Dreamtime (boulder)

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Dreamtime boulder (green line)

Dreamtime is a boulder in the Ticino municipality of Riviera ( Switzerland ). It was first climbed by Frederic Nicole on October 28, 2000 and rated it with a level of 8c on the Fontainebleau scale . It was the first time in the world that a boulder was rated with this level of difficulty.

The 20-train long boulder runs through an overhang of a boulder that overhangs about 45 degrees , first as a traverse from right to left, then it climbs up about the middle of the wall. Key pull is a jump to the ledge at the top of the overhang. In addition, there is an easier standing start variant with a difficulty level of 8a / 8a +, which begins directly at the key pull.

Broken handle

In 2004 the handles of the boulder were changed and "the original boulder was destroyed". Malcom Smith then rated Dreamtime with 8b + , this was u. a. confirmed by Nalle Hukkataival 2005 and Adam Ondra 2008. In autumn 2009 a grip broke and changed the boulder again. The first ascent of the standing start was Nalle Hukkataival in December 2009, he rated Dreamtime again with 8c. A few days later the line was climbed by Adam Ondra, who still gave the difficulty 8b +. The rating was confirmed by Jan Hojer 2013, who declared Dreamtime the most difficult 8b + of his climbing career, by Fabian Buhl 2013, Giuliano Cameroni 2015 and Jimmy Webb 2018 with 8c. Jakob Schubert scored 8b + in 2018. The level of difficulty is given as "mostly 8b + / 8c".

Inspections (selection)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Dreamtime. Bergstieg.com, June 7, 2017, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  2. ^ Sarah Burmester: "Dreamtime" broken in Cresciano. Kletter.de, November 13, 2009, accessed on May 21, 2010 .
  3. ↑ a b Malcom Smith repeat Dreamtime…… y suggest 8b +. Desnivel.com/, February 11, 2004, accessed November 17, 2019 (Spanish).
  4. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j grip breakout in "Dreamtime" [Ticino]. Kletterszene.com, November 14, 2009, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  5. ↑ Nalle Hukkataival celebrates the "new Dreamtime (8C)". Kletterszene.com, December 13, 2009, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  6. ^ Dougald MacDonald: Ondra Flashes V14 Boulder Problem. Climbing.com, December 21, 2009, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  7. ↑ Hojer Sends Dreamtime (V15). Rock and Ice, February 19, 2013, accessed November 17, 2019 (eb).
  8. ↑ There were loads of 8C climbed [Shortnews]. Kletterszene.com, March 14, 2013, accessed on November 17, 2019 .
  9. ^ Giuliano Cameroni completes the Dreamtime boulder. OnBouldering.com, January 8, 2015, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  10. ↑ Jimmy Webb boulders Fred Nicole classic Dreamtime. LACRUX climbing magazine, February 15, 2018, accessed on November 17, 2019 .
  11. ↑ Jakob Schubert repeats the classic "Dreamtime" Fb 8b +. The climbing block, February 20, 2018, accessed on November 17, 2019 .
  12. ↑ Beat Kammerlander : Bernd Zangerl and Dreamtime at Cresciano. Planetmountain.com, June 15, 2001, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  13. ↑ Dave Graham repite Dreamstime. Desnivel.com, January 31, 2002, accessed November 17, 2019 (Spanish).
  14. ↑ Chris Sharma repeats Dreamtime. Desnivel.com, November 6, 2002, accessed November 17, 2019 (Spanish).
  15. ↑ Report on Cristian Core on planetmountain.com ; Retrieved May 21, 2010
  16. ^ Willenberg sends Dreamtime. Climbing.de, April 20, 2003, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  17. ↑ Report on Nalle Hukkataival's inspection on bergleben.de ; Retrieved May 21, 2010
  18. ↑ Dreamtime by Kilian Fischhuber. Bergstieg.com, January 6, 2008, accessed May 20, 2010 .
  19. ↑ David Firnenburg climbs the famous 8c boulder Dreamtime in Cresciano. Climbing magazine LACRUX, December 27, 2018, accessed on November 17, 2019 .
  20. ↑ Jernej Kruder climbs Dreamtime (8c) in Cresciano. Climbing magazine LACRUX, November 11, 2019, accessed on November 17, 2019 .

Coordinates: 46 ° 17 '  N , 9 ° 1'  E ; CH1903:  721054  /  126966