New look

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Model in New Look costume, 1950

New Look ( English for new look ) describes the prevailing style in women's fashion in the post-war period and especially the 1950s. Characteristic was a narrow waist and narrow shoulders - thus an emphasis on the breasts - as well as a wide, calf-length skirt .

The term was originally coined in the USA by the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar , Carmel Snow, especially for the fashion line propagated by Christian Dior from the spring of 1947 , while Dior himself called it Ligne Corolle ("calyx line") because the silhouette made it look like a upturned blossom reminded. The width of the skirts was emphasized by one or more petticoats worn underneath .

The New Look represented a departure from the more rational and material scarcity fashion of the war years and sought the connection to the luxury of the pre-war years - despite its name, it was less innovative than rather reactionary. The ideal of women changed back from an emancipated working girl to a princess and lady. The dresses were decidedly unsuitable for everyday use and impractical, and more suitable as elegant evening wear (which of course did not prevent the New Look from having an influence on everyday fashion). The production of the clothes required a great deal of work and material (cloth). At the same time, the New Look made Paris a fashion metropolis again.

literature

  • Ingrid Loschek: Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon , Reclam, Stuttgart 2011, ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , p. 387
  • Kathryne Hennessy (Ed.): Fashion - 3000 years of costumes, trends, styles, designers . Dorling Kindersley, Munich 2013, ISBN 978-3-8310-2389-9 , pp. 316f.