Skerries

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Hand warping on a vertical warping frame
Archipelago with 345 threads (around 1941)
Cone warping machine (around 1941)
Trees on the hand loom, d. H. Applying the finished chain

The archipelago , also scissors , is a preparatory step in the Weaving and knitting. A group of warp thread tapes of the same length and wound parallel next to one another is produced . A warp thread tape consists of the entire thread sheet, arranged in a specific pattern repeat. The desired total number of warp threads is achieved by winding several tapes next to one another. The warping is usually used in the production of fashionable and colorful woven goods that are to be provided with colored stripes and / or with a repeating pattern (e.g. tartan ). Warping machines , among other things, serve as work equipment .

process

The yarn is stored on bobbins in a creel or bobbin frame and drawn off (cut to length) in the required length. The warping takes place in strips, with the number of strips or threads depending on the maximum number of bobbins that can be attached and the final number of warp threads, and all strips have the same thread length, but not always the same number of threads.

In artisanal weaving, a reel-like , often vertical warp beam or warp frame (also known as a shear frame) is used to cut the warp threads to length . In the silk weaving industry , the warping frame was also known as the Scheermühle.

In the textile industry, warping takes place either on individual rollers ( partial warp beams ) or on a conical warping drum built into the machine . With the latter, it is possible to bring complicated patterns into the fabric , as each band can be attached with a different color repeat (color sequences). Warping with the warping drum is also more suitable for shorter batches, as the further processing effort when working with partial warp beams is comparatively high.

When the predetermined number of bands is aufgeschärt on the warper drum, the yarn sheet is of the warping drum on the so-called warp beam of a machine on the same loom rewound rewound.

After this step, the chain is ready for further processing. In some cases, the geschärte chain comes into the sizing where the warp threads are coated to protect against scuffing and its consolidation with size. This is done less often and, above all, only when it is really needed, as it is much more time-consuming to finish a warped chain compared to a broken chain. For this reason, yarns are usually used in warping where, depending on the nature and / or raw material, sizing can be dispensed with entirely, e.g. B. threads or filaments from a certain fineness.

Sample calculation

If a product that is 80 meters long and 150 centimeters wide is to be produced with a warp density of 40 threads per centimeter, you need 40 × 150 = 6000 warp threads of 80 meters each for weaving. If the circumference of a warping frame is 5 meters and 100 bobbins can be attached to the bobbin rack, 100 threads must be wound around the warping frame 16 times (80 meters / 5 meters = 16). This process has to be repeated 60 times to produce the complete chain (100 × 60 = 6000).

See also

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Alois Kießling, Max Matthes: Textile - specialist dictionary. Fachverlag Schiele & Schön, Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-7949-0546-6 , p. 330.
  2. ^ Scheermühle in the Economic Encyclopedia (1773-1858) by JG Krünitz