Steve House

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Steve House (born August 4, 1970 in La Grande , Oregon ) is an American mountain guide and professional extreme mountaineer . Together with Vince Anderson, he was honored with the 15th Piolet d'Or for his ascent of the central pillar of the Rupalwand on Nanga Parbat in alpine style . After this ascent, Reinhold Messner described House as "the best high-altitude climber of our time".

Life

House received his Bachelor of Science degree in ecology from Evergreen State College in 1995. As the ninth American, he completed in 1999 “the eight-year training as a mountain guide with all qualifications from the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) and IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations ) "Successfully.

In March 2010, House on Mount Temple fell 25 meters during an attempted inspection with his climbing partner Bruce Miller and sustained serious injuries. In September 2010 he was back as a mountain guide “in Grindelwald and in the Dolomites”.

Together with his wife Eva, House initiated Alpine Mentors in 2012 . In a two- to four-year training program, young alpinists were out and about with volunteer mountaineers in different mountains around the world. In 2019 House changed the concept of Alpine Mentors .

House lives in Ridgway , southwest Colorado and works with Vince Anderson as a guide for Skyward Mountaineering in the San Juan Mountains . House spends several months a year in Carinthia with his family in Europe .

Summit successes (selection)

  • 1995: Opening of the First Born route (Alaska Grade V = multiday, highly technical climb, 3350 m) on the Father and Sons Wall of Denali with Eli Helmuth from 1st to. July 2 in 33 hours.
  • 1996: Opening of the route Beauty is a Rare Thing (5.8 WI6, 2100 Hm), Washburn Wall , Denali on June 23rd in 14 hours.
  • 1997: Opening of the Mascioli's Pillar route (5.10 A0 WI6, 1200 m ascent ), South Buttress , Denali with Steve Swenson on June 15th to 16th in 30.5 hours.
  • 1998: First winter ascent of the route The Gift That Keeps on Giving (5.9 A3 WI6, 975 Hm) on the south face of Mount Bradley, Alaska range with Johnny Blizz and Mark Twight in three days.
  • 1998: Opening of the Call of the Wild route (VI WI6, 2200 m ascent) on the southwest face of King Peak from June 18 to 19 with Joe Josephson in 34 hours.
  • 1999: Opening of the winter route M-16 (WI7 + A2, 1000 m ascent) on the eastern flank of Howse Peak, Waputik Mountains, Canada from March 23rd to 27th with Barry Blanchard and Scott Backes.
  • 2000: Fastest ascent of the Slovak Direct (5.9 WI6 M5, 2750 m), southern flank of Denali with Mark Twight and Scott Backes in 60 hours.
  • 2001: Opening of the Route Sans Blitz (V 5.5 WI7, 800 m ascent) on the east face of Mount Fay in the Canadian Rockies with Rolando Garibotti and Barry Blanchard. Ascent in 34 hours.
  • 2001: Fastest ascent of the route The Infinite Spur (5.9 WI4) on the southern flank of Mount Foraker from June 9th to 10th with Rolando Garibotti in 45 hours.
  • 2001: Solo ascent of Cho Oyu in 27 hours.
  • 2003: Solo ascent and first ascent of an unnamed mountain (5985 m) in the Masherbrum mountain range via the Hajji Brakk route (5.9 65 °, 1200 m ascent ) on July 31 in 19 hours.
  • 2003 Second ascent of the Roberts-Rowell-Ward route (5.9 A2, 1500 m ascent) on Mount Dickey on the edge of the Ruth Glacier in September with Jeff Hollenbaugh in three days.
  • 2003: Opening of the route The Talkeetna Standard (V 5.9 WI5, 1100 Hm) on the Eye Tooth above the Ruth Glacier from September 18th to 20th with Jeff Hollenbaugh.
  • 2004: Opening of the House-Prezelj Variation (5.9 A2, 1370 m) on the Lowe-Jones route on North Twin Peak from April 5th to 7th with Marko Prezelj .
  • 2004: First ascent of Kapura Peak (6544 m) in the Karakoram on a route on the southwest flank (5.8 M5 90 °, 1100 m ascent) from July 2nd to 6th with Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Jeff Hollenbaugh, Marko Prezelj and Steve Swenson.
  • 2004: Solo ascent of the K7 and opening of a new route on the southwest flank (5.10 M6 + A2, 80 °) from July 24th to 25th in 41 hours. (2nd ascent of K7).
  • September 2005 Central pillar of the Rupal wall , (M5 X, 5.9, WI4, 4100 meters high), on Nanga Parbat with Vince Anderson . The wall is considered to be the highest rock face on earth.
  • 2005: First free on-sight ascent of the Cayesh (5719 m) in the Cordillera Blanca on a route with a level of difficulty 5.10, M7 + on June 8 with Marko Prezelj in 16.5 hours.
  • 2005: First free ascent of the Route Italian (ED1 VI 5.9 Al, 900 m) on Taulliraju with Marko Prezelj in three days.
  • 2007: Opening of Route House-Haley (WI5 M7 1770 Hm) on the Emperor Wall of Mount Robson from May 25th to 27th with Colin Haley in 36 hours.
  • 2007: First ascent of K7 West (6858 m) in the Karakoram over the south flank (VI 5.10- M6 WI4 A2, 2400 m) from September 1st with Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj in 4 days.
  • 2008: Opening of the winter route House-Anderson (WI5 + M8 R / X, 1000 m ascent) on the north face of Mount Alberta in Jasper National Park from March 26th to 28th with Vince Anderson.

Awards (selection)

  • 2005: Nomination for the Piolet d'Or 2004 for the solo ascent of the K7 in 41 hours over a new route on the southwest flank in July 2004. (2nd ascent of the K7.)
  • 2005: Winner of the audience award as part of the Piolet d'Or 2004 award for the solo ascent of K7 in July 2004.
  • 2006: 15th Piolet d'Or together with Vince Anderson for the ascent of the central pillar of the Rupal wall on Nanga Parbat in alpine style
  • 2009: Boardman - Tasker Mountain Literature Award for Beyond the Mountain .
  • 2014: UIAA -Achievement Award for his commitment to promoting young talent in alpinism.

literature

  • Steve House: Beyond the Mountain. Patagonia Books, New York 2009, ISBN 978-0-9790659-5-8 . (English)
  • Steve House: Beyond the Mountain: A Seeker's Expeditions. From the US by Hans Freundl and Karina Of. Malik, Munich 2010, ISBN 978-3-89029-384-4 .
  • Steve House, Scott Johnston: Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete. Patagonia Books, New York 2014, ISBN 978-1-93834-023-9 . (English)
  • Steve House, Scott Johnston: The New Alpinism Training Log. Patagonia Books, New York 2015, ISBN 978-1-93834-039-0 . (English)
  • Steve House and others: House Tour Booklet. 10 ski touring tips from Steve House in East Tyrol. Osttirol Werbung GmbH, 2016
  • Kílian Jornet Burgada , Steve House, Scott Johnston: Uphill Athlete: Training for ski mountaineers and mountain runners. riva Verlag , Munich 2019, ISBN 978-3-7423-1032-3 .

Charitable commitment

House created the Baltistan Education Foundation in 2004 and raised money for two boys to attend school in northeastern Pakistan. In 2007 he expanded his commitment and financed two teachers for girls' classes at the school in the village of Kande, Gilgit-Baltistan . Between 2011 and 2014, the Baltistan Education Foundation had the status of a non-profit organization under US law.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Bernd Steinle: Steve House. Beyond the mountains. Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung , November 13, 2010, accessed on November 24, 2019 .
  2. ^ Vince and Steve. Skyward Mountaineering, accessed November 24, 2019 .
  3. ↑ a b Alexandra Albert: Behind the summit it goes even further. Portrait: Steve House. German Alpine Club , accessed on November 24, 2019 (DAV 3/2017).
  4. ^ Lutz Bormann: Steve "farm boy" House. Mountaineer , accessed November 24, 2019 .
  5. ↑ Stefan Nestler: Der schmale Grat. Deutsche Welle , April 16, 2010, accessed on November 24, 2019 .
  6. ↑ Natascha Knech: Elite alpinist Steve House is climbing the north face of the Eiger again after his serious accident. Basler Zeitung , October 6, 2010, accessed on November 24, 2019 .
  7. ↑ Alexandra Albert: Steve House on his project "Alpine Mentors". German Alpine Club , accessed on December 4, 2013 .
  8. ^ Steve House: No More Alpine Mentors Groups. Alpine Mentors, accessed December 4, 2013 .
  9. ↑ Skyward Mountaineering. Skyward Mountaineering, accessed November 24, 2019 .
  10. ↑ Steve House: The Ghost of a Chance, An Account of the First Ascent of Mount McKinley's Father and Son's Wall. American Alpine Club , accessed October 3, 2016 .
  11. ↑ Steve House: Beauty is a Rare Thing, The Birth of a New Route on the Northwest Face of Denali's West Buttress. American Alpine Club , accessed October 3, 2016 .
  12. ↑ Steve House: Mascioli's Pillar, A Tribute to a Climbing Friend on the South Buttress of Denali. American Alpine Club , accessed October 3, 2016 .
  13. ↑ Mark Twight: North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt.Bradley, South Face, The Gift (That Keeps On Giving). American Alpine Club , accessed October 3, 2016 .
  14. ^ North America, Canada, Kluane National Park Reserve, King Peak, Call of the Wild. American Alpine Club , accessed October 13, 2016 .
  15. ^ Chic Scott: Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering . Rocky Mountain Books, Victoria (British Columbia), 2002 ( full text in Google Book Search - USA ).
  16. ^ Scott Backes: The American Alpine Journal 2001: Mt. McKinley's Slovak Route. American Alpine Club , New York, 2001 ( full text in Google Book Search - USA ).
  17. ↑ Steve House, Barry Blanchard: The American Alpine Journal 2001: Mt. Climbs and Expeditions in Canada . American Alpine Club , New York, 2001 ( full text in Google Book Search - USA ).
  18. ↑ Rolando Garibotti: North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur, almost Ascent. American Alpine Club , accessed October 3, 2016 .
  19. ↑ Steve House: Beyond the Mountain . Patagonia, New York, 2009, pp. 288 ( full text in Google Book Search - USA ).
  20. ↑ Steve House: Hajji Brakk. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, December 1, 2003, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  21. ^ Dougald MacDonald: French Team Repeats Alaskan Testpiece. In: Climbing.com. Active Interest Media, May 9, 2008, accessed October 13, 2016 .
  22. ↑ Steve House, Eye Tooth. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, March 1, 2004, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  23. ↑ North Twin. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, September 1, 2004, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  24. ↑ Steve Swenson: Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Charakusa Valley, K7, South Face New Route and Repeat of Japanese Route; Nayser Brakk, Southeast Ridge, Tasty Talking, No More Tasty Talking; Kapura, West Ridge; K7 West, Attempt. American Alpine Club , accessed October 13, 2016 .
  25. ↑ a b Piolet d'Or 2004 - the winners. In: Bergstieg.com. Alpinverlag Jentzsch-Rabl GmbH, March 4, 2005, accessed on October 12, 2016 .
  26. ↑ Steve House: New tour opened on the Rupal flank in alpine style. bergstieg.com, September 30, 2005, accessed January 18, 2010 .
  27. ↑ Marko Prezelj: Cayesh. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, December 1, 2005, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  28. ↑ Cayesh: The Calling. In: YouTube . Patagonia , November 16, 2010, accessed March 29, 2015 .
  29. ↑ Steve House: Cayesh, Slo-Am Route. American Alpine Club , accessed October 3, 2016 .
  30. ↑ Colin Haley: New Line on Mt. Robson by House, Haley. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, May 29, 2007, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  31. ↑ Luc Bauer: Prezelj, House, Anderson Tick K7 West. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, September 4, 2007, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  32. ^ Ice, Anarchy & The Pursuit of Madness: K7 West. In: YouTube . Patagonia , September 12, 2012, accessed March 29, 2015 .
  33. ^ Vince Anderson: New House-Anderson Line on Wintry Mt. Alberta. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, April 1, 2008, accessed October 3, 2016 .
  34. ^ Vinicio Stefanello and Betta Gobbi: Steve House. In: Planetmountain.com. Mountain Network srl, accessed October 12, 2016 .
  35. ^ Piolet d'Or 2005 to Vince Anderson and Steve House. Bergstieg.com, February 13, 2006, accessed November 24, 2019 .
  36. ^ Boardman Tasker Award Winners. BoardmanTasker.com, accessed October 13, 2016 .
  37. ^ Phil Bartlett: Boardman / Tasker 2009 Judgment. UKClimbing.com, November 2009, accessed October 13, 2016 .
  38. ↑ American climber and mountaineer Steve House given UIAA Achievement Award. Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme , October 18, 2014, accessed on October 13, 2016 .
  39. ^ Gunther Lehmann: Ski mountaineering. On tour in the "House Mountains" of East Tyrol. Mittelbayerische Zeitung , April 4, 2016, accessed on November 24, 2019 .
  40. ^ Baltistan Education Foundation. Steve House, accessed November 24, 2019 .
  41. ^ Baltistan Education Foundation. PUBLIC government data in United States (eochats.tech), accessed on November 24, 2019 .

Web links

personal data
SURNAME House, Steve
BRIEF DESCRIPTION American alpinist
DATE OF BIRTH 4th August 1970
PLACE OF BIRTH La Grande , Oregon