Schappe

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In silk processing, the inferior fibers that arise in the worsted yarn process are referred to as Schappe or Schappeseide or Florettseide . Silk is a fiber from the cocoons of the silkworm, while the middle cocoon layers provide the high-quality grège thread, the Schappeseide comes from the outer layers of the cocoon.

Other names, some of which are outdated and rarely used, are Crescentin , Gallettam , Galtet and Fantasie .

As Strazza one called yarns of the waste generated in the Schappeseidenbereitung.

Procedure

In addition to the high-quality Grè thread that is created when unreeling the middle cocoon parts, the thread parts that the silk moth spins around the cocoon as a holder (watt silk), as well as those of the foil from the outer, irregularly spun cocoon layers (flock silk), are also processed. This “waste” makes up around two thirds.

The silk material is usually freed of residues in the corresponding silk-growing countries (boiling, washing, drying, knocking, tearing / opening) and then reaches the European spinning mill in the form of slivers . The combs are cotton wool-like ribbons made of 50 to 250 mm long and parallel fibers that are created by combing the cleaned fiber material several times.

In the spinning mills, the tops are placed on the spreader , a lay-up machine in which the tops are combined to form a coherent wad of about three meters in length (cup). The studs are then drawn several times on the high-drafting section (intersecting) until a uniform band is created. On the pulling machine or spindle bench (flyer), the tape is drawn and refined again and the now thin tape is given a slight twist and thus cohesion. The roving produced in this way is stretched and twisted again until the shackle yarn has the desired strength.

Appearance and use

Schappen yarns are smooth, regular and have a slight sheen. Depending on the intended use, they are twisted further. The portion of the shorter fibers (10–50 mm long) that occurs at the beginning of the combing process is processed into bourette yarn and then into bourette silk. Since the fiber length is shorter here than in the production of Schappetarn and residues from defective cocoons and pupae are processed, the thread gets an irregular appearance. Schappen silk yarns are often used as machine sewing floss.

Web links