Renaissance and Reformation clothing fashion
The 16th century, the age of the Renaissance and the Reformation and the time of spiritual change, also brought about a change in costume. The costume should no longer enclose the body tightly, but allow comfortable movement and, in contrast to earlier times, appear free and dignified at the same time.
The model was the traditional dress of the Landsknechte with its features of slitting and feeding. The main items of clothing for men around 1530 were doublets , trousers, scarfs and berets . On the doublet there were slits on the chest, on the back, but especially on the sleeves, either everywhere or only partially on the elbow and upper arm; but while the shirt of the doublet peeked out through the slits, the trousers, which were also slit, and especially the wide thigh trousers that had appeared at this time to cover the nakedness, were lined with a brightly colored, mostly silk fabric.
Also the scabbard, which lost its sleeves completely or partially in the nobles and was only worn by citizens and especially by scholars with long, wide sleeves and was adorned with a collar made of other material (mostly fur) that fell down to the back, as well as the now wide rounded shoes (bear claws, duckbills, cow mouth shoes ) and the beret were provided with slits. With the help of the slit fashion, the costume became extremely colorful.
In addition, the stockings, now separated from the trousers, were often worn on one or both legs with wide vertical stripes in a colorful combination of colors (yellow, blue, red, white, etc.). The doublet, which was initially provided with a deep, pointed bib , was soon cut out in a square shape, so that the shirt that had left the neck free in the former case was also pushed up and encircled the neck with a frill . The cloak only lasted with the youth until the second decade of the sixteenth century, when it gave way to the Schaube completely.
The costumes of women also changed during the Reformation. The skirt was cut round or square at the chest and showed the shirt or an embroidered insert; but since 1530 it was more closed at the neck, as in the men's costume. The train got shorter, but the sleeves got longer and tighter so that they covered half the hand. In addition, the latter were either not slit, provided with a cuff, or provided with slits on the forearm or elbow, probably also cut across the armpit, elbow or both places and reattached so that the shirt bulged out .
As headgear the men wore the beret, which the mercenaries like to put on one ear in a flat shape and then fastened with a storm strap under the chin or on the calotte . The women wore the bonnet , since 1520 the calotte and when going out, the mercenary-style beret.
See also
- Spanish fashion
- Clothing fashion at the time of the Thirty Years War
- Clothing fashion at the time of Louis XIV.
- Rococo clothing fashion
- Revolutionary and empirical fashion
literature
- Jacqueline Herald: Renaissance dress in Italy 1400–1500. Bell & Hyman, London 1981, ISBN 0-7135-1294-6
