Perm
The term permanent wave (abbreviation: DW ) describes the chemical transformation process in which straight hair is waved or curled. Colloquially, a hairstyle with permed hair is simply referred to as a permanent wave. A permanent wave can be done professionally by a hairdresser in the salon, but there are also products for use at home.
Hair is deformed through a chemical reaction on the hair keratin. The cystine bonds in the hair keratin, which are responsible for mechanical strength, are broken by reduction with thioglycolic acid . The softened hair can now be brought into the desired shape using a curler. The disulfide bonds that ensure stability can be restored from the reduced sulfhydryl groups by oxidation with hydrogen peroxide . The hair now remains in the given shape.
history
1872 invented the Frenchman Marcel Grateau the crimp with a (previously used otherwise) corrugated iron (see also styling techniques # undulation ).
In 1906 Karl Ludwig Nessler invented the first permanent wave (hot wave) using chemical and thermal treatment, the permanent wave , which was patented in 1910. With her, strands of hair soaked in borax were twisted vertically on spiral curlers and individually heated with tongs. On October 8, 1906, the first electrically operated permanent wave device was presented in London.
In 1924 Josef Mayer (1881–1952) developed the so-called flat winding in Karlsbad . The first chemically created perm was introduced by Clark and Speakman in 1932. The disulfide bridges of the hair were split with sulfite so that it became malleable. This was followed by a heat treatment for shaping, with disulfide bridges again being formed.
In 1940 thioglycolic acid was discovered to reduce the disulfide bonds in hair keratin. The cold permanent wave or cold wave has been common since 1947 , in which the keratin of the hair is only chemically softened and reshaped. In the 1970s, the Afro look with extremely small frizzy locks was popular, the hair was not blow-dried, but air-dried. In the 1990s, perm was used to support hairdos. The air-dried perm experienced a brief high with coarse curls on long hair in the early 2000s. At the moment the perm is again in demand to support a hair dryer or in long hair, but it is nowhere near as widespread as it was in the 70s and 80s.
Short-term change in shape (acidic permanent wave with pH 6-6.9)
The hydrogen bonds of the hair keratin are broken by the action of water. This makes the hair elastic and malleable. With "blow-dry hairstyles" you first bring the damp hair into the desired shape and then allow the water to evaporate. However, the durability of hairdryers is low. The durability can be increased slightly with hair setting agents or hair varnishes.
| Important reducing agents |
 Sodium salt of thioglycolic acid. (Note: the presentations on top of each other are equivalent.) |
 Ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid. (Note: the presentations on top of each other are equivalent.) |
 Cysteamine, also called 2-mercaptoethylamine. (Note: the presentations on top of each other are equivalent.) |
 Cysteine without stereochemistry (top), natural L- cysteine with details of the ( R ) configuration (middle) and another form of presentation. |
Permanent change in shape (alkaline permanent wave with a pH value of 7.1-9)
The perm is done in two steps. For the first step, a reducing agent, a permanent wave agent, is required for the second step, an oxidizing agent, a fixing agent. Sometimes the hairdresser has to check the hair carefully in advance. Thin hair is more difficult to perm than thick hair.
The hair is first washed with a shampoo and treated with a care solution. Then small sections of hair are wound on curlers (up to 60 pieces). The hair is then wetted with the waving agent solution.
Permanent wave preparations are available as solutions, gels or aerosol foams. Mildly alkaline permanent waving products are very often used (neutral and more alkaline products are also known), they have a pH of 7.5 to 9 - ammonium hydrogen carbonate serves as a pH buffer - and contain around six to eleven percent thioglycolic acid . In such a solution the thioglycolic acid is present as an ammonium salt . Sulphites, cysteine or cysteine derivatives - such as cysteamine - are sometimes used for reduction. By opening the disulfide bridges , the natural protein structure of the hair is changed (“denatured”) and made malleable. The hair shrinks slightly in length but swells in diameter (up to 100%) and takes on the shape of the curler.
A permanent wave agent also contains emulsifiers and combability improvers (cationic polymers). Sometimes it is advisable to accelerate the transformation by supplying heat (through heat hoods). The application time of the corrugating agent solution is approx. 10–30 minutes.
Then the hair is washed out thoroughly with water and thus freed from the thioglycol solution. In order to fix this new shape of the hair , the disulfide bridges are closed again ("renatured") with the help of an oxidizing agent , usually hydrogen peroxide or atmospheric oxygen. The fixative is applied as a foam or liquid and rinsed out with water after an exposure time of 10 minutes. The hydrogen peroxide concentration of the fixative can be between one and twelve percent, and it also contains some phosphoric acid, so that the pH is between 2 and 4. However, hydrogen peroxide can also attack the hair pigment and lighten the hair. Alkaline peroxoborates should not attack the hair pigment.
The fixative also contains emulsifiers and combability improvers.
Finally, the curls can be treated with a conditioning preparation and then the hair is dried. Failures with permanent waves can occur if the exposure time or the temperature were chosen incorrectly, the curlers were too big or too small or the hair was not rinsed thoroughly enough.
Since curls are under internal tension, frequent hair washing, combing and brushing slowly return them to their original, uncurled shape, as this condition is more stable for the hair.
With a so - called counter wave , the opposite effect is also possible: You can temporarily straighten curly or wavy hair. The chemical means in this procedure remain the same, but the hair is not wrapped around curlers, but pulled straight (see also Conk ).
Pun
Radio Helsinki - in Graz - broadcast in its origins as a pirate station in the 1990s under the name Radio Perm .
See also
Web links
- Literature on perm in the catalog of the German National Library
- Literature on cold wave in the catalog of the German National Library
- Website in honor of the inventor - nessler-todtnau.de
- The history of perms - hairweb.de
Individual evidence
- ↑ Reinhard Welz: The technique of hair work and its use. Reinhard Welz Vermittler Verlag eK, 2004, ISBN 978-3-937805-50-4 , p. 215 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
- ↑ Reinhard Welz: The technique of hair work and its use. Reinhard Welz Vermittler Verlag eK, 2004, ISBN 978-3-937805-50-4 , p. 224 ( limited preview in the Google book search)
- ↑ Dermatocosmetics . Springer, 2009, ISBN 978-3-7985-1546-8 , pp. 201 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
- ^ Austrian National Library: ANNO, Neue Wiener Friseur-Zeitung, 1941-02-01, page 18. In: anno.onb.ac.at. February 1, 1941, accessed October 13, 2016 .
- ↑ a b c d e f Wilfried Umbach: Cosmetics - development, production and application of cosmetic products , 2nd edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1995.
- ^ Günter Vollmer , Manfred Franz: Chemical products in everyday life , Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1985.
- ↑ Wolfgang Legrum: Fragrances, between stink and fragrance , Vieweg + Teubner Verlag (2011) p. 165, ISBN 978-3-8348-1245-2 .
- ↑ Ullmanns Encyklopadie der technischen Chemie , 4th edition, Volume 12, pp. 442-443.