Double bowline
| Double bowline | |
|---|---|
|
|
| Type | loop |
| application | Rope knot |
| Ashley No. | 1080-1082 |
| strength | 56% |
| Synonyms | Double bulin, soft eye |
| English | Bowline on the Bight (not: double bowline) |
| List of nodes | |
The double bowline - also double bulin - is a knot that is used for roping up in mountain sports .
history
Until the early 1970s, the simple bulin was considered a reliable rope knot when climbing . Due to several fatal accidents, because it can unintentionally come off when the ring is loaded, it fell into disrepute. In the 1990s, the double Bulin found its way into the climbing scene. Today it is one of the two rope knots recommended by the DAV, along with the figure of eight .
application
When climbing , the double bowline serves as a tie-in knot on the climbing harness . It is easy to open even after frequent or heavy falls. However, the knot pattern is not as easy to check for correct execution as that of the figure eight knot . The figure of eight is therefore recommended as the standard rope knot.
When building a stand with the help of a (sewn) sling , the double bowline is also used. Instead of a blind stitch loop , it then forms the "soft eye" in which the HMS carabiner can be attached.
The double bowline was previously used as a kind of "chest strap". However, it is only suitable for securing if it can be secured from above. For example, when descending into a pit, or secured on a dinghy rope or falling when climbing the mast of a sailing ship. One loop is placed around the chest and the other diagonally around the chest and over one shoulder. It is important that the knot is tight so that the person to be belayed cannot slip out.
Knot
Placed
This variant can also be tied in the middle of the rope. Only this method is also possible for placing a soft eye in a sling.
The end of the rope is used twice as a replacement for a chest strap. The loop should reach roughly from the shoulder to the floor. Then an eye is placed in the loop with the double rope . The long loop is put just through the eye so that two loops emerge from the loop. The pushed through end forms a small bay that is slipped over the two loops and the entire knot. The knot is tightened on the two loops.
eye
Put the end through the eye
Put the bay over the whole knot
finished
Plugged in
Bowline
follow in parallel
finished
The end of the rope is pulled through the loops of the climbing harness and tied into a loose bowline . The free end should be about 70 cm long. With this, the loop and the knot are followed again in parallel. The double bowline must be carefully checked and tightened.
Alternatives
- As a tie-in knot , the figure eight is considered the worldwide standard.
- As mountains help in shipping and in rescue a lifting loop or bowline used.
- A seat sling is better used as a substitute for a "seat belt" .
- The double rescue sling is also suitable as a makeshift chest strap .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Rope knot: figure eight versus double bulin. In: Mountaineers. Retrieved August 12, 2019 .
- ↑ know-how on the mountain. essentials about equipment, planning and rope technology, DAV-Summit-Club, Munich 2010, p. 41 u. 47
- ↑ Peter Plattner: The "soft eye" . In: mountaineering . ( PDF [accessed July 30, 2015]).