Stresemann (suit)

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A “Stresemann” in an exhibition at the Cromford textile factory

The Stresemann is a suit named after the longstanding German Foreign Minister Gustav Stresemann . It should only be worn during the day (until 5 p.m.) and is considered suitable for formal occasions such as a funeral service, state reception or banquet . The Stresemann replaces the cutaway , but has a far less official character.

Reich Foreign Minister Gustav Stresemann 1928 (seated, right)

History of origin

The suit, introduced in 1925 on the occasion of the negotiations of the Locarno Treaties, consists of black and gray striped trousers, a single-breasted black or anthracite-colored jacket with peak lapels , a light gray vest, which is dark for funerals, and a white shirt with French cuffs that are closed with cufflinks , and a silver-gray tie , for funerals a black tie with or without a tie pin . Black shoes are worn with the Stresemann.

Regarding the history of its origins, it is said that Reich Foreign Minister Stresemann was tired of always having to change suits between office and public appearances (such as in the Reich Chancellery and the Reichstag ). While in the political public you had to wear a cutaway according to the protocol of that time (and still common in Japan today) , but this was too impractical and too solemn for normal government everyday life in the office, Gustav Stresemann exchanged the cut for when he entered his ministry made a jacket similar to a frock coat , which, because it was of medium length, could just about be worn with the dignified striped trousers of the cut suit, but was still sufficiently comfortable and simple to be worn on the street and in the office . Stresemann saved the need to take off and put on another pair of trousers and waistcoats , as the trick of the Stresemann suit was that you only exchange the cut jacket when making a cut.

In the early Federal Republic of Germany, the Stresemann was worn at state receptions, which earned him the name Bonn suit .

In contrast to the cutaway, which has been enjoying increasing popularity again for several years, the Stresemann is now almost extinct.

particularities

In the Miesbach costume , the long trousers, which are worn in the so-called half-dress in winter instead of the short lederhosen, are also called Stresemann. These are also gray, longitudinally striped trousers.

literature

Web links

Commons : Stresemann (suit)  - collection of images, videos and audio files

supporting documents

  1. ↑ knigge.de: Clothing - Der Stresemann , accessed on June 21, 2016
  2. ↑ Theodor Eschenburg gives a very precise point in time for Stresemann's decision: "The head of the political department, Redlhammer, who was considered the best dressed man in office, had discovered the item of clothing in America and presented it to his boss. Stresemann and the Reich Finance Minister Luther decided, to wear the combination instead of the cutaway because of the heat in Locarno. " (Theodor Eschenburg: So listen to it: history and stories . Berliner Taschenbuch Verlags GmbH, Berlin 2001, p. 225).
  3. ↑ zeitklicks.de: A suit called Stresemann , accessed on June 21, 2016
  4. ↑ miss-solution.com: Suit for the groom: tuxedo, cut or tailcoat - Der Stresemann , accessed on June 21, 2016
  5. ↑ gentlemansgazette.com: The Stresemann suit (by Sven Raphael Schneider; from March 16, 2010) , accessed on June 21, 2016
  6. ↑ Uwe Fenner : Successful with style. The etiquette for all situations. Linde Verlag, Vienna 2009, ISBN 978-3-7093-0251-4 , p. 53 and p. 104.