Xuelian Feng

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Xuelian Feng
Photo from space: Muzart glacier (center);  Xuelian Feng (bottom center)

Photo from space: Muzart glacier (center); Xuelian Feng (bottom center)

height 6627  m
location Bay County in Aksu Governorate in Xinjiang ( PR China )
Mountains Halke Shan ( Tian Shan )
Dominance 43.16 km →  Chulebos
Notch height 3068 m ↓  Muzart Pass ( 3559  m )
Coordinates 42 ° 15 ′ 43 "  N , 80 ° 53 ′ 20"  E Coordinates: 42 ° 15 ′ 43 "  N , 80 ° 53 ′ 20"  E
Xuelian Feng (Xinjiang)
Xuelian Feng
First ascent August 19, 1990 by a Japanese expedition
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The Xuelian Feng ( Chinese  雪蓮 峰 , Pinyin Xuělián fēng , English Snow Lotus Peak ; or Xueleng ) is a mountain in the eastern Tian Shan in the autonomous region of Xinjiang ( People's Republic of China ).

Xuelian Feng is located in Bay County in Aksu Governorate . The glacial mountain forms having a height of 6627  m , the highest peak in the eastern part of the mountain range Halke Shan . On its northeast flank lies the nutrient area of ​​a left tributary glacier of the Muzart glacier . A special feature of the Xuelian Feng is its great height of 3068 m.

Minor peaks

The Xuelian Feng has several secondary peaks:

The 6527  m high south summit ( ) is 1.78 km to the southeast from the main summit.

The 6472  m high north summit ( ) is 1.72 km north-northeast of the main summit.

The Baiyu Feng ( Aketasi Feng or White Jade Peak ) ( 6422  m or 6438  m ) is 5.8 km west.

The approximately 6400  m high east summit ( ) is connected to the south summit by a 4.34 km long mountain ridge.

A mountain ridge leads from the east summit to the north-east summit ( 6231  m ). The Muzart Glacier flows around its flanks.

Ascent history

The Tōkai section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) carried out a total of four expeditions to Xuelian Feng in 1986, 1988, 1989 and 1990. Finally, on the last expedition on August 19, 1990, the first ascent of the main summit of Xuelian Feng was achieved. The first to climb were Motochiro Fujita, Hideki Sakai, Mikio Suzuki, Etuo Nishikawa, Hiroshi Kojiri, Takuo Kato, Reiji Takahashi and Kazuo Tukushima.

Previously, on July 14, 1989, Juniichi Shinozaki and Akihito Yamazaki managed the first ascent of the south summit.

The two Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster as well as the Scottish Bruce Normand succeeded from 26th to 30th. August 2009 the ascent of the north face of the west ridge ( The Great White Jade Heist : 2650 m, WI5, M6, V). For this achievement they received the Piolet d'Or award .

Web links

Commons : Xuelian Feng  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. a b c Kazuo Tukushima: Asia, Western China, Xuelian Feng, Tien Shan . American Alpine Journal, 1991, vol. 33.
  2. ^ Asia, Western China, Xuelian Feng, Xinjiang . American Alpine Journal, 1990, vol. 32.
  3. Lindsay Griffin: The Great British Jade Heist . BMC, October 2, 2009.
  4. Keese Lane: Xuelian Massif Explored . Alpinist, October 7th, 2009.