beret
A beret (in Switzerland also Béret [ berɛ ]) is a flat, round or square head covering of felt , wool knitting , fabric , velvet or lined silk without screen or brim . During the period of its creation, in the 15th century , the word was from the Middle Latin barretum / birretum borrowed. Originally the beret was a symbol of educated classes. The biretta has the same root, but today it has a name and use in the clergy.
history
The word barretum / birretum has its origin in the Latin birrus "short cape with hood". It is believed that the origin of the word birrus is in Celtic . In Irish , the word bai read has been preserved for this.
The beret made by the beret maker has been known in European fashion since the 15th century and was originally worn as a symbol of educated classes. Through the nobility , the beret became a fashion piece popular across Europe among the bourgeoisie and the peasant class. With the advent of new hat shapes in the course of the 16th century, especially in Spain, which was then style-defining, the beret was slowly pushed out of fashion again by 1600. The beret, along with other hat shapes and helmets, was a very popular military headgear among the Landsknechts , who also emerged in the late 15th century . The shape and design were not bound by any guidelines and were only based on the taste of the wearer.
Embroidery, agraffes , strings of pearls (only among the nobility) or feathers (such as the mercenaries ) were often used as beret jewelry . The combination of gown and beret corresponds to the official academic attire and is now mainly worn in Anglo-American countries at graduation ceremonies, but recently again in Germany.
After its end as a fashion item, the beret was used as the headgear of peasant populations. The beret in the shape of the beret , which is part of the shepherd's costume in the mountainous Pyrenees , became very famous .
In Germany, the beret experienced a brief rebirth as a politically motivated piece of clothing in the free-thinking middle class with the wars of liberation . At that time it belonged to the so-called old German costume , which wanted to be based very freely on the time of Martin Luther . After the Congress of Vienna, this clothing fashion was considered so provocative and seditious by the resurgent German princes and kings that it was partially banned. As part of this costume, the beret is still part of the batch clothing of some student associations .
15th century prince's beret ( Federico da Montefeltro )
Martin Luther in the robes of a theology professor, 1529
Student in Paris, 1578 ( Francis de Sales )
Beret by an artist at the end of the 19th century ( Paul Cézanne )
Beret, late 19th / early 20th century ( Auguste Rodin )
Che Guevara, Guerrillero Heroico
You can find berets today:
- in the military and, based on this, partly also in the police, customs , THW and fire brigade; see beret (uniform)
- in the churches as part of the official costume (then also B i rett); see beret (church)
- in migratory birds (since the 1920s) and scouts (since the 1960s)
- for academics , when a gown is worn; see doctoral hat
- with the judges of the Federal Court of Justice , the Federal Constitutional Court and the other federal courts in Germany (with the exception of the Federal Patent Court ) as well as with judges and public prosecutors in Austria
Fashionable headgear at Tana Schanzara
See also
literature
- Jutta Zander-Seidel: Textile household items, clothing and house textiles in Nuremberg from 1500–1650. Deutscher Kunstverlag, Munich 1990, ISBN 3-422-06067-7
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Duden: The dictionary of origin , Verlag Bibliographisches Institut & FA Brockhaus AG, Mannheim 1989, ISBN 3-411-20907-0 , p. 63 f.
- ^ Norbert Nail, Joachim Göschel: About Jena: The riddle of a place name: old and new articles , Franz Steiner Verlag 1999, ISBN 3515075046 , p. 90