Beat Kammerlander

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Beat Kammerlander (born January 14, 1959 in Nüziders / Vorarlberg ) is an Austrian sport climber .

Life

Beat Kammerlander is one of the world's best sport climbers and has made a significant contribution to the development of climbing, especially in alpine terrain. His first ascent "Neverending History" in 1991 in the Rätikon is the first alpine rock route in the upper tenth degree. In addition, his route " Silbergeier " ( difficulty X + (UIAA) , 1994) was one of the three most difficult alpine tours in the world, the trilogy , until Alexander Huber climbed an even more difficult route in 2001 with "Bellavista" on the north face of the Western Zinne could.

In 1997 he set up the multi- pitch route “WoGü” (7 pitches ) in the Rätikon massif, which he named after Wolfgang Güllich and was the first to commit it. Adam Ondra made the first red point ascent of this route in 2008.

He was also very successful as a sport climber, with "Speed" (XI- / XI) and "Missing Link" (XI) on the Voralpsee in Switzerland, two extremely difficult routes. In 2009 he succeeded in repeating his route "Hope Principle" from 1997 without using drill or normal hooks, i.e. clean . Beat Kammerlander rated the route as X / X +, E9 – E10. The E-scale refers to the English scale and represents the psychological demands of the route.

Important inspections

  • Winter ascent of the north face of the Eiger (1980)
  • Solo ascent of the central pillar on the Heiligkreuzkofel (VIII) (1981)
  • New Age , Rätikon (1988)
  • Neverending Story , Rätikon (X + / 8b +), 1991, temporarily the most difficult alpine rock route
  • Silbergeier , Rätikon (1993)
  • Hope principle , Bürser plate (X / X + or 8b / 8b +)
  • Combat zone , small tower in the Rätikon massif (2017) (1st pitch 8b +, 2nd floor 8c-, 3rd floor 8a + -, 4th floor 7a, 5th floor 7c)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Karin Steinbach Tarnutzer : Adam Ondra, The climbing genius from the Czech Republic, In search of the perfect feeling, In: DAV Panorama, 1/2011, pp. 50–54.
  2. ↑ "The Hope Principle": Beat Kammerlander defeats Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg ( Memento from September 9, 2012 in the web archive archive.today )
personal data
SURNAME Kammerlander, Beat
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian sport climber
DATE OF BIRTH January 14, 1959
PLACE OF BIRTH Nüziders , Vorarlberg