Pulsnitzer gingerbread
Pulsnitzer Pfefferkuchen (protected name) are a traditionally handcrafted variant of gingerbread in different varieties that come from Pulsnitz in Saxony . It differs in principle from other gingerbread and honey cake variants in that the basic dough is stored for longer and matured before baking. The Pulsnitzer gingerbread was and is not a typical seasonal product. It is still produced all year round and sold in the town's pepper factories and at the regional markets.
Historical
Since January 1558, bakers in Pulsnitz have been able to bake gingerbread for their own needs. In a special privilege of those von Schlieben, landlords of Pulsnitz, it is determined, "... and an Ider master should pack as much rocking as the common need requires, the same gingerbread ...". As early as 1654 the name "Pfefferküchler" was mentioned for the production of the gingerbread. At the Dresden Striezelmarkt (Striezelmontag) the Pfefferküchler were represented with their goods from 1655. Around 1675 there was a so-called "gingerbread dispute" between the council of Kamenz and two Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchlers, who at that time were not allowed to offer their goods outside the city of Pulsnitz. This dispute could only be settled in 1677 through the mediation of the court lord Gotthold von Werthern. The Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchlers were again allowed to sell their gingerbread products on Maundy Thursday, Christmas Eve and at all annual markets in Kamenz.
A new dispute broke out as early as 1720 when the Dresden white bakers and peppercups complained to the Dresden City Council about the "foreign" Pfefferküchler from Pulsnitz and they wanted to be banned from selling their goods on the Dresden Striezelmarkt in the future. This should also apply to the Pfefferküchler, who already had the right to visit the Striezelmarkt. The council complied with this complaint in November 1720, but the ban should not apply to the Pfefferküchler from Pulsnitz. A Pfefferküchler from Kamenz raised an objection to this decision and called the elector's decision. On September 5, 1721, he finally allowed all Pfefferküchlers to continue visiting the Striezelmarkt by issuing an order: “We leave it to be. What was dißfalls brought and how it darmit time hero held still further at that. " .
When the Pulsnitz baker and cooker Tobias Thomas returned to his hometown from his wanderings from Thorn in Prussia (today Toruń in Poland) in 1745 with new ideas and recipes, the craft experienced a new upswing. Initially, there were bakers who also worked as gingerbread makers and made gingerbread as well as bread. From the middle of the 19th century you will find the traditionally typical Pfefferküchlerei in Pulsnitz, which exclusively produced gingerbread. On market days as well as at annual fairs, the pepper cakes and their products were regularly to be found in the surrounding towns and villages. One often traveled to Dresden, Chemnitz and Leipzig by horse and carriage. Some Pfefferküchler were represented with their products at numerous large industrial and commercial exhibitions as well as trade fairs. They received honors and award medals. Various images of the medals and prizes that were won often adorned house facades and shop windows. Two Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchler used to be purveyors to the court . As early as 1671, the council of Kamenz had the traditional New Year's pepper cake baked for the St. Marienstern monastery in Pulsnitz due to the lack of its own Pfefferküchler . In 1997 this old tradition was revived by the guild of the Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchler. According to an old tradition, the city of Pulsnitz is still called gingerbread city today.
Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchler
history
Artisans whose business is to bake gingerbread are called gingerbread makers or gingerbread bakers. Up until the middle of the 20th century, the terms "Pfefferküchler" and "Pfefferkuchen" were still widely used in German, including in regions where the term "Lebkuchen" has become established today. For example, in an advertising brochure from Nuremberg from 1906, in addition to "Lebkuchen", the product name "gingerbread" is also repeatedly used. In the past, gingerbreads were only baked with rye flour and were therefore considered to be the “most common”. Such gingerbreads, which were made from wheat flour, were called the “Nuremberg gingerbread” and differed from the other types. Here the darker variant of the flour was always preferred. The basic dough consisted of rye flour, honey and syrup. The honey and syrup were originally freed of impurities by boiling and skimming them in kettles.
Some Pfefferküchler boiled honey and syrup already mixed, depending on the recipe. In a gingerbread there were always many vessels with dough that were “stored” for different times. A strong “crushing tree” was necessary in every kitchen to knead the dough. The dough was worked through by subsequent time-consuming kneading with the hands. Since honey dough is lighter than syrup dough, the dough was often cut with a knife when kneading in order to achieve and check the desired evenly colored structure. After baking, a simple gingerbread variety was created without additional spices. A common way of making gingerbread was "drying". To do this, the gingerbreads were dried hard on slats and boards over the oven after baking. This pastry had an almost unlimited shelf life.
It was generally customary for the Pfefferküchler to join a guild. Many ordinances were based on the guild regulations from what was then Breslau. Whoever wanted to become a master in this trade had to report to the elder and present his apprenticeship and journeyman's certificate there. In addition, it had to be proven that he “hiked into the trade for three years, or therefore received a dispensation from Cammer” . The time that the supplicant had spent with the Royal Army and received an honest farewell for it was to be taken into account. The so-called masterpiece often consisted of baked goods with a value of up to 12 Reichstalers. Different "Thornsche varieties" at different prices, Nuremberg gingerbread, Bilderwerk (picture peppercake) were also called for. These pieces had to be made by the applicant in a local master kitchen under the supervision of the master and later “presented to the assembled trades” .
In many areas, Pfefferküchler were also authorized to sell waxwork made from beeswax and to brew mead. For a long time, Pfefferküchler journeymen were not entitled to quit their master’s work between Martin’s Day and Maria Lichtmeß .
In the Saxon town of Pulsnitz, the Pfefferküchler lived and live all year round from the craft of gingerbread bakery. At first, besides gingerbread, bread and white baked goods were made in the craft workshops. In 1919, the Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchlerinnung became independent and between 1933 and 1945 it was affiliated to the Zittau confectioners' guild. In the GDR, the Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchler in the Bischofswerda district were incorporated into the cooperative of the baker, miller, confectioner and peppercup trade. The Pulsnitzer Pfefferküchler remained a private company until the end of the GDR.
From October 3, 1990, the craft regulations of the Federal Republic of Germany applied. At that time, the list of skilled trades with a master craftsman's training did not include the Pfefferküchler craft. On February 13, 1998, the German Bundestag decided to reorganize the craft regulations and added the Pfefferküchler craft to the list.
Historic pepper factories
This list gives an overview of former gingerbread bakeries and gingerbread factories from 1585.
1585–1687 (period of mention)
- 1585, George Deuffel, bakery with gingerbread bakery
- 1624, Christoph Deuffel
- 1686, Gottlieb Deuffel, was also city judge
- 1654, George Ziegenbalg, was also mayor
- 1657, Christian Ziegenbalg
- Gotthard Grossmann
- Jakob Grossmann
- Gottlieb Grossmann
1743–1900 (mention or period of foundation)
- 1743, Tobias Thomas
- Mentioned around 1820, gardener, Musseliek
- 1825 Johann Christian Groschky
- 1834, Gottlieb Bubnick, honey cake and gingerbread factory
- 1865, Oswald Köhler
- 1865, Oscar Oswald
- 1865, Moritz Liebscher
- 1869, Hauffe
- mentioned around 1891, Oscar Thomas
- around 1870, Eduard Vogt
- 1880, Moritz Rüdrich, was from 1913 purveyor to the court of His Royal Highness Prince Johann Georg, Duke of Saxony and from 1918 also purveyor to the royal Saxon court
- 1884, K. Hermann Richter
- 1886, Friedrich Löschner
- In 1896, Richard Köhler, was also purveyor to the court in the Principality of Schwarzburg-Sondershausen and Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt
- 1900, Richard Götz
1900–1958 (foundation)
- around 1909, Ernst Löschner
- 1920, Moritz Gebauer
- after 1920, JI Müller
- 1928, Kurt Scheiding
- 1958 Werner Winkelmann
Today's traditional pepper cakes
- Georg Gräfe Pfefferküchlerei (since 1909)
- Pfefferküchlerei EC Groschky (since 1825)
- Pfefferküchlerei Karl Handrick (since 1911)
- Pfefferküchlerei Hermann Löschner (since 1813) Owner Peter Kotzsch is currently the head master
- Pfefferküchlerei Richard Nitzsche (since 1908)
- Pfefferküchlerei Max Schäfer (since 1924)
- Pfefferküchlerei Max Spitzer (since 1920)
- Pfefferküchlerei Bernhard Zeiler (since 1904)
- Pulsnitzer gingerbread factory (since 1884)
Pulsnitzer Pfefferkuchenmarkt, the Pfefferkuchenmuseum and other things
At the traditional Pulsnitzer gingerbread market, which is usually held at the beginning of November, all of today's gingerbread factories and the gingerbread factory are represented with their goods and offer visitors the opportunity to compare them directly. The 18th Pulsnitz gingerbread market will take place in 2020 from November 6th to 8th. The museum Pfefferkuchen-Schauwerkstatt gives an insight into a Pfefferküchlerei around 1900 and shows a lot of historical accessories on the topic of gingerbread. You can bake your own gingerbread in your own bakery. In 2008 an invitation was held for the first time to an open pepper kitchen and in 2015 again. On April 15, 2018, there was an open pepper kitchens day for the third time. The eight gingerbread factories and the gingerbread factory took part.
Production and ingredients
Cinnamon, cardamom, fennel, nutmeg and mace blossom, for example, are used as spices for the “Original Pulsnitzer Pfefferkuchen”. In addition, honey and syrup are used as condiments for the basic dough made from wheat and rye flour. Depending on the recipe, this is stored in a cool place for up to several years, whereby it gains flavor and baking properties through natural fermentation. It is not just the spice mixture alone, but the combination of base doughs that have been stored for different lengths of time, which brings the aromatic difference into the baked goods of the individual peppercups. Due to the long storage, the base dough becomes very firm and therefore had to be broken (kneaded) before processing on a so-called breaker bench (see photo). Despite a few machines, the production has remained mostly manual work to this day. Deer horn salt or potash are used as raising agents . Only at the end is the dough provided with various spices and other ingredients and baked in the oven. But here too there are differences and every Pfefferküchler has his own recipe.
Products
Numerous varieties of gingerbread are always on offer, and individual items (show pieces) are also handcrafted to order. Every Pfefferküchlerei has its own house brand. Like the "Rietschelkuchen" or the "Cranberry-Pfefferkuchen", for example, this is a special variety that is only produced in a certain cakery. The most important type of gingerbread from Pulsnitz, the tips, are filled with various jams and coated with chocolate. There are also unfilled varieties in a wide variety of shapes, including alpine bread, paving stones, treats and, more recently, wholegrain peppercakes, organic wholegrain peppercakes and also hemp peppercakes. One provider also offers energy cuts based on gingerbread dough. Gingerbreads individually decorated with a colorful icing are also very popular and are now often used as an advertising message.
In addition to the gingerbread, there are other specialties. Macaroons ( coconut macaroons ) are a traditional pastry from the pepper factories .
Another specialty is the Saxon sauce pepper cake, also known as table cake. Due to its rounded seasoning, the sauce gets a special note and an excellent taste. Sauce cake is particularly popular when preparing Saxon sauerbraten . The Saxon peppercake sauce is also used for game dishes and fish specialties. In the past, Baumkuchen was an additional specialty made in some Pfefferküchlerei, although it is rarely offered today.
literature
- Essays
- Siegmar Schubert: A touch of the Orient - gingerbread in Upper Lusatia . In: Sweet Upper Lusatia . Schlesisch-Oberlausitzer Museumsverband gGmbH, Krobnitz Castle 2014.
- Siegmar Schubert: Museum of the Pulsnitz Gingerbread Workshop . In: Between Großer Röder and Kleiner Spree , Vol. 5 (2008), pp. 96–99.
- Constanze Treubner: Top secret recipes. Pulsnitzer gingerbread . In: Economy & Market. Das Ostdeutsche Wirtschaftsmagazin , Vol. 17 (2006), Issue 1–2, pp. 58–59.
- numiscontrol: Coin and medal images in unusual locations . In: Coins & Collecting. Magazine for coins, paper money and medals , (2016), Issue 1, pp. 83–84.
- Books
- Johann Heinrich Ludwig Bergius: New Policey and Cameral Magazine , fourth volume, pages 328 to 330 "Pfefferküchler", Leipzig, 1778.
- D. Johann Georg Krünitz: Economic-Technological Encyclopedia, or general system of state, town, house and agriculture and art history, in alphabetical order , pages 563 to 576 "Pfefferküchler", Berlin, 1808.
- Torkhild Hinrichsen: The cake heart gingerbread from Germany , Husum Druck- und Verlagsgesellschaft mbH u. Co. KG, Husum 2009, ISBN 978-3-89876-463-6 .
- Torkhild Hinrichsen: In Knusperhaus-Lebkuchen from Europe , Husum Druck- und Verlagsgesellschaft mbH u. Co. KG Husum 2008, ISBN 978-3-89876-420-9 .
- Anja Köhler, Uwe Hessel, Siegmar Schubert: Sweet Upper Lusatia . Schlesisch-Oberlausitzer Museumsverband gGmbH, Krobnitz Castle 2014.
- Manfred Liere: The gingerbread. A delicious Christmas story . Museum gingerbread workshop, Pulsnitz 2005.
- Thomas Naumann: Small gingerbread bakery. Story and recipes . Buchverlag für die Frau, Leipzig 2005, ISBN 3-89798-162-9 .
- Others
- Pulsnitzer Anzeiger 12/2009, p. 4, Pulsnitz 100 years ago, by Rüdiger Rost.
- Festival magazine for the Heimatfest in Pulsnitz, 1975.
Web links
- Website of the Pfefferkuchenmarkt Pulsnitz , accessed on January 30, 2020.
Individual evidence
- ↑ A. Hantzsch, Communications from the Dresden History Association, Eighth Booklet, 1888
- ↑ A. Hantzsch, Communications from the Dresden History Association, Eighth Booklet, 1888
- ↑ Historical medal on the facade of GT Thomas' former Pfefferküchlerei in Pulsnitz
- ↑ Article in Coins & Collecting, January 2016, Article: Coin and medal images in unusual places - building facades and old shop windows tell stories, author: numiscontrol
- ↑ Award of court titles, Ministry of the Royal House, Saxon State Archives
- ↑ Entry as word / figurative mark at TMDB
- ^ FG Metzger, Nuremberg, in: Pick and Puck-Ein Pfefferkuchen-Märchen, Nuremberg 1906
- ^ Johann Heinrich Ludwig Bergius: New Policey and Cameral magazine, volume four, Leipzig 1778
- ↑ Museum gingerbread show workshop in Pulsnitz
- ↑ Georg Gräfe Pfefferküchlerei
- ↑ Gingerbread Manufactory EC Groschky
- ^ Pfefferküchlerei Karl Handrick
- ^ Pfefferküchlerei Löschner
- ↑ Pfefferküchlerei Richard Nitzsche
- ↑ Pfefferküchlerei Max Schäfer
- ^ Pfefferküchlerei Max Spitzer
- ↑ Pfefferküchlerei Zeiler Pulsnitz
- ↑ Pulsnitzer Lebkuchenfabrik GmbH
- ↑ Information from the Pulsnitzer Pfefferkuchenmarkt organization office
- ^ Sächsische Zeitung, Mysterious Pfefferkuchen , March 9, 2018, Local, page 9