Hairdressing techniques
Hairdressing techniques are the basis for temporarily reshaping hair . In contrast to the perm , the hairstyle is always a relatively short-lived affair. The deformation disappears again because the hair, due to its hygroscopic properties, attracts moisture from the air and the hair's own weight "hangs up" the hairstyle.
Temporary hair reshaping is one of the most important hairdressing techniques and it largely follows fashion . The fashionable hair trends are seldom brand new; trends from the past are often taken up again and re-enacted. Past trends can come back into fashion at any time.
All hairdressing techniques can be traced back to a few basic knowledge, above all to the fact that hair can be deformed with the help of water and heat.
Undulation
The word undulation means "curl", it is from the French word onde derived ( "wave"). This means shaping the hair with a curling iron. The technique was invented around 1880 by the French Marcel Grateau . The curling hair iron (obsolete: Curling Iron ) was heated on the stove or over a fire and is comparable to today's curling iron.
Curling can be compared to ironing fabric. The hot iron gives the processed material the desired shape. It is well known that completely dry fabric is difficult to iron; the same applies to the curling of hair with a curling iron. Completely dry hair is difficult to undulate; it must still have a low, imperceptible moisture content. With curling, this low moisture content is removed from the hair with the hot curling iron and it is curled at the same time.
Reshaping hair with the help of heat is old. More than 2000 years ago, a curling iron, the calamister, was known in Greece as an aid for creating curls. The hair was wrapped around a pipe. A bronze rod heated in the fire was pushed into the tube. The slave who curled the hair was called Calamis. This is why the cane was called calamister.
Hair dryer wave
With a blow dryer , the hair is shaped with the hot air stream from the hair dryer . With a blow dryer, the hair is pulled into the desired shape with a comb or a brush and then shaped and dried at the same time using various types of blow dryers. When the hair is shaped by the hot air of the blow dryer, moisture is removed from the hair and the shape achieved is retained.
Loose curls, inwardly falling areas and ponies are shaped with the round brush and dried on it. To facilitate the various work steps, the air flow of the hair dryer can be changed using appropriate attachments.
Thin hair is particularly suitable for the blow dryer because it gets more volume. There are also good results with naturally waved or slightly permed hair. Shaping the hairstyle with the hairdryer results in soft, flowing hairstyle lines with a natural fall of the hair. For better durability and manageability of the hair with the blow dryer, there are special blow dryer lotions that give the hair a certain support and heaviness and make it easier to work with a comb and brush.
Hand-made water wave
Wet hair is easier to shape than dry hair. The hairdresser uses this fact with the so-called hand-held water wave. The water wave is formed with the hand and the comb. She gives flat lying waves. Naturally wavy or lightly permed hair is a favorable prerequisite. Heavily curled hair cannot be shaped with the water wave. Water loosens the salt bonds in the hair. In this state, the hair is shaped tightly for the desired hairstyle, that is, curled or curled. The drying results in a water removal; the salt bonds close again and give the hair a new shape. It is mainly a physical process. The deformation is reversed by moisture.
Hairstyles based on the water wave are largely set in their shape. It is therefore particularly important to visualize the finished hairstyle in every detail when inserting it, as changes are difficult to make after drying.
Hairstyles can be made in whole or in part using the water wave technique. Before actually laying the water wave, the natural fall of the hair must be determined and taken into account for the wave arrangement. The natural fall can be determined by pushing the wet, combed hair with the edge of your hand and observing the waveform that is emerging. A good wavy hairstyle is particularly determined by the perfectly crafted waves at the hairline. With the actual water wave it is important that the hair is combed correctly alternately to the left or right in the respective wave direction. The resulting wave crest, which is the turning point of the direction of combing, must always be held between the index and middle fingers of the left hand and pressed together. When forming the next wave, the fingers “jump” to hold the next wave crest. To attach the waves, water wave combs with wide spaces between the comb teeth and a shape corresponding to the head shape are used. Inserting the combs is a matter of practice. The outgoing tips are turned into papillots and fastened with clips .
The water wave had its peak in the first half of the 20th century. Back then there were several inventions that were supposed to make hair styling easier. In the 1930s, the "Eta cap" made of silk rubber was widespread. The chemical-technical factory ETA (Berlin) advertised it like this:
- “Adorable water waves. The 'Eta cap' forms in 15 minutes without any help. [...] The hair lies snugly in wonderful curls. [...] moisten the hair, put on the cap, and any desired wave shape can be made with the supplied wave layer. "
There are now special brackets ("wave riders" or "water wave brackets" made of metal or plastic) that simplify the procedure by simply clamping them onto the sections of hair that are pushed together or that are themselves bent in such a way that they create waves without additional pushing and shaping Bring hair - but this only results in small narrow waves.
Papilloting
When papillotizing, strands of hair are twisted into six-curls. Naturally falling, soft wavy and curly hairstyles can be achieved with different types of papillots . The word papillote comes from the French language and means "hair wrap". It is probably the oldest type of hairdressing technique.
Papillots can be made lying or standing. Lying papillots are needed for flat wavy hairstyles. This technique cannot be used on permed or very long hair. To make a papillote, the corresponding passé is neatly cut off and the strand of hair held flat towards the head is combed in the direction of the natural fall of the hair. With papillots that are later to be styled into waves, the natural direction of fall must also correspond to the direction of the first wave. This process, which one could call the “bedding” of the papillot, is extremely important because it determines the quality of the hairstyle.
Screw in with a volume roller
So that hair or the hairstyle gets a lot of volume, the hair is twisted with volume curlers ( curlers ). Today they are the most common means of hairdressing technology. There are many different types of volume curlers that differ in terms of surface and diameter. Volume curlers are untwisted and arranged according to the desired direction in which the hair falls. The larger the volume curler was, the more voluminous the hairstyle was.
In volume winding, the winders are wound flat on the head (flat corrugation technique). It is particularly important that the curlers are wound carefully and free of loops. The tips must not be kinked when twisting and the hair should be evenly distributed on the roller . The pin used to hold the curler in place must not press too hard on the scalp.
Backcomb
With the technique of teasing, more stance, volume and durability should be brought into the hairstyle. To do this, push the shorter hair to the roots with a hairpin comb . This can only succeed if there are enough different lengths in the hair through an thinning . Thinning is the thinning of the hair. The amount of hair is reduced for a softer, more natural fall of the hair. You have to make sure that the shorter hair is evenly distributed over the hair sections, otherwise there will be gaps. Hair cutting scissors, razor, blade filing and special thinning scissors are used for thinning . When teasing, you have to be careful not to get too much hair tangled at the roots, otherwise the shape of the hairstyle will be lost. Combing clean marks the end of teasing. To do this, the visible outer hairs are smoothed with a wide-toothed comb without combing out the toupee. The comb penetrates the area only a few millimeters.
Hair out
The purpose of hairdressing is to make a coherent, natural-looking hairstyle out of hand-laid water waves and papillots of various shapes. Waves of water placed by hand are loosened with a comb and brush after drying. Papilotted hairstyle sections are brushed out vigorously and then shaped into the desired hairstyle with the help of a comb and brush. Narrower wave brushes, round curling brushes and teasing brushes, which are covered with softer and harder bristles, are best for hairdressing. Hairstyles that have been pre-shaped with the help of the winding shaft or the curling iron are combed out similarly. In modern hairstyle design, hair removal plays a secondary role. Blow-dryer hairstyles and air-dried hairstyles already follow the natural fall of the hair when they are created and often make the final treatment of hairstyling superfluous.
literature
- Hans W. Kern: The technique of hair work and its use: plait, braid, curls, transformation, wig, toupee, tambouring, fontage, chignon . Reinhard Welz Vermittler Verlag eK, Mannheim 2004.
- Karsten Diekmann, Petra Jany, Hanna Lipp-Thoben, Dieter Lück: Hairdressing specialist . 5th edition. Wiesbaden 2005, ISBN 3-519-45700-8 , pp. 172–185 ( online in Google Book Search).
- Hermann Rosenberger, Karl H. Riedel, Heinz Clasen: The new hairdressing book . Austrian commercial publisher, Vienna 1988.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, Das neue Friseurfachbuch , p. 172.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, Das neue Friseurfachbuch , p. 173.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 173.
- ↑ http://www.hairweb.de/historie-wellewellen.htm
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 173.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 175.
- ↑ Hans W. Kern: The technique of hair work and its use , p. 8.
- ↑ Marcel Stein: Do it yourself: become your own hairdresser! 2005, p. 67.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 194.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 175.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 176.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 177.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 177.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 195.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 177.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 178.
- ^ Advertisement in: Deutscher Hausschatz , Verlag Friedrich Pustet , April 1933, p. 246.
- ↑ Trendfrisuren.eu ( Memento from March 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ).
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 179.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 180.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 183.
- ^ Diekmann, Jany, Lipp-Thoben, Lück, Friseurfachkunde , p. 115.
- ^ Diekmann, Jany, Lipp-Thoben, Lück, p. 118.
- ^ Diekmann, Jany, Lipp-Thoben, Lück, p. 97.
- ^ Diekmann, Jany, Lipp-Thoben, Lück, p. 118.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, Das neue Friseurfachbuch , p. 184.
- ^ Constanze Niederhaus: Technical language in textbooks , Waxmann Verlag, Münster 2004. P. 59.
- ↑ Rosenberger, Riedel, Clasen, p. 185.