Fabian Buhl

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Fabian Buhl (born November 2, 1990 in Lindenberg im Allgäu ) is a German boulderer and alpinist . Buhl is known for solo ascent of multi- pitch routes that are difficult to climb.

Life

Buhl started bouldering at the age of 16 , previously he was active as an alpine skier. He became known in specialist circles for repeating 8B boulders. He gained international attention in 2013 with the opening of Santoku (8B) in Bodio , Switzerland. In March 2013 he succeeded in repeating Dreamtime (8C).

Three ankle fractures and two broken heels forced Buhl to stop bouldering. He changed disciplines and began solo climbing in extreme rock. Buhl made his debut in trad climbing in spring 2014 with the route Prinzip Hoffnung (8b / 8b +) on the Bürser Platte in Austria, which Beat Kammerlander opened in 2009. This was followed by the Silbergeier (6 pitches, 200 m, 8b +) in the Rätikon in Switzerland, which Kammerlander also climbed for the first time in 1993. In November 2014, Buhl succeeded in repeating Alexander Huber's route Nirwana (200 m, 8c +), which was opened in 2012, at the Loferer Alm . Nirvana is considered to be one of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world.

Buhl climbed the trad route Psychogram (8b +, opened in 2014 by Alex Luger ) on the Bürser Platte for the first time in January 2015. In the same year he climbed the “ Frontman Deluxe (9a) in the Allgäu, first started by Christian Bindhammer ”.

In winter 2016 Buhl repeated the ten-pitch route Wetterbock (350 m, 8c) solo , which Alexander Huber first climbed on the Wetterbockwand on the Hoher Göll (2522 m) in 2013 and "liberated" in 2014. Rotpunkt solo, Buhl climbed the route in the summer of the same year. Then he opened the route Ganesha (7 pitches, 4 intermediate bolts, 8c) on the solstice wall of the Lofer Steinplatte in Austria in a solo ascent . With Alexander Huber he then climbed the Sueños de Invierno (540 m, 8a) on the Naranjo de Bulnes in Spain red point in nine hours in September 2016 . The first climbers José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives needed 69 days in 1983.

In the summer of 2017, Buhl succeeded in repeating the "8c-Boulder La Boa", which Fred Nicole opened in 2011 for the first time. This was followed by a repetition of the multi-pitch route Tough Enough (380 m, 8c) on the east face of the Karambony in Tsaranoro, Madagascar, which Adam Ondra climbed solo red point for the first time in 2010 . Then he and Alexander Huber rotpunkt climbed their route La Grand Rouge (15 pitches, 8b), opened in 2016, on Tadrarate, Taghia in the High Atlas in Morocco. "In autumn 2017" Buhl managed "impressively fast and single-handedly" Odyssey "(33 SL, X-), the toughest route on the north face of the Eiger ", first climbed in 2015 by Robert Jasper , Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl . In winter, Buhl climbed the Californian “highballs” Ambrosia (8a), Too big to flail (7c, opening by Alex Honnold ) and the first repetition of Old Gregg (8a, first ascent in 2015 by Ethan Pringle ) within a week .

Buhl succeeded in the "baptism of fire in mountaineering at great heights" together with Alexander Huber in summer 2018. They opened redpunkt The Big Easy , a 2200 m long route with a level of difficulty 5.10+ A1 on Choktoi Ri (6166 m, also known as Suma Brakk) in the Karakoram , Pakistan. The passage was added to the shortlist for the Piolet d'Or in 2018 .

With Luka Lindič , Buhl opened the mixed route Sau hladno! In January 2019 . (AI6 M5) on the west side of the Cima Tosa . In February 2019 Buhl climbed the "8b + Boulders Iur in Cresciano " in the third ascent , Iur was opened in 2018 by Giuliano Cameroni.

Buhl studies geosciences and lives in Oberstaufen .

Successes (selection)

Bouldering

  • 2012: I portici ( Fb 8a +), Osogna , Switzerland
  • 2012: Delusion of grandeur (Fb 8b), Chironico , Switzerland
  • 2012: Amber (Fb 8b), Brione , Switzerland
  • 2012: Crackline (Fb 8b), Chironico, Switzerland
  • 2012: Bourguignon (Fb 8b), Murgtal , Switzerland
  • 2012: New Base Line (Fb 8b +), Ausserferrera , Switzerland
  • 2012: American Gangster (Fb 8b +), Zillertal , Switzerland
  • 2012: Oliphant's dawn (Fb 8b +), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2012: Golden shadow (Fb 8b +), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2013: The dagger (Fb 8b +), Cresciano , Switzerland
  • 2013: Opening of Santoku (Fb 8b +), Bodio , Switzerland
  • 2013: Dreamtime (Fb 8c), Cresciano, Switzerland
  • 2013: Anam Cara (Fb 8b +), Silvretta , Switzerland
  • 2017: Ambrosia (Fb 8a), Too big to flail (Fb 7c + / 8b) and Old Greg (Fb 8a), Bishop , United States within a week
  • 2017: Le Boa (Fb 8c), Walensee , Switzerland
  • 2019: Iur (Fb 8b +), Cresciano, Switzerland

Sport climbing

  • 2015: Frontman Deluxe (9a), Allgäu

Trad climbing

  • 2014: Principle of Hope (Fb 8b / 8b +), Bürser Platte, Austria
  • 2015: Psychogram (Fb 8b +), Bürser Platte, Austria

Alpine multi-pitch

  • 2014: Nirwana (Fb 8c +, 7 pitches), solo rotpunkt, Loferer Alm , Austria
  • 2014: Silbergeier (Fb 8b +, 6 pitches), Rätikon Switzerland
  • 2016: Solo first ascent of the Ganesha route (Fb 8c, 7 pitches), Loferer Steinplatte, Austria
  • 2016: Winter solo ascent of the Wetterbock (Fb 8c, 10 pitches), north face of Hoher Göll , Austria and red point ascent in summer
  • 2016: Red point ascent of the Sueños de Invierno (Fb 8a, 540 m), Picu Urriellu , Spain with Alexander Huber in nine hours
  • 2017: Tough Enough ( UIAA X +), solo red point over 3 days, 10 pitches, 380 m, Madagascar
  • 2017: Opening of the route La Grande Rouge (Fb 8b, 17 pitches) red point on the Tadrarate, Taghia in the High Atlas in Morocco with Alexander Huber
  • 2017: Odyssey (UIAA X-, 33 pitches, 1400 m), solo, Eiger north face
  • 2018: Opening of the Route The Big Easy ( YDS 5.10 + R A1 M6, 56 pitches, 2200m) on Choktoi Ri (6166 m), Karakorum , Pakistan with Alexander Huber
  • 2019: Opening of the mixed route Sau hladno! (AI6 M5) on the west side of the Cima Tosa with Luka Lindič

Films (selection)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Interview with Fabian Buhl - one of the world's best mountaineers from Oberstaufen. (PDF) Allgäuer Sportreport, 2015, accessed on November 16, 2019 (pp. 20–21).
  2. ↑ a b Björn Pohl: Video: Fabian Buhl - first ascent of Santoku, ~ 8B +. UKClimbing, February 12, 2013, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  3. ↑ Lots of 8C climbs. Shortnews. Kletterszene.com, March 14, 2012, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  4. ^ Austrian Board of Trustees for Alpine Safety: SOLO - Dare to live your dream (Fabian Buhl). Meinviertel.at, November 5, 2019, accessed on November 16, 2019 .
  5. ↑ Brunka: Tradowy debiut boulderowca - Fabian Buhl on “Principle Hope”. Wspinanie.pl, March 7, 2014, accessed November 16, 2019 (Polish).
  6. ↑ Monica Nigon: Fabian Buhl Expand's repertoire With Six-pitch Silbergeier (5.14a). Rock and Ice, October 8, 2014, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  7. ^ Isaac Fernández: Fabian Buhl: "Nirwana (200 m, 8c +) is one of the biggest multipitch challenges of the world". Desvinel.com, November 20, 2014, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  8. ^ Isaac Fernández: Fabian Buhl: "Nirwana (200 m, 8c +) is one of the biggest multipitch challenges of the world". Desvinel.com, November 20, 2014, accessed on November 16, 2019 (English): "With a cotation of 8c +, it's one of the hardest multipitch routes of the world."
  9. ↑ psychogram, la de vecina principle Hofnung, a cargo de Alex Luger y Fabian Buhl. Desvinel.com, January 30, 2015, accessed November 16, 2019 (Spanish).
  10. ↑ a b Fabi Buhl: Winter ascent of the Wetterbockwand (11-). In: climbing. Motor Presse Stuttgart , April 26, 2016, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  11. ↑ Chris Van Leuven, Cameron Burns: Fabian Buhl's Solo Winter Ascent of 5.14 Alpine Route in Austria. Alpinist.com, August 1, 2016, accessed on November 14, 2019 (English, freed = red dot): "freed"
  12. ↑ a b c d e f g h i Heinz Zak : Fabian Buhl. Enthusiasm and belief. (PDF) In: Panorama. German Alpine Club , April 2019, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  13. ↑ Ganesha (8c, 7 pitches) - Rope Solo First Ascent by Fabian Buhl. In: YouTube . World of Freesports, March 15, 2017, accessed November 14, 2019 .
  14. ↑ Sarah Burmester: Alexander Huber & Fabi Buhl free 'Suenos de Invierno' (540m, 8a). Kletter.de, November 9, 2016, accessed on November 14, 2019 .
  15. ↑ a b Fabian Buhl is the first to repeat the 8c boulder Le Boa. LACRUX climbing magazine, July 17, 2017, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  16. ↑ Adam Ondra climbs Tough Enough (400 m, 8c). Bergstieg.com, October 16, 2010, accessed November 14, 2019 .
  17. ^ Fabian Buhl: Tadrarate, La Grand Rouge. American Alpine Club , accessed November 12, 2019 .
  18. ↑ Odyssey. Bergstieg.com, September 25, 2015, accessed November 14, 2019 .
  19. ↑ Fabian Buhl repeats three highballs in one week. LACRUX climbing magazine, December 15, 2017, accessed on November 14, 2019 .
  20. ↑ Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakoram, Pakistan. Planetmountain.com, December 22, 2018, accessed on November 14, 2019 (English): "[...] for Buhl it represents and important baptism of fire to high altitude mountaineering."
  21. ↑ Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world's most significant, innovative mountain climbs. Planetmountain.com, July 5, 2019, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  22. ↑ Luka Lindič, Fabian Buhl add new climb to Cima Tosa, Brenta Dolomites. Planetmountain.com, January 16, 2019, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  23. ↑ a b Fabian Buhl on Anam Cara, Silvretta. Up-climbing.com, October 24, 2013, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  24. ^ Christian Thiele: Interview with Fabian Buhl. "Speed ​​is not an end in itself". alpin.de - Das Bergmagazin online, October 3, 2018, accessed on November 14, 2019 .
  25. ↑ a b c d e f Björn Pohl: Video: Fabian Buhl's Swiss ticks. UKClimbing, May 7, 2012, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  26. ↑ Björn Pohl: Fabian Buhl climbs American gangster, 8B +. UKClimbing, November 17, 2012, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  27. ↑ a b Björn Pohl: Two 8B + 's by Fabian Buhl. UKClimbing, September 1, 2012, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  28. ↑ a b Fabian Buhl repite 'Dreamtime' y Daniel Woods 'The bridge of ashes', ambos 8C. Desnivel.com, March 20, 2013, accessed November 12, 2019 (Spanish).
  29. ↑ Björn Pohl: Fabian Buhl completes highball triple at Bishop. UKClimbing, December 21, 2017, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  30. ↑ Fabian Buhl gets the third ascent of the Boulder Iur in Cresciano. LACRUX climbing magazine, June 18, 2019, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  31. ↑ Björn Pohl: Principle of Hope, ~ 8b + E9 / 10, by Fabi Buhl. UKClimbing, March 7, 2014, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  32. ↑ Psychogram 8b +, trad.Bergstieg.com , January 26, 2015, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  33. ↑ Nils Beste: Fabian Buhl in a portrait: From bouldering specialist to all-rounder. Climbing.de, March 19, 1015, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  34. ^ Fabian Buhl climbs Silbergeier, Ratikon. Up-climbing.com, October 8, 2014, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  35. ↑ Fabian Buhl. Petzl , accessed November 12, 2019 .
  36. ↑ Fabian Buhl climbs Ganesha (8c) on the Loferer Steinplatte. LACRUX climbing magazine, March 17, 2017, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  37. ↑ Fabian Buhl escala en solitario el Wetterbock (8c, 10 largos) de Alex Huber. Desnivel.com, April 18, 2016, accessed November 12, 2019 (Spanish).
  38. ↑ Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl: Success at Picu Urriellu. alpin.de - Das Bergmagazin online, October 20, 2016, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  39. ↑ AlMa: New multi- pitch tour by Alex Huber and Fabian Buhl. The climbing block, December 18, 2017, accessed on November 12, 2019 .
  40. ^ Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan. PlanetMountain.com, December 22, 2018, accessed November 12, 2019 .
  41. ^ Fabian Buhl: Suma Brakk, South Ridge, The Big Easy. American Alpine Club , accessed November 12, 2019 .
  42. ↑ Sau Hladno! - Cima Tosa. Bergstieg.com, January 16, 2019, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  43. ↑ Uphill-downhill. The magazine for mountaineers. Fabian Buhl in portrait. From boulderer to mountaineer. BR Television , accessed November 12, 2019 .
personal data
SURNAME Buhl, Fabian
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH November 2, 1990
PLACE OF BIRTH Lindenberg in the Allgäu