Node width

As a node length of the inside diameter is generally a node , respectively. The knot width is particularly important in climbing ropes as a measure of the knotability and, more generally speaking, of the flexibility or stiffness of a rope.

For testing and comparison purposes, the knot width of the overhand knot is measured in climbing ropes with a defined load. For dynamic ropes, the measurement is carried out in accordance with European standard EN 892 after a one-minute load on the knot or rope with 10  daN (approx. 10 kg ) and subsequent relief to 1 daN. Given as a multiple of the rope diameter, the node width gives a factor that represents a measure of the relative stiffness of a climbing rope. In product information on climbing ropes, this factor is usually given briefly as the "knot size" (also known as "knotability" or "knotability factor"):

• the higher the value, the higher the stiffness and the worse the knotability
• the lower the value, the higher the flexibility and the better the knotability.

For dynamic climbing ropes , the EN 892 standard requires a knot width of 1.1 or less. Such ropes with a small knot width in relation to the rope diameter are suitable for frequent knots. Its flexibility makes it easier for climbing ropes passing the rope through backup - or descenders , and by intermediate anchors at Vorst own .

For static climbing ropes , the EN 1891 standard requires a knot width of 1.2 or smaller. Static ropes are at a lower Elasticity designed to and therefore by design stiffer. They are preferably used for ascent on the fixed rope in combination with ascenders and for abseiling combined with semi-automatic belay devices or special abseiling devices.