Oliver Perry-Smith
Oliver Perry-Smith (born October 11, 1884 in Philadelphia , † May 13, 1969 ) was an American mountaineer.
Life
Oliver Perry-Smith was born in Philadelphia on October 11, 1884. He first came to Dresden in 1902 and became a famous climber. He joined the climbing club "Schwarzer Kamin", which also included men like Rudolf Fehrmann , with whom he quickly became friends.
In Saxon Switzerland , he became famous for the first ascent of some important peaks, such as the Schrammtorwächter (difficulty VI) and the Kanzelturm (VI) in 1905 and the Teufelsturm (VIIb) a year later, which was then the most difficult climbing route in the world. He also succeeded in the first ascent of some climbing routes that are still popular today, such as the Spannagelturm Perrykante (VIIb) and the Falkenstein Südriss (VIIa) in 1913. In the same year he also climbed the piano (VIIa) and Perryriss (VIIb) routes on the Daxenstein (all ratings according to the Saxon difficulty scale ). He achieved his most famous first ascent during a stay in the Alps in South Tyrol in 1908. Together with Rudolf Fehrmann, he climbed the Fehrmann intersection (V-) on the Campanile Basso (Guglia di Brenta) (rating according to the UIAA difficulty scale ). Although the name suggests otherwise, the route was advanced by Perry-Smith alone.
After the outbreak of the First World War , Oliver Perry-Smith returned to the USA in 1914 . After that he never visited Saxony again.
By the way
In addition to climbing, Perry-Smith was also a successful skier and jumper. In 1914 he won the Austrian Ski Championships , where he was victorious in both jumping and cross-country skiing .
In 1907 Perry-Smith was admitted to the Schloss Sonnenstein sanatorium for about three months after threatening several people with a gun and demolishing furniture and household appliances in a fit of rage in Postelwitz and Bad Schandau .
Perryriss
When his alleged ascent of the Perry crack was doubted by others, he spontaneously decided to climb the route again and wrote “Perry” on the rock in large letters, which is still legible today.
Individual evidence
- ^ The championship of Austria in skiing in: Illustrated Österreichisches Sportblatt from February 14, 1914
- ↑ I am a mountaineer! Get me out of here! , Dresdner Latest News from June 10, 2013
literature
- J. Monroe Thorington: Oliver Perry Smith: Profile of a Mountaineer . Journal of American Alpine Club, 1964. ( Digitized ; PDF; 1.7 MB)
Web links
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Perry-Smith, Oliver |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | American climber |
| DATE OF BIRTH | October 11, 1884 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Philadelphia |
| DATE OF DEATH | May 13, 1969 |