Combination (climbing)

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Climbing pictogram.svg

The combination in climbing (often also an Olympic combination or Olympic Combined ) is a competition that combines the disciplines of speed climbing , bouldering and difficult climbing as an all- around sport . This discipline was created in the course of the appointment of sport climbing for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo .

Competition format

Competition venue for combination at the 2018 World Cup

In the qualification, the three sports speed climbing, bouldering and difficulty climbing are practiced in this order, the respective placements are multiplied with each other. The athletes with the lowest score advance to the final round. There the disciplines are climbed one after the other and the winner is determined.

Speed ​​climbing

In speed climbing, a 15 meter high route has to be climbed in direct comparison. For this, two athletes start at the same time on identical walls; in the second process, the routes are swapped to ensure equal opportunities. The athlete with the faster average time qualifies for the next round. The final runs over three rounds.

round 1st round 2nd round 3rd round
Quarter finals (VF) Qualification 1st against qualification 6th Qualification 2nd against qualification 5th Qualification 3rd against qualification 4th
Semi-finals (HF) Winner VF 1 against 4th VF (best time of the 3 losers) Winner VF 2 against winner VF 3  
Final (F) Loser semi-final 1 versus loser semi-final 2 Winner semi-final 1 versus winner semi-final 2  

Bouldering

In bouldering, short and demanding routes are climbed without a safety rope at a maximum height of 3 meters. The qualifying round consists of 5 routes, the semi-final of 4 and the final again of 4 routes. Each route contains marked starting points, a bonus grip and a top grip. The attempts that an athlete needs to get to the bonus grip or to climb the route completely are counted, for which he has a specified time limit. A route is considered to have been climbed if the top handle is touched with both hands for at least 2 seconds.

Difficulty climbing

The difficulty or lead climbing is carried out on artificial walls at least 12 meters high. The route will be in lead climbing climbing, meaning that the athlete is secured by a standing person on the ground, but hook the backup periodically itself must. In the qualification, there are two non-identical routes of similar difficulty, in the semi-finals and in the final one each. The time it takes to reach the final grip or the highest grip achieved with a secure stance is measured.

history

On the basis of a proposal from the organizers, the International Olympic Committee decided to include sport climbing in the program for the 2020 Summer Games, along with four other new sports. However, they wanted to keep the number of total athletes and medal decisions as low as possible and decided to only hold two competitions, one for each gender, in climbing. As a result, seven climbing associations for the IFSC at their meeting in Canada developed a competition format specifically for the Olympic Games. They announced the program on March 11, 2017. It was then used at the 2017 Youth and Junior World Championships and the 2018 World Climbing Championships , both in Innsbruck . In addition, a competition in the combination took place at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires from October 6 to 18 , before it has its Olympic debut in 2020 .

Results

Youth and junior world championships

For youth and junior world championships, the athletes are divided into three groups:

  • Youth B : 14–15 years
  • Youth A : 16-17 years
  • Juniors : 18–19 years
year winner Second Third
2017 Women Youth A AustriaAustria Sandra Lettner United StatesUnited States Ashima Shiarishi United StatesUnited States Brooke Raboutou
Women Youth B JapanJapan Natsuki Tanii JapanJapan Ai Mori JapanJapan Futaba Ito
Women Juniors AustriaAustria Laura Stockler RussiaRussia Iuliia Panteleeva United StatesUnited States Margo Hayes
Men Youth A FranceFrance Sam Avezou ItalyItaly Filip Schenk BulgariaBulgaria Petar Ivanov
Men Youth B RussiaRussia Semen Ovchinnikov JapanJapan Rei Kawamata JapanJapan Hidemasa Nishida
Men Juniors JapanJapan Meichi Narasaki JapanJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata United StatesUnited States Kai Lightner

World Championship

The winners of the 2018 men's world championship: 1. Jakob Schubert, AT; 2. Adam Ondra, CZ: 3. Jan Hojer, DE
year winner Second Third
2018 Women SloveniaSlovenia Janja Garnbret Korea SouthSouth Korea Sol Sa AustriaAustria Jessica Mushroom
Men AustriaAustria Jakob Schubert Czech RepublicCzech Republic Adam Ondra GermanyGermany Jan Hojer
2019 Women SloveniaSlovenia Janja Garnbret JapanJapan Akiyo Noguchi United KingdomUnited Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
Men JapanJapan Tomoa Narasaki AustriaAustria Jakob Schubert KazakhstanKazakhstan Rishat Khaibulin

Youth Olympic Games

year winner Second Third
2018 Women AustriaAustria Sandra Lettner SloveniaSlovenia Vita Lukan AustriaAustria Laura Lammer
Men JapanJapan Keita Dohi JapanJapan Shuta Tanaka FranceFrance Sam Avezou

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Overview of the disciplines. Retrieved September 26, 2018 .
  2. ↑ Combined 2017 format for IFSC Events and Olympic Games. (pdf) IFSC, August 7, 2017, accessed on September 26, 2018 (English).
  3. ↑ Speed ​​route plans. (pdf) IFSC, accessed on September 26, 2018 (English).
  4. ↑ Combined 2017 format for IFSC Events and Olympic Games. (pdf) IFSC, August 7, 2017, accessed on September 26, 2018 (English).
  5. ↑ Rules 2018. (pdf) IFSC, April 2018, pp. 33–44 , accessed on September 26, 2018 (English).
  6. ↑ Rules 2018. (pdf) IFSC, April 2018, pp. 17–30 , accessed on September 26, 2018 (English).
  7. ^ IOC approves five new Olympic sports. spiegel.de, June 1, 2016, accessed on September 25, 2018 .
  8. ↑ Sport climbing at the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo. kletter.de, March 13, 2017, accessed on September 26, 2018 .
  9. ^ Youngsters to experience a mix of traditional and modern in Buenos Aires. olympic.org, August 31, 2018, accessed September 26, 2018 .
  10. ↑ Rules 2018. (pdf) IFSC, April 2018, p. 76 , accessed on October 1, 2018 (English).
  11. ↑ IFSC Youth World Championships Combined - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017. September 9, 2017, accessed on October 1, 2018 .
  12. ↑ Pilz crowns home game with a combination bronze. sporf.orf.at, September 16, 2018, accessed on September 26, 2018 .
  13. ↑ Climbing World Championships: Schubert ensures a golden finish. sport.orf.at, September 16, 2018, accessed on September 26, 2018 .
  14. ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - hachioji (jpn) 2019 women Combined. IFSC, accessed August 23, 2019 .
  15. ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - hachioji (jpn) 2019 men Combined. IFSC, accessed August 23, 2019 .
  16. ↑ Results on buenosaires2018.com. Retrieved October 12, 2018 .
  17. ↑ Results on buenosaires2018.com. Retrieved October 12, 2018 .