Alex Honnold

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Alex Honnold, 2019
Honnold, 2014

Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985 in Sacramento ( California )) is an American professional mountaineer and extreme climber . In 2015 he received the Piolet d'Or for outstanding alpine achievements.

Life

Honnold started climbing at the age of eleven. At the age of 18 he left Berkeley University without a degree in order to devote all of his time to climbing.

Honnold became known in particular through free solo and speed ascents . Among other things, he was able to ascend the climbing route The Nose on the 910-meter-high El Capitan rock formation in Yosemite National Park in California within 5:49 hours , a route that normally takes two to four days. In June 2012 he was able to climb The Nose together with Hans Florine in 2:23:46, which was the fastest ascent of the route to date. On June 3, 2017, Honnold climbed the El Capitan on the Freerider route in 3 hours and 56 minutes, alone, without technical aids and without safety . Tommy Caldwell described the free solo ascent of the 1000 meter high wall as "The moon landing of free solo climbing". On June 6, 2018, Honnold and Tommy Caldwell climbed the El Capitan on the Nose route in 1:58:07.

Selected climbing performances

  • 2007: Freerider in Yosemite National Park in a single day at the age of 21 years.
  • 2007: Salathé Wall in Yosemite National Park.
  • 2008: Bushido and Hong Kong Phooey in Utah .
  • 2008: Free solo ascent of the Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+), Zion National Park , Utah in 83 minutes.
  • 2010: Fourth free solo ascent of the Separate Reality route in Yosemite National Park.
  • 2011: Free solo ascent of Chouinard-Herbert in Yosemite National Park.
  • 2011: Free solo ascent of The Phoenix (5.13), Yosemite National Park, in 8 minutes.
  • 2012: Speed ​​record on The Nose with Hans Florine in 2: 23.46.
  • 2012: “Yosemite Triple Crown” - Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome in Yosemite National Park in 18 hours and 50 minutes, free solo / freestyle.
  • 2014: The Fitz Traverse , Patagonia with Tommy Caldwell . "The route is over five kilometers long and has a vertical difference in altitude of over 4000 m, with climbing difficulties up to 7a (5.11d) C1 and 65 °." For this achievement they received the Piolet d'Or .
  • In 2014, Alex Honnold climbed the El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d, 7c +) free solo route, a 15- pitch tour near Monterrey, Mexico.
  • In 2014, he and David Allfrey climbed seven different routes on El Capitan in seven days .
  • 2017: On June 3, he climbed the El Capitan Free-Solo in 3:56 h on the Freerider route .
  • 2018: Ascent of El Capitan on the Nose route in 1:58 h.

Awards

In 2009, Honnold received the Robert Hicks Bates Award from the American Alpine Club for his outstanding achievements as a young climber since 2007.

In 2010, Honnold received the Golden Piton Award from the US American magazine Climbing in the Solo Climbing category for his free solo ascents of the Astroman (V 5.11c), Washington Column and The Regular North Face (V 5.11c), The routes Rostrum, Yosemite Valley in one day.

In 2011 he received the Golden Piton Award in the Endurance category for his solo speed ascent of the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12a) routes on Half Dome and The Nose (VI 5.9 C1) at El Capitan, Yosemite Valley on April 22. June 2010 in a time of just under eleven hours.

In April 2015, Honnold and Tommy Caldwell were awarded the Piolet d'Or . The award was given for the first complete ascent of the Fitz Traverse in Patagonia, which over the peaks of the Aguja Guillaumet, the Aguja Mermoz, the Cerro Fitz Roy, the Aguja Poincenot, the Aguja Rafael Juarez, the Aguja Saint-Exupery and the Aguja de l'S leads. Honnold and Caldwell made the crossing in five days.

Others

In 2012, Honnold founded the non-profit Honnold Foundation . The purpose of the foundation is to provide sustainable energy supplies and improve the living standards of poor people in the United States and Africa . The foundation's work focuses on solar energy projects in California, Colorado , the Navajo Nation Reservation and in some places in Africa. Honnold supports the foundation with a third of his income and works on projects such as in Angola on site. In order to reduce its ecological footprint, Honnold eats a vegetarian diet.

In 2014, Honnold lost the company Clif Bar & Company as a sponsor. Due to a change in its marketing strategy, the company decided to forego advertising with athletes, who are known for free solo inspections, among other things, after they had taken risks that the company no longer considered acceptable because they “had no room for Errors ”. The US press reported that the company had also supported the release of the documentary Valley Uprising as one of its main sponsors. Scenes from the film are dedicated to Honnold and his sporting achievements.

In 2018 the documentary film Free Solo was released , which accompanied Honnold on his free solo ascent of El Capitan . The film won the Oscar for best documentary in 2019.

Publications (selection)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. New nose speed record on bergstieg.com
  2. Stephanie Geiger: "That is the moon landing in the free solo scene". Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung , June 4, 2017, accessed on June 5, 2017 .
  3. Stephanie Geiger: Even faster at the "Nose" In: Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung of June 7, 2018, accessed on June 22, 2018.
  4. Honnold's Yosemite Year: A Free-Climbing Extravaganza from Alpinist.com
  5. ^ Honnold Rapid-Fires Two Desert-Crack Testpieces ( Memento of October 18, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) from Climbing.com
  6. Erik Lambert: Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress. Climbing.com, April 7, 2008, accessed June 25, 2015 .
  7. Amanda Fox: Honnold Free Solos The Phoenix (5.13). Climbing.com, June 15, 2011, accessed June 25, 2015 .
  8. Honnold's Biggest, Baddest Solo Yet on Climbing.com
  9. Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold manage to cross the 5,000 meter long Fitz Roy for the first time! bergstieg.com
  10. Alex Honnolds 500m / 7b + Free Solo bergstieg.com
  11. Without a rope 1000 meters straight up. June 4, 2017. Retrieved June 4, 2017 .
  12. supertopo: El Capitan Freerider
  13. ^ Dana Richardson: Alex Honnold wins AAC Award. UKClimbing.com, September 2009, accessed August 20, 2017 .
  14. Matt Samet, Justin Roth, Kristin Bjornsen, Leah Miller, and Mike Adamson: 2008 Golden Piton Awards. Climbing.com, accessed June 25, 2015 .
  15. Andrew Freeman: Confirmed: Honnold Breaks Yosemite Speed ​​Records. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, June 25, 2010, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  16. Joe Spring: 2010 Golden Piton Awards Announced. Outside Online, February 14, 2011, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  17. 2015 Piolets d'Or Winners Announced. Outside Online, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  18. The Fitz Traverse. Patagonia , accessed June 24, 2015 .
  19. Rolando Garibotti: Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse. In: Alpinist. Alpinist LLC, February 18, 2014, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  20. Honnold Foundation. About. Honnold Foundation, accessed August 20, 2017 .
  21. Barbara J. King: Rock Climbing Superstar Quests For Energy Sustainability. National Public Radio , December 3, 2015, accessed August 20, 2017 .
  22. Brad Russler: Alex Honnold Is Interested in Much More than Simply Rock Climbing. The national magazine of the Sierra Club , December 8, 2015, accessed August 20, 2017 .
  23. Will Grant: Alex Honnold Goes Solar in Angola. VICE Sports , December 18, 2015, accessed August 20, 2017 .
  24. ^ Luke Darby: The Real-Life Diet of a World-Class Rock Climber ... Who Lives in a Van. Accessed April 25, 2020 (English).
  25. Duane Raleigh: Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing. Rock and Ice Magazine, November 7, 2014, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  26. ^ A Letter to the Climbing Community. (No longer available online.) Clif Bar & Company, archived from the original on June 26, 2015 ; accessed on June 24, 2015 .
  27. ^ New York Times: A Sponsor Steps Away From the Edge , Nov. 14, 2014
  28. ^ John Branch: A Sponsor Steps Away From the Edge. International New York Times , November 14, 2014, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  29. Meet Yosemite Climber Alex Honnold. Valley Uprising. In: Discovery Channel . YouTube , April 16, 2015, accessed June 24, 2015 .
  30. ^ How Alex Honnold made 'the ultimate climb' — without a rope. January 15, 2019, accessed February 25, 2019 .
  31. imdb.com: Academy Awards 2019