Stefan Glowacz

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Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning , Bavaria ), grew up in Oberau near Garmisch-Partenkirchen , is a professional mountaineer and extreme climber .

Stefan Glowacz

Life

Stefan Glowacz started climbing at the age of 15 and quickly made it to the top of the world. In 1987 he won the Rockmaster in Arco, Italy for the first time and aroused media interest. Two more victories in the same competition followed in 1988 and 1992.

In 1993 he ended his active competitive career after a runner-up world title at the climbing world championship and has since devoted himself to the natural challenges of rock climbing on remote walls of the world. His companions include Kurt Albert and Holger Heuber . He gave a funeral speech for Albert, who died in an accident in 2010. He finances his ventures through journalistic activities, lectures and films. He also works as a speaker in the sports and business sector.

He is a co-founder of the Red Chili company (now part of Edelrid ), which mainly produces climbing shoes and clothing since 2014, and is actively involved in the marketing of the products. He is the editor of the ALLMOUNTAIN magazine , which is published by Delius Klasing .

Glowacz is in his second marriage to Tanja Valérien-Glowacz, the daughter of Harry Valérien , and the father of triplets.

successes

  • 1985: Winner at Sport Roccia (Bardonecchia, Italy)
  • 1987, 1988, 1992: Winner Rockmaster (Arco, Italy)
  • 1992: Winner of the unofficial demonstration competition of the Olympic Games in Albertville , France
  • 1993: Vice World Champion (Innsbruck, Austria)

Ventures

  • 1994: First ascent of "The Emperor's New Clothes" Wilder Kaiser , Austria ( X + (UIAA) ), Greenland Expedition, first ascent of "Moby Dick" (IX +)
  • 1995: Canada expedition, first ascent "Fitzcaraldo" (VIII +)
  • 1996: First ascent with Kurt Albert in the Dolomites: South face of the Kleiner Zinne "Yellow Wall" (IX)
  • 1997: East Greenland expedition, first ascent "Northern Lights" on Tupilak (VIII +)
  • 1999: Sailing and climbing expedition to the Antarctic , first ascent "Hart am Wind" (IX)
  • 2000: climbing expedition Vietnam; Climbing expedition to Baffin Island (IX)
  • 2001: Climbing expedition Mexico "El Gigante" (IX +)
  • 2003/04/05: Patagonia Murallón near El Chaltén , Province of Santa Cruz, Argentina, "The lost world" (VIII), "Gone with the wind" (IX)
  • 2004: First ascent of Titlis Engelberg / Switzerland "Last exit Titlis" (X-)
  • 2006: Climbing expedition to the Acopan-Tepui Table Mountain in Venezuela, first ascent of the “Purgatory” route (IX)
  • 2008: Climbing expedition to Baffin Island , inspection of the route "The Bastions" (X-) on the "Buchan Gulf"
  • 2009: Climbing expedition Minas Gerais / Brazil “Place of happiness” (IX), non-stop attempted ascent of the route “Royal Flash” on Fitz Roy / Patagonia
  • 2010: First ascent of the route “Behind the Rainbow” (IX + / X-), on Roraima Table Mountain in the triangle between Guyana , Venezuela and Brazil
  • 2013: Climbing expedition to the Majlis al-Jinn cave , first ascent "Into the Light" (8b +) with Chris Sharma

Books

  • Correct free climbing (together with Wolfgang Pohl)
  • Rocks around the World (together with Uli Wiesmeier)
  • Aiming high: a salesman and a mountaineer on a successful tour (together with Kai Pfersich)
  • On the Rocks: Life at your fingertips (with Ulrich Klenner)
  • Expeditions. Extreme climbing at the end of the world (together with Tanja Valérien-Glowacz, Delius-Klasing-Verlag, Bielefeld 2011, ISBN 978-3-7688-3339-4 )
  • 10 commandments to avoid crashes: Success strategies for work and everyday life (together with Mila Hanke)
  • Hunter of the moment: Dreamland Venezuela - behind the scenes of an adventure film expedition (together with Holger Heuber and Klaus Fengler; also exists in the film of the same name)
  • Into the light , together with Chris Sharma

Movies

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ An egoist full of emotions and realistic dreams (PDF file; 83 kB), dav Cologne, accessed on September 2, 2012.
  2. ↑ Climbing in all weathers in FAZ from April 25, 2013, page 28.
  3. ↑ Josh Sampiero: Glowacz & Sharma: Climbing in a cave in Oman. Retrieved July 10, 2016 .
personal data
SURNAME Glowacz, Stefan
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer, extreme climber
DATE OF BIRTH March 22, 1965
PLACE OF BIRTH Tittmoning , Bavaria