Traditional climbing

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Trad climber in Joshua Tree National Park

Traditional climbing , also known as trad climbing , is a variant of sport climbing in which the safety equipment is only placed during the climb and then removed again when the passage is over. The distances between the hooks are usually larger than in sport climbing with existing rock hooks or there are none. With traditional climbing, the distances can be up to 23 meters. In sport climbing, only one to three meters are often common. The term traditional climbing was coined by Tom Higgins and mentioned in his book "Tricksters and Traditionalists" from 1984.

The term "traditional climbing" indicates the difference to sport climbing (where all hooks or loops are permanently in the rock). These solid safety devices are typically drilled in when abseiling or free solo climbing the route. Under the traditional climbing and gluing, punching and drilling falls, but only if this happens during climbing and the route from the ground laid up is. This technique is mainly used when climbing (granite) slabs, as there are fewer possibilities to attach temporary securing devices in crevices and holes.

Before sport climbing first appeared in Europe and later also in the USA in the 1980s, climbing without predetermined safety points corresponded to what is now called traditional . The term "sport climbing" was also and repeatedly used as a synonym for traditional climbing by John Long in his manual How to Rock Climb in 1989 . In trad climbing, a lead climber places his own safety device in a certain section of the route while climbing. Until the 1970s, this safety device was mainly limited to normal hooks that are driven into the rock. Nowadays there are fewer normal hooks and instead a combination of clamping wedges and clamping devices are used.

The most important aspects of traditional climbing are the “exploratory character” and nature conservation by avoiding damage to the rock, which is caused, for example, by normal hooks. The change to this climbing ethic is due to the commitment of Yvon Chouinard and many others, who also enforced the leave no trace principle when climbing.

equipment

In some known trad climbing routes, such as B. the North Overhang (5.9) at Intersection Rock in Joshua Tree National Park , hooks were drilled in places to be on the safe side. However, special equipment is required for the rest of the route

The equipment for traditional climbing generally corresponds to the usual climbing equipment. This is understood to be mechanical devices that protect climbers when falling. Above all, it is about catching the falling person. The suitability of the equipment depends on the rock, its structure and surface. “Setting of safety devices” refers to the placing or clamping of safety aids and the subsequent connection to the climbing rope using a carabiner . This happens before the climber climbs higher. In the event of a fall, the safety catch catches the rope and thus also the climber. In this way, it is saved from falling to the ground. The distance from the climber to the last belay point must not exceed a certain distance to ensure safety.

Wedges were developed in the UK in the 1950s. At that time, simple machine nuts with threaded loops were used first. These first prototypes were further developed to today's clamping wedges.

Before the 1970s, rock climbing was mainly used in the USA . Other securing devices such as clamping wedges , tricams or clamping devices were largely unknown or not yet available. Likewise, there were no formal variants within the climbing sport, because according to today's term, climbing was only traditional . Only in the 1980s, when sport climbing spread across Europe, was it differentiated.

The development of belay devices has advanced enormously since the 1970s and made climbing safer and more dynamic. For traditional climbing, the clamping wedges , which can be fixed in smaller crevices and removed again after the tour, meant a great increase in the popularity and safety of the sport. The following removable safety equipment is currently available in traditional climbing:

If a single person climbs solo , the safety equipment used is only collected again on the descent. If it is a rope team , the following people in the top rope can take everything with them.

Carabiners and slings are used as belay equipment in traditional as well as sport climbing to connect the rope to the belay devices in the rock. In this way, the rope catches the falling person because it transfers half the force to the person securing it according to the rope pull principle . In traditional climbing nowadays only fixed points are required by e.g. B. Set normal hooks if there are too few gaps on the route where you can attach adequate, alternative securing devices. A climber is assumed to have a bad style who installs new normal bolts or bolts on an existing route that was previously possible without these fixed points.

Many of the rock hooks and screws that still exist on older routes are in poor condition due to environmental factors. This aging process of the securing points occurs mainly in areas by the sea, as the salt in the air causes the metal to oxidize or rust more quickly. Generally speaking, fixed points or equipment that is obviously rusting should no longer be used.

Most used knots

In traditional climbing, certain knots are needed for different situations, e.g. B. when building a fixed point or to involve the climber.

  • The weaving line , or mast throw, is often used when setting up a fixed point when the climber secures himself to an hourglass .
  • With the butterfly knot , the climber can attach himself to a hanging rope.
  • The half-mast is usually used for belaying (without belay device).
  • The Slipstek can be used to secure ledges or trees while climbing.
  • The rope can be attached to trees or climbing harness with the anchor hitch .
  • The double figure eight knot can be used for fixed points outside the actual climbing route.
  • The ribbon loop knot helps to connect two loops or belt straps.
  • The double bulin knot is used to tie in or to attach to a fixed object.

fixed point

A fixed point; In this picture all three parts are in the same rock crack. In general, if possible, belay equipment should be placed in different formations to protect against rock breakout.

When the lead climber has reached the end of the route, he has to set up a fixed point in order to be able to bring the climbing climber up safely as well. Such a fixed point consists of several redundant components for security.

  • Safety equipment or devices: A fixed point typically consists of a minimum of two, but better three to four parts (e.g. clamping wedges or rock hooks). These must be placed so that the failure of a single part does not affect the entire system.
  • Belt slings and ropes are used to connect the safety devices in such a way that they are loaded or tensioned to the same extent.
  • Carabiners connect the safety devices anchored in the rock with the rope or sling . Moreover, which is backup device with a karabiner in the belt mounted.

In some cases it happens that the following passages become too difficult, the physical condition is no longer sufficient or the visibility does not allow a further ascent. These situations can result in abandoning the attempt and rappelling back to the ground. For this purpose, a fixed point and, if necessary, additional safeguards are set to ensure a safe descent. These fuses therefore remain in the rock.

Typical process

  • The lead climber attaches his equipment to the climbing harness.
  • The lead climber ties himself in with a figure eight knot.
  • The climbing climber ties in at the other end.
  • The climber secures the lead climber with a belay device or a half-mast .
  • The lead climber climbs up and sets the first belay. This first safety device should not be able to fall out during further climbing.
  • The lead climber uses an express set to connect the rope to the first belay point.
  • The lead climber climbs further up and sets further safety devices until the end of the route.
  • The lead climber builds a fixed point and attaches himself with a screw carabiner.
  • The second climber removes the lead climber from the safety device.
  • The lead climber pulls the rope up so far that the person below can just tie himself in.
  • The lead climber now secures the second climber and gives him a sign to be on the safe side.
  • The second climber confirms his readiness.
  • In the following ascent, the lower climber takes the safety devices with him again.

Types of rock

Some types of rock are suitable for traditional climbing, depending on their condition due to environmental influences. Some examples are sandstone , granite, and limestone .

Climbing ethics

While it can be argued that traditional climbing is more dangerous than sport climbing, it nonetheless leaves little or no mark on the rock face. This largely preserves the appearance and natural condition of the wall. Sport climbing, on the other hand, requires bored rock hooks that remain in the rock for a long time. These routes are more common in general and especially in the lower levels of difficulty . In the climbing scene, the differences and effects of the two styles are regularly debated.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b John Long: How to Rock Climb! 4th edition, Falcon Publishing, 2004, ISBN 0-7627-2471-4 , p. 168.
  2. ↑ Essay by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost
  3. ↑ Nut's Story: 2001, a Nut Odyssey. In: www.needlesports.com. Retrieved May 26, 2017 (English).