Hermann M. von Eelking

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Hermann Marten August Max Freiherr von Eelking (born January 1, 1887 in Posen , † February 19, 1970 in Berlin) was a journalist in the field of German men's fashion.

Life

Hermann Marten von Eelking joined a Berlin guard regiment and took his leave there as a Prussian captain after the First World War. In 1913 he wrote poems for the anti-Semitic Kreuz newspaper, among others . He was the editor of The Bachelor magazine . In 1927 he founded the men's journal and acted here as publisher and editor-in-chief. Finally, in 1928 he founded the German Institute for Men's Fashion , of which he was managing director for more than 25 years. He accompanied the decline of the Berlin clothing industry as an author for various specialist magazines.

In 1934 the central publishing house of the NSDAP published the title Die Uniformen der Braunhemden - SA, SS, Politischeleiter, Hitlerjugend, Jungvolk and BDM , which was published by Eelking. In 1944 he was to write another book for the same publisher, entitled Encyclopedia of the Present War - in the military, diplomatic, political, biographical, economic and cultural fields . This did not happen because of the end of the war. Another book, a reference work for the clothing industry, was planned, but was not published either.

In the post-war years, Eelking advised the Berlin clothing industry on reconstruction. The men's journal was not published from 1942 to 1949 and did not start again until 1950 with Eelking as publisher, editor-in-chief and author of most of the articles on style rules, fashions ( pros and cons of the cuff etc.) and the fashion dictionary. On November 9, 1950, he founded the institute for men's fashion, of which he became chairman. In 1954, von Eelking and other colleagues from the clothing industry founded the Deutsche Mode-Institut e. V., Berlin-Düsseldorf. One of the co-founders was Fritz M. Tübke , who was involved in the “ Aryanization ” of the Jewish company von Illdefons Auerbach at Leipziger Strasse 58 in Berlin and who owed the economic rise of his company, the Kronen-Krawattenfabrik, to this circumstance. In the post-war years, Baron Eelking belonged to the elite of the again up-and-coming West German clothing industry and was a frequent participant in various events organized by the industry associations and was also a much-seen guest at numerous fashion shows.

Eelking is the author of numerous books and publications on the subject of men's fashion. His style is more columnist than scientific. The lexicon of men's fashion he edited mixes scientific demands with journalistic style.

Works

  • The family archive. A brief suggestion for its design . Falken-Verlag, Darmstadt 1918
  • Cloakroom laws . Budeju-Buchverlag, Berlin 1923 (Facsimile Verlag Finckenstein and Salmuth, Berlin [2000], supplemented by an introduction by Karl Lagerfeld , ISBN 3-934882-00-5 )
  • The uniforms of the brown shirts. SA, SS, Political Leaders, Hitler Youth, Jungvolk and BDM Central Publishing House of the NSDAP Franz Eher Nachf., Munich 1934 ( digitized version )
  • Chats about the tie . Rotsiegel-Krawattenfabrik, Berlin 1937, again around 1955
  • The fashion advisor. The shapes of modern men's coats for all seasons. Commented v. HM v. Eelking . Adwo advertising and printed matter advertising company, Berlin 1949 (19 pages)
  • Suit almanac of international men's fashion . Musterschmidt publishing house, Göttingen 1959
  • Lexicon of men's fashion . Musterschmidt publishing house, Göttingen 1960
  • The portrait of the elegant man. A cylinder brevier from Werther to Kennedy . Herbig Publishing House, Berlin-Grunewald 1962
  • Booted and spurred. 300 years of equestrian etiquette . Parey Publishing House, Berlin 1966
  • Balance sheet of vanity. The history of the tie . Musterschmidt publishing house, Göttingen, Frankfurt am Main and Zurich 1976, ISBN 3-7881-8006-4

literature

  • Iris Countess Vitzthum von Eckstädt: A worthy citizen in tails? A contribution to the cultural history of clothing research . Schneider Verlag Hohengehren, Baltmannsweiler 2008, ISBN 978-3-8340-0425-3 (plus dissertation, Universität der Künste Berlin, 2006), in particular p. 153ff.
  • Uwe Westphal: Berlin clothing and fashion 1836–1939. The destruction of a tradition . 2nd Edition. Edition Hentrich, Berlin 1992, ISBN 3-89468-044-X

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