Silver vulture

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The south walls of the Kirchlispitzen
Climber in the silver vulture

The Silbergeier is an alpine sport climbing route in the Rätikon , a mountain group of the Eastern Alps . The route is located on the south face of the 4th Kirchlispitze on the Swiss side, is around 185 m long and is divided into six pitches (8b +, 7c +, 8a +, 7a +, 8b + and 7c +). It was opened in 1993 by Beat Kammerlander from below without having to abseil beforehand and in 1994 it was free climbed in one day. The Rätikon is known for its compact limestone slabs and technically demanding climbing, Kammerlander has already made difficult first ascents there , including New Age (1988, 8a +) and the Neverending Story (1991, 8b +).

The alpine trilogy

In the year of the first ascent (1994), Stefan Glowacz Des Kaiser's new clothes on the Wilder Kaiser and Thomas Huber End of Silence on the Feuerhorn in the Berchtesgaden Alps . These three outstanding tours soon became well known and became the infamous “Alpine trilogy”. For a long time, the parts of the trilogy were the hardest climbing routes in the Alps, and today they are still real touchstones for top climbers. Only when Alexander Huber opened Bellavista (8c) on the western pinnacle of the Drei Zinnen in the winter of 2000 and climbed free the following year, there was a still challenging successor.

Repetitions

View from the Drusenfluh into the south walls of the Kirchlispitzen (back).

The first repetition of the Silbergeier was made by Peter Schäffler in 1997, who, like Kammerlander, comes from Vorarlberg . Stefan Glowacz (1998) and the Italian Pietro dal Pra (1999) were able to repeat it later. Since then, a handful of top climbers have been successful on the route, the most prominent among them perhaps Adam Ondra , who climbed the route in one day in 2007 at the age of 14. The Swiss Nina Caprez was the first woman to climb freely on the renowned 2011 tour. Barbara Zangerl from Austria climbed the tour in 2013, and in the same year she was the first woman and fifth person to complete the alpine trilogy.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ beat Kammerlander. (No longer available online.) In: www.beatkammerlander.com. Archived from the original on March 15, 2016 ; accessed on May 13, 2016 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.beatkammerlander.com
  2. ↑ The trilogy and its consequences. In: www.bergstieg.com. Retrieved May 13, 2016 .
  3. ↑ Adam Ondra (14) climbs Silver Vulture 8b + and Abyss 9a. In: www.bergstieg.com. Retrieved May 13, 2016 .
  4. ↑ Silver Vulture - Nina Caprez & Cedric Lachat. In: Vimeo. Retrieved May 13, 2016 .
  5. ↑ Great White Vulture | Barbara Zangerl. In: barbara-zangerl.at. Retrieved May 13, 2016 .

Coordinates: 47 ° 2 ′ 18 "  N , 9 ° 46 ′ 23"  E ; CH1903:  777386  /  212342