, 1953 after a 41-hour solo effort. Two of his frozen toes could not be saved. Buhl's solo effort was only grudgingly appreciated by expedition leader Herrligkoffer, since Buhl did not follow the instructions of the expedition leader, but only made the decision to climb to the summit. His success subsequently proved him right. Buhl viewed his first ascent as a personal success and wanted to use his summit victory accordingly. Herrligkoffer had secured all exploitation rights in advance. Legal disputes over exploitation rights were the result.

Appreciation in the film: In Memoriam

Willy Merkl (1900-1934) was a German engineer and mountaineer and the half-brother of Karl Herrligkoffer, who published his brother's notes in 1936 under the title Ein Weg zum Nanga Parbat .

DVD

The film was released on DVD on August 1, 2003, provider: Studio Complete Video.

criticism

The lexicon of international films summarized its judgment in the sentence: "Despite the commentary text, which is pathetic according to contemporary tastes, gripping thanks to excellent image and color design."

Moviepilot spoke of a “gripping documentary that is also a cinematic jewel that was created under the toughest conditions” and that we owe to Hans Ertl.

Awards

  • 1953: Rating: “Particularly valuable” from the FBW
  • 1954: "Honorable Recognition" at the German Film Prize 1954

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. a b Nanga Parbat - Above all peaks Buhl In: Der Spiegel 49/1953, December 2, 1953.
  2. Milestones (5): Nanga Parbat (1953) ( Memento of the original from September 23, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. documentary.info @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.dokumentarfilm.info
  3. Nanga Parbat DVD - heise.de
  4. Nanga Parbat. In: Lexicon of International Films . Film service , accessed March 2, 2017 .Template: LdiF / Maintenance / Access used 
  5. Nanga Parbat moviepilot.de. Retrieved August 13, 2015.