Smoker's dresser

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Raw European Muskrat (leather side)
Tailored European muskrat (hair side)
In the 18th century, the furrier's utensils mainly consisted of tools for trimming fur

The tobacco dresser , Austrian rough goods dresser , or fur dresser or simply dresser is busy in the tobacco industry with the initial processing of the raw hides of fur animals. His work corresponds roughly to that of the tanner in leather processing.

history

Beginning in the 17th to 18th centuries, the profession of smokers' dressmaker split off from that of furrier . This specialization increased rapidly after the invention of the fur sewing machine before 1900, and the increase in fur sales made possible by it. In the 19th century in Germany the skins were actually only tanned by dressing shops, which soon specialized further, on the one hand in individual skin types, on the other hand as a fur refiner with the further treatment of the skins after the dressing, making the skins usable.

In Germany, most of the tobacco finishing and processing companies settled around the fur center in Leipzig's Brühl and remained there until the end of the Second World War . In 1929 , dressmakers organized in the German clothing workers association were employed in and around Leipzig in 1880 . With the emerging fur boom in West Germany, many companies moved to there, some in the vicinity of a new fur trade center around Frankfurt's Niddastrasse , again called "Brühl" in the fur industry. When fur processing shifted considerably to Asia with a simultaneous decrease in fur consumption in Germany and Europe, the number of companies decreased accordingly. In particular, the finishing and refinement of the main items, such as mink and fox at present, takes place mainly in Asia today. China in particular can look back on an old tradition in the craft. For the dressing and finishing of lambskins there are even larger, important European specialist companies outside Germany. As the remaining businesses became smaller, specialization was also reduced, so that the dresser is now often once again processing all types of fur , especially from local fur animals, in one hand.

job profile

Smokers 'dressers work in either commercial or industrial smokers' dressers. The skins are preserved by tanning agents and, through appropriate chemical and physical treatments, are given the condition required for the manufacture of fur products. Most European companies are no longer dedicated today and handle the bulk of the costs incurred furs such as mink , fox fur , rabbit fur , Nutriafelle , sheepskins , raccoon fur , rabbit skins , calf skins and wild pig rinds .

Fur dresser cutting thin ( Thorer & Co , Offenbach, 1977)

Coarse finishing operations are usually divided into a wet and a dry workshop. The tanning process is prepared in the wet workshop, the further processing and finishing of the skins takes place in the drying workshop. It depends on the size of the company where the smokers are used and what activities they do. The dressers then assess the raw hides and assemble them into lots for further, possibly different processing. They soak the pelts in tubs, barrels or reels filled with detergent solution to clean them of dirt and blood residue, and then remove the flesh and subcutaneous tissue that is still adhering to the skin. Smaller pelts such as mink, fox or raccoon are partially fleshed out with a circular knife, while large pelts such as sheepskins are fleshed out with a deflastering machine. Before tanning, the skins are pickled or peeled by placing them in a solution mixed with table salt and organic acids (especially formic acid, acetic acid) to loosen up the fiber structure.

Tanning is done with a tanning solution in barrels or drums, in which the skins usually remain for 12 to 24 hours. In order to give the tanned hide the desired appearance and the required properties, the smokers perform a number of chemical and mechanical treatments. Lubricate the skins, the leather cut to a uniform thickness and tension ( uses ) it to dry. Then they are cleaned with moist sawdust in a lauter drum (moist lumber), then tapped or stretched and stretched over a blunt knife (expelling) to make them soft and pliable. Then the leather side is sanded smooth on the sanding machine. Finally, comb and brush the hair that may have become matted by the dressing.

The duties of the smokers' dressers include all fur dressing work . The final product of finishing plants is that for kürschnerische ready further processing or for further refinement (dyeing, scissors, etc.) prepared Fur. Depending on the company, wages are paid as hourly wages, especially when preparing bulk goods, for certain activities as piece wages. In the past, in particular the seasonality of the craft by the unequal distribution of the year seizure-related skins often short-time work or an exemption in the "Quiet Time", characteristic of the profession, used to be the reward for the piecework system .

In 1965 it was said: The job of smokers' dressmaker has long been one of the best endowed manual jobs .

education

In Austria the apprenticeship as a rough goods judge is two years. In Austria, the foremen's school for professionals specializing in "technical chemistry" and "technical chemistry and environmental technology" (two years in evening classes) offers a further educational opportunity to achieve a higher educational qualification or higher qualification for graduates of this apprenticeship . The apprenticeship statistics for the years 2003 to 2012 show an apprentice rough goods judge for Austria for the year 2003.

The profession of smokers' dressmaker was first recognized in Germany in 1937. However, these training regulations expired on August 1, 1981. At the same time, the job of finishing was merged into the successor job of the fur finisher , recognized under the German Vocational Training Act (BBiG) , which combines the originally two professions of tobacco goods finisher and tobacco goods finisher in one. Today's 3-year training course as a tobacco product refiner, which is regulated throughout Germany, is currently only offered to a very limited extent in tobacco products preparation and processing companies.

See also

Web links

Commons : Fur Refiners  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

supporting documents

  1. ↑ a b Erika Rowald: The German tobacco product refinement a wage industry . Verlag Der Rauchwarenmarkt , Leipzig (inaugural dissertation, undated) approx. 1930/31, pp. 6–11, 72
  2. ↑ a b c d berufslexikon.at: Rauchwarenzurichterin, Rauchwarenzurichter Last accessed on May 15, 2013
  3. ^ Anton Ginzel: 60 years of tobacco product refinement . In: The fur industry . Verlag Die Pelzwirtschaft January 1, 1965, Berlin, pp. 44–55
  4. ↑ Anton Ginzel: Prerequisite for good fur finishing. In: Das Pelzgewerbe Vol. XVI / New Series, 1965 No. 3, p. 122
  5. ↑ berufe.net: Job description of Rauchwarenzurichterin / Rauchwarenzurichterin from October 31, 2005  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF; 98 kB) Last accessed on May 15, 2013@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / berufenet.arbeitsagentur.de  
  6. ↑ Federal Employment Agency: Pelzveredler / in Last accessed on May 15, 2013