worsted
As a worsted yarn is referred to that of the sliver of wool (so-called worsted wool) or other fine animal hair, of synthetic fibers (in particular of polyester - and Polyacrynitrilfasern) or mixtures of these fibers is prepared by the worsted spinning process. The yarns made from the top of cotton are not counted as worsted yarns.
Manufacture and description
The top of the wool is created by combing the raw wool, whereby the short pieces of fiber and impurities (knobs, neps, vegetables, so-called noils ) are removed from the raw material. The fibers are aligned evenly and parallel by repeated pre-stretching, warping, if necessary post-combing and mixing. The sliver is then processed further on special spinning machines and receives its spinning and possibly its twisted twist in a further process step .
The minimum length of the processed wool fibers is 60 millimeters. For soft worsted yarns, fibers of 100 to 125 mm in length are usually used, for hard worsted yarns 125–160 millimeters. According to DIN 60410 are the commercially available intricacies of simple worsted between 105 dtex (Nm 96) and 10,000 dtex (Nm 1), said fineness between 125 dtex (Nm 80) and 2000 dtex are used (Nm 5) frequently. The worsted yarns are usually spun in the Z direction, single-stage twists in the S direction.
Worsted yarns are firm, smooth and even yarns that have little hairiness, i.e. little protruding fiber ends. They are mainly used as threads, especially in high-quality Oberbe clothing ( knitting - and woven ), stocking products , but also increasingly in highly developed functional textiles or home textiles used.
See also
- Half worsted yarn
- Carded yarn as a contrast to worsted yarn
- Vigoureux (printed worsted yarn)
- Gabardine (example of a worsted fabric)
Worsted yarn spinning mills in Germany
- Worsted yarn spinning mill (Bietigheim-Bissingen)
- Worsted yarn spinning mill (Kaiserslautern) (closed in 1981)
- Augsburg worsted spinning mill for short AKS
- Zwickauer Kammgarn GmbH for short ZKS (Peppermint Group)
- Worsted yarn spinning mill (Leipzig) (closed in 1951)
- Worsted yarn spinning mill Hampe in Helmstedt, a spinning mill and dye works that emerged from a yarn trading company founded in 1823 and closed in 1993
- Worsted yarn spinning mill Meerane (closed in 1990; Heinrich Schneider & Sohn until 1945; founded in 1882)
- Worsted yarn spinning mill Stöhr & Co.AG in Leipzig and later in Rheydt - Odenkirchen (today Mönchengladbach )
- Johann Wülfing & Sohn (founded in Lennep in 1674, closed in 1996)
- Vöslauer worsted yarn factory (closed 1970)
- Sächsische Wollgarnfabrik Leipzig (closed in 1990)
- North German wool combing & worsted spinning mill (Delmenhorst, closed in 1981)
- Schoeller spinning group (Hard at Lake Constance, Bregenz, Křešice in the Czech Republic)
- Gera-Greizer worsted spinning mill (Gera 1890, from 1949 VEB worsted yarn spinning mill Gera, closed in 1990)
- Worsted yarn spinning mill Wernshausen (closed in 1992)
literature
- Worsted-half-worsted woolen yarn . In: Dietmar Fries: Spinning technology , training aids, teaching aids. Volume 67, Total Textile Working Group , Eschborn 1996, ISBN 3-926685-73-5 .
- Bernhard Schwabe, Horst Ullmann: Technology and machines for worsted and carded yarn spinning . Technical University of Karl-Marx-Stadt , Section: Textile and Leather Technology, Field of Knowledge: Chemical Fibers and Thread Technology, Karl-Marx-Stadt [Chemnitz] 1981.
Individual evidence
- ↑ DIN 60410: worsted yarn , January 1983.
- ↑ Fabia Denninger, Elke Giese: Textile and Model Lexicon . Vol. 1, AK. 8th, completely revised and expanded edition. Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2006, p. 349.
- ↑ Anton Schenek: Encyclopedia yarns and threads: properties and production of textile yarns . Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2006, ISBN 3-87150-810-1 , p. 250.
- ↑ Burkhard Wulfhorst: Textile manufacturing processes. An introduction . Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich / Vienna 1998, ISBN 3-446-19187-9 , p. 100.
- ↑ Author collective: Textile fibers . Fachbuchverlag, Leipzig 1967, p. 429
- ^ Fritz Ernst Döhler: Demolition of the worsted spinning mill. Fachbuchverlag, Leipzig 1955, p. 13.
- ↑ Collective of authors: Handbuch der Textilwaren 1 . Fachbuchverlag, Leipzig 1972, p. 169.
- ↑ Worsted yarn spinning mill Meerane. In: industrie-kultur-ost.de. Retrieved September 1, 2018 .