Crinoline fashion
The time of the crinoline fashion from 1842 to around 1870 is to be regarded as a continuous epoch, the beginning of which is marked by the introduction of the crinoline . The petticoat initially consisted of fabric reinforced with horsehair and replaced the previously common wearing of several fabric petticoats. This gave the skirt a dome shape, which determined fashion until the 1860s. The silhouette actually goes back to the hoop skirts common in the middle of the 16th century , which had already reappeared more and more in the first half of the 18th century. Were still considered hat barge and Kapott date; in summer it could also be a wide-brimmed straw hat (see Florentine hat ). Compared to the Biedermeier period, the hairstyles were styled much more simply into a neck knot (chignon) with corkscrew curls on the side.
The decorations on the clothes were still limited around 1840, perhaps some embroidery, pleats and tucks at the waist. Over time, however, the surface finish in the form of tips and flounces increased again. The shoulders were narrow and the half sleeves ended in lace cuffs. The increasingly obvious resemblance to the hoop skirt dresses around 1750 and the often processed colored silk fabrics also gave the fashion of this time the nickname "Second Rococo", which is already used in the arts and crafts. Mantillas as well as Viennese or cashmere scarves also contributed to the lively appearance.
During this time, men's fashion became monotonous in terms of color and shape. The cylinder, common in Biedermeier, was, like the tailcoat, only to be seen on festive occasions. Instead, they wore dark-colored jackets with stripes or plaids; only the west remained colorful at first. Blinding white collars and cuffs were important. As a hat, the stiff bowler hat replaced the top hat in everyday life.
literature
- Bert Bilzer: master painters fashion ; Georg Westermann Verlag, Braunschweig 1961, p. 77.
- Elisabeth Siewert : Unforgotten people. A novel from the crinoline era. S. Fischer Verlag , Berlin 1911.