Eyelash extensions
An eyelash extension is a cosmetic method in which one or more eyelashes made of synthetic or natural hair are applied to a natural eyelash with a special adhesive in order to enhance the fullness and length of the natural lash line.
history
Long eyelashes were already considered a beauty feature in ancient times and later in early Rome. In the literature, however, eyelash lengthening was first mentioned in 1879, when James D. McCabe, in the Laws of Etiquette section of the National Encyclopedia of Businesses and Societies, found that eyelashes can grow longer if you keep their tips regularly a pair of scissors. The earlier you start this process, the more effective it is. This recommendation was in line with the Victorian ideal of promoting natural beauty rather than resorting to faster, man-made solutions.
Other beauty books like My Lady's Dressing Room (1892) by Baronne Staffe and Beauty's Aids or How to be Beautiful (1901) by anonymous author Countess C also state that trimming eyelashes along with the use of tricogenic pomade promotes eyelash growth . The tricogenic pomade was generally thought to have a hair-lengthening effect. In A Practical Guide for the Perfumer (1868) there is even a recipe mixture with nerve poison, veal fat, nut butter and the like. a., the use of which, however, led to damage to health. Countess C also suggested that lashes get extra length and strength if washed with a mixture of water and walnut leaves every night.
In 1882, in the British publication Truth , Henry Labouchère reported for the first time a - albeit drastic - method of applying false eyelashes. “The Parisians figured out how to make false eyelashes. I'm not talking about the vulgar and well-known trick of darkening the edge of the eye with all sorts of dirty compositions, or the artistic process of doing it inside the eyelid. No, they actually pull a fine needle with dark hair through the skin of the eyelid and create long loops. I was told it was painful. After the process, a wonderful dark pony covers the coquette's eyes. ”This technique was performed without anesthetics, possibly with a little cocaine to relieve pain, and was very uncomfortable.
A similar report, titled Irresistible Eyes Can Be Made by Hair Transplantation, appeared in the July 6, 1899 issue of The Dundee Courier, which also described this painful method of lengthening eyelashes.
Today's artificial eyelashes were first invented, patented and manufactured in 1902 by the German-born hair specialist and well-known inventor Karl Ludwig Nessler . From 1903 he began selling artificial strip eyelashes made from human hair in his London salon, which were attached to fish skin - also known as isinglass - made from fish swim bladders. Later versions of his striped lashes, known as Nestolashes, came in brown, dark brown, and black. He used the profits from the sales of the eyelash extensions to fund his next invention, the permanent wave machine (commonly known as perm ). The permanent wave uses heat and chemicals to break and shape the cross-linking bonds of the hair structure.
The first adhesive band eyelashes were patented in 1911 by the Canadian Anna Taylor.
Although already available at the beginning of the 20th century, false eyelashes only became popular in the interwar years. The likely reason for this was Hollywood's rise to be the center of the US film industry. It was around this time that another well-known inventor of eyelash extensions, Max Factor , a Polish cosmetics entrepreneur, founded Max Factor & Company. The global film industry enabled make-up artists like Max Factor and the Westmore Brothers to spread their visions of glamor around the world. Women who wanted to mimic the eyes of movie stars like Greta Garbo could use mascara , but they also had the option to apply false eyelashes from vendors like Nestlé-le Mur or Max Factor.
In 2008, a Korean company started manufacturing products that became popular there as semi-permanent eyelashes. Their processes for making eyelash extensions have been adopted by similar companies, especially in neighboring countries including China and Japan.
Procedure
Eyelash extensions are not to be confused with conventional false eyelashes, which are attached to the eyelid in strips or small bundles. Such strips are often found to be uncomfortable and irritating. Although they are easy to apply, the result is not waterproof and only lasts a short time. Eyelash extensions, on the other hand, are almost weightless and are applied one by one to the natural eyelashes with a waterproof eyelash adhesive, without touching the lid. They almost look like they have their own hair roots. The result is longer, thicker, and natural-looking lashes that are more comfortable to wear and last for weeks instead of just a day or two. This procedure is also called semi-permanent eyelash extensions because the application is not permanent, but in the best case only lasts until the natural eyelash falls out by itself. It is a natural process that eyelashes fall out every day, so that the full lash line becomes a little thinner from week to week. A refill every 2-3 weeks or a partial replacement every four weeks is required to maintain the fullness. When done correctly, natural eyelashes should not be damaged. It is important to find a trained professional who will maintain eyelash growth and reduce the risk of eye irritation.
Since the life cycle of an eyelash is around 3 months and it can only be pasted on if it has reached a minimum length after 4 weeks, the optimal lifespan of an eyelash extension is around 6–8 weeks.
An application that takes place while lying down takes - depending on the care and effort involved - between 30 minutes and 3 hours, depending on how many eyelashes are stuck on. The number of natural eyelashes per eye is around 100-300 pieces on average. The art of application consists in applying the longer, artificial eyelash to the shorter, natural eyelash, without touching the skin, but as close as possible to the edge of the eyelid. To do this, the lower third of the artificial eyelash is dipped into an eyelash adhesive containing cyanoacrylate and then placed on the natural eyelash in such a way that a connection is created over the entire length. This process is repeated on as many other lashes as possible until the desired density and length is achieved.
Eyelashes
The extensions can be made of various materials, as a rule, because of their high heat and material resistance , they are PBT fibers , such as those used for toothbrushes, for example. But natural eyelashes made from mink or horse hair can also be used.
The choice of eyelashes, of which there are a large number of different shapes and lengths, is of great importance for the durability and aesthetics of the application. There is no universal eyelash for all sizes. Rather, it depends on the shape and position of the eyes, the number of natural eyelashes present, their length and texture and, ultimately, on the person's ideas as to which eyelash is suitable for their purpose. Large suppliers therefore have over 400 different eyelashes in their range.
As a rule, brittle, delicate eyelashes are unable to bear thick or too long eyelashes. If the extension is too difficult, damage will occur (rupture, follicle damage, etc.). In order not to damage the growth of the eyelashes, it should be carefully considered how much weight and length the natural eyelash can be tolerated.
Eyelash extensions are available in different thicknesses, starting with 0.03 mm in diameter, up to about 0.25 mm and different lengths from 6 mm to about 17 mm
In addition to length and strength, a distinction is made according to shape, also called curl. These are the most common curls:
J-curl eyelashes are the straightest and most closely matched to the shape most women have. They are straight at the beginning and have a slight arch at the top. They are suitable when more length and volume is desired, but you don't see the fullness so much from the front, rather more in profile and with a lowered view.
B-Curl have a little more swing than the J-Curl, but less than the C-Curl. They come very close to the shape of natural eyelashes and are applied when the natural eyelashes are fairly straight.
C-curls are the most common, because they fit almost every natural eyelash and "open the eye". You already have a nice curve from the middle, so that the lash line looks impressive from the front.
D-Curl go strongly in the glamorous direction, as they are very strongly curved upwards. They are suitable when the appearance should come close to that of a doll. They do not last very long on very straight eyelashes, as the connection with the natural eyelash only runs over a short distance due to the strong curl.
D-curls are not suitable for deeper-set eyes, especially if they are longer than 12 mm, as the tips then touch the lid. This tickles and can cause irritation in the long run.
L-curl are also called Barbie eyelashes because they point upwards just behind the roots. Women with very straight eyelashes, for example from South America or the Far East, appreciate this type very much.
L-lift curls are directed upwards even more steeply than the L-curl. They are the best way to create the Barbie effect.
U-Curl are the most strongly curved eyelashes on the market and, as the name suggests, they are shaped like a "U". They are ideal for very strongly curved natural eyelashes. They are not particularly useful in everyday life. The longer they are chosen, the shorter they are, because the connection surface with the natural eyelash is very short here.
In addition to individual eyelashes, which are used for the so-called 1: 1 method (one extension per natural eyelash), there are so-called volume eyelashes for the fuller volume look, also called xD look or Russian volume look . These are small bundles of eyelashes that are connected to one another at the bottom. Depending on the number, they are also called Y-eyelashes or 2D, W-eyelashes or 3D, 4D, 5D or even 10D and more if they are connected to compartments with 10 individual eyelashes.
Training and certification
The application of eyelashes requires no training, but concentration, practice, dexterity, experience and routine. The technology is taught in cosmetics schools or in certain workshops run by specialist companies that issue appropriate certificates of participation. However, these are never recognized by official bodies. So far there is no recognized or standardized training. In order to offer eyelash extensions commercially, no proof of training is required in Germany. Therefore, this service is offered not only by commercial and cosmetic institutes, but also by hairdressers and mobile stylists. The necessary materials are freely available.
Individual evidence
- ^ The Library of Congress: The national encyclopædia of business and social forms, embracing the laws of etiquette and good society . Philadelphia, Chicago [etc.] The National publishing co, 1879, pp. 26 ( archive.org [accessed August 30, 2019]).
- ↑ "My Lady's Dressing Room"
- ^ "The Countess C-- (1901). Beauty's Aids or How to be Beautiful. Boston: LC Page & Company. Pp. 97–98. "
- ^ Writers in London in the 1890s. Retrieved August 30, 2019 .
- ^ "A Practical Guide for the Perfumer, 1868"
- ↑ "George Frederick Shrady and Thomas Lathrop Stedman (1882). Medical Record, Volume 22. p. 252 "
- ↑ "IRRESISTIBLE EYES MAY BE HAD BY TRANSPLANTING THE HAIR". The Dundee Courier, The Quack Doctor, July 6, 1899 "
- ^ A New or Improved Method of and Means for the Manufacture of Artificial Eyebrows, Eyelashes and the Like. British Patent GB000190218723A, filed August 26, 1902, granted November 6, 1902
- ↑ "ARTIFICIAL EYELASH. Anna Taylor, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, Serial No. 607,810. US994619, filed February 10, 1911 "
- ^ "Makeup Masters: The History of Max Factor". Edition May 24, 2017 "
- ↑ "Training manual and instructions for semi-permanent eyelash extensions, editor: XXL Lashes, 2016"