Urban Novak

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Urban Novak (born January 10, 1986 in Ljubljana , SFR Yugoslavia ) is a Slovenian mountaineer .

Novak became a member of the Kamnik Alpin Club in 2004 and received extensive alpine training there. As early as 2007 he accompanied a Slovenian expedition to Satopanth . In the following year an Alaska expedition to Mount Foraker and Denali , in 2009 to Pharilapcha in Nepal and in 2010 to Gasherbrum 1 .

In 2010 he and Ambrož Bajde opened the Insha'Allah route (TD, 70 ° / 50–60 °, 2000 m) at a secondary peak of Gaserbrum 1, the Hidden Sud, and climbed the mountain from July 17th to 19th, 2010. In September 2011, as an expedition leader, he successfully led a Slovenian rope team to the K7 .

In July 2012, Novak, together with the Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy, managed the first ascent of the east face of the K7 (M6). They needed two days for the alpine-style ascent. In October 2015 Novak climbed the east face of Cerro Kishtwar for the first time together with Hayden Kennedy, the French Manu Pellissier and Marko Prezelj via the opened route Light before Wisdom (ED +, 5.11, WI6, M6, A2, 1200 m). The ascent lasted from October 5th to 8th and was the third summit success on the mountain. For this achievement, the rope team was awarded the Piolet d'Or in 2016.

Novak is currently doing his PhD at the National Institute of Chemistry of Slovakia in Ljubljana.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Franci Savenc: Satopant 2007 - poročilo. gore-ljudje.net, September 24, 2007, accessed October 15, 2016 (Slovenian).
  2. ^ Matej Kladnik: Slovenians Strike Alaska Range. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, July 30, 2008, accessed October 15, 2016 .
  3. ↑ Urban Novak: Parilapča 2009. Komisija za alpinizem, accessed on October 15, 2016 (Slovenian).
  4. ↑ Gašerbrum 1. Komisija za alpinizem, accessed on October 15, 2016 (Slovenian).
  5. ↑ Ambrož Bajde: Hidden Sud (7019 m). Alpinistični odsek - PLANINSKO DRUŠTVO KAMNIK, September 1, 2010, accessed on October 15, 2016 (Slovenian).
  6. ^ A new Slovenian route on K7 in the Himalaya. Climbing.de, October 2, 2011, accessed on October 15, 2016 (English).
  7. ↑ Planetmountain.com: K7, new route up the East Face by Kennedy, Dempster and Novak. Mountain Network srl, July 27, 2012, accessed October 15, 2016 .
  8. ↑ EpicTV Interviews: Urban Novak on the First Ascent of K7's East Face. In: Vimeo . EpicTVAdventure, accessed October 15, 2016 .
  9. ↑ Planetmountain.com: Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj. Mountain Network srl, November 14, 2015, accessed October 15, 2016 .
  10. ↑ Cerro Kishtwar, 6173m (India). Piolet d'Or , accessed October 15, 2016 .
personal data
SURNAME Novak, Urban
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Slovenian mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH January 10, 1986
PLACE OF BIRTH Ljubljana , Slovenia