Daniel Woods: Difference between revisions

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use better ref; clarify lede that he is one of the most important in the history of the sport
Undid revision 1211836069 by 50.230.89.210 (talk) being a white man is not a specialization, and it should not be included in the link to bouldering in any case.
 
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{{short description|American rock climber}}
{{short description|American rock climber}}
{{use mdy dates|date=October 2022}}
{{Infobox climber
{{Infobox climber
| image = Daniel Woods 2019.jpg
| image = Daniel Woods 2019.jpg
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| caption = Woods in 2019
| caption = Woods in 2019
| name = Daniel Woods
| name = Daniel Woods
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1989|08|01|df=yes}}<ref name=CL/>
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1989|08|01}}<ref name=CL/>
| birth_place = [[Richardson, Texas]]<ref name=CL/>
| birth_place = [[Richardson, Texas]], U.S.<ref name=CL/>
| death_date = <!-- if applicable use {{death date and age|yyyy|mm|dd|yyyy|mm|dd}} -->
| death_date = <!-- if applicable use {{death date and age|yyyy|mm|dd|yyyy|mm|dd}} -->
| death_place =
| death_place =
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| height = 1.70 m
| height = 1.70 m
| weight = 61 kg
| weight = 61 kg
| typeofclimber = [[Boulderer]], [[sport climbing]]
| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|
* [[Bouldering]]
* [[Sport climbing]]
* [[Competition bouldering]]
}}
| highestgrade =
| highestgrade =
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9b}}
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9b}}
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|9A, V17}}
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|9A, V17}}
| knownfor =
| knownfor = {{flatlist|
* Second-ever climber to send {{Boulder grade|9A}}}}
| firstascents = ''The Process'' (V16)
| firstascents = {{ubl|''Return of the Sleepwalker'' (V17, 2021) |''The Process'' (V16, 2015)}}
| namedroutes =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| majorascents =
| website = {{URL|https://www.island.io/danielwoods}}
| website =
| updated = October 31, 2017
| updated = August 3, 2022
| medaltemplates =
| medaltemplates =
{{Medal|Competition|[[IFSC Climbing World Cup|World Cup]]}}
{{Medal|Competition|[[IFSC Climbing World Cup|World Cup]]}}
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| show-medals = yes
| show-medals = yes
}}
}}
'''Daniel Woods''' (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional [[rock climber]] who specializes in [[bouldering]], and is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering.<ref name=CL/> Woods has climbed over twenty bouldering problems graded {{Boulder grade|8C}}, making him one of the most prolific climbers of that grade.<ref name=CL/><ref>{{cite web |last1=Beale |first1=Alex |title=The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World (2018 update) |url=https://www.8a.nu/user/daniel-woods/bouldering |website=www.8a.nu |publisher=8a.nu |access-date=1 January 2021}}</ref> He also won several competitions such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship ([[American Bouldering Series]]), the Teva Mountain Games, and some international competitions.<ref name=CL/>
'''Daniel Woods''' (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional [[rock climber]] who specializes in [[bouldering]], and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering.<ref name=CL/> Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above {{Boulder grade|8C}}.<ref name=CL/><ref>{{cite web |last1=Beale |first1=Alex |title=The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World (2018 update) |url=https://www.8a.nu/user/daniel-woods/bouldering |website=www.8a.nu |publisher=8a.nu |access-date=1 January 2021}}</ref> He has also won several [[competition bouldering]] events, such as the [[American Bouldering Series|U.S. National Bouldering Championship]] and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the [[first ascent]] of a low start to ''Sleepwalker'' {{Boulder grade|V16}} which he named ''Return of the Sleepwalker'' and proposed the [[Grade (climbing)|grade]] {{Boulder grade|9A}}, only the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Solved by men|second-ever]] route in history at that grade.<ref name=CL/>


==Early life==
==Early life==
[[File:Daniel Woods - Battle in the Bubble 2010 - Boulder, Colorado.jpg|thumb|upright|Woods competing in [[Boulder, Colorado|Boulder]], [[Colorado]] in 2010]]
[[File:Daniel Woods - Battle in the Bubble 2010 - Boulder, Colorado.jpg|thumb|upright|Woods competing in [[Boulder, Colorado|Boulder]], [[Colorado]] in 2010]]
Woods was born in [[Richardson, Texas]], and was introduced to climbing trough the cub scouts.<ref name=CL>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/daniel-woods-worlds-strongest-boulderer/ | title=Daniel Woods, World’s Most Accomplished Boulderer | first=Owen | last=Clarke | date=9 March 2022 | accessdate=26 June 2022}}</ref><ref name="About_Daniel">{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/problog/aboutdwoods/ |title=About Daniel Woods |publisher=climbing.com |date=15 February 2008 |access-date=11 May 2013 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101007210524/http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/problog/aboutdwoods/ |archive-date=7 October 2010 }}</ref> In 1997, when he was 8 years old, his family moved to [[Longmont]], [[Colorado]]. Woods then began competing and was part of a junior climbing team coached by [[Justin Sjong]] and [[Jimmie Redo]].<ref name="About_Daniel"/>
Woods was born in [[Richardson, Texas]], and was introduced to climbing through the cub scouts.<ref name=CL>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/daniel-woods-worlds-strongest-boulderer/ | title=Daniel Woods, World's Most Accomplished Boulderer | first=Owen | last=Clarke | date=9 March 2022 | accessdate=26 June 2022}}</ref><ref name="About_Daniel">{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/problog/aboutdwoods/ |title=About Daniel Woods |publisher=climbing.com |date=15 February 2008 |access-date=11 May 2013 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101007210524/http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/problog/aboutdwoods/ |archive-date=7 October 2010 }}</ref> In 1997, when he was 8 years old, his family moved to [[Longmont]], [[Colorado]]. Woods then began competing and was part of a junior climbing team coached by Justin Sjong and Jimmie Redo.<ref name="About_Daniel"/>


==Climbing career==
==Climbing career==
[[File:Daniel Woods Hanshelleren 01.jpg|thumb|Woods climbing in Hanshelleren Caves, [[Flatanger]], Norway in 2019]]
In 2003, he climbed his first bouldering problem rated {{Boulder grade|8A|link=no}}, ''Fuck You Finger''. Then in 2004 he made the first ascent of ''Echale'', grading it {{Boulder grade|8B+|link=no}} when he was 15. He won the [[American Bouldering Series]] national championship in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/woods-puccio-reigning-champions-at-abs-14/|title=Woods, Puccio Reigning Champions at ABS 14|publisher=climbing.org|author=Amanda Fox|date=22 February 2013|access-date=22 May 2013}}</ref> and the [[Teva Mountain Games]] in the bouldering category in 2006, 2007 and, 2010.


===Rock climbing===
On 19 June 2007, when he was traveling in the Rocky Mountain National Park in the area of Chaos Canyon, he made the first ascent of ''Jade'', formerly named ''Green Project 45'', a project he worked for several years with [[Dave Graham (climber)|Dave Graham]].<ref name="Jade">{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/jade07/ |title=Fine Jade: Woods Bags Rocky Mountain Super-Project |publisher=climbing.com |date=21 June 2007 |access-date=11 May 2013 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090215083734/http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/jade07/ |archive-date=15 February 2009 }}</ref> He graded it {{Boulder grade|8C|link=no}}, making it his hardest problem until then. However, it was later reassessed, and its grade lowered to {{Boulder grade|8B+|link=no}}.
[[File:Daniel Woods Hanshelleren 01.jpg|thumb|Woods climbing ''Thor's Hammer'' (9a+ 5.15a) in the Hanshelleren Caves, [[Flatanger]], Norway in 2019]]
In 2003, Woods climbed his first bouldering problem rated {{Boulder grade|8A|link=no}}, ''Fuck You Finger''. The following year, at the age of 15, he made the first ascent of ''Echale'', grading it {{Boulder grade|8B+|link=no}}.


In early 2008 at the age of 18, Woods moved to [[Innsbruck]], Austria and spent part of his time training with [[Kilian Fischhuber]] and [[David Lama]]. In May 2008, he made the first ascent of ''In Search of Time Lost'' at Magic Wood in Switzerland and evaluated it {{Boulder grade|8C|link=no}}.<ref name="In_Search">{{Cite web |url=http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/05/09/new-8c-in-magicwood/ |title=New 8C in Magicwood |publisher=b3bouldering.com |date=9 May 2008 |access-date=11 May 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160209033452/http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/05/09/new-8c-in-magicwood/ |archive-date=9 February 2016 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
On June 19, 2007, while traveling in the Chaos Canyon area of Rocky Mountain National Park, Woods made the first ascent of ''Jade'', formerly named ''The Green 45 Project'', a project he had worked for several years with [[Dave Graham (climber)|Dave Graham]].<ref name="Jade">{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/jade07/ |title=Fine Jade: Woods Bags Rocky Mountain Super-Project |publisher=climbing.com |date=21 June 2007 |access-date=11 May 2013 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090215083734/http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/jade07/ |archive-date=15 February 2009 }}</ref> He graded it {{Boulder grade|8C|link=no}}, making it his hardest ascent at that point. The consensus for the rating of Jade is now {{Boulder grade|8B+|link=no}}.


In November 2011, Woods began filming a climbing movie called ''Welcome to the Hood'' with [[Paul Robinson (climber)|Paul Robinson]], Guntram Jörg, and Anthony Gullsten. The filming would last five months, during which they climbed at some of the most famous and difficult bouldering sites in the world. The first part of the film was the Magic Wood in Switzerland, where Woods climbed ''Somewhere in Between'' {{Boulder grade|8B+|link=no}}.<ref name="Somewhere">{{Cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64986 |title=Latest news from Swiss |author=Björn Pohl |publisher=ukclimbing.com |date=14 November 2011 |access-date=11 May 2013}}</ref>
In early 2008, at the age of 18, Woods moved to [[Innsbruck]], Austria, and spent part of his time training with [[Kilian Fischhuber]] and [[David Lama]]. In May 2008, he made the first ascent of ''In Search of Time Lost'' at Magic Wood in Switzerland and graded it {{Boulder grade|8C|link=no}}.<ref name="In_Search">{{Cite web |url=http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/05/09/new-8c-in-magicwood/ |title=New 8C in Magicwood |publisher=b3bouldering.com |date=9 May 2008 |access-date=11 May 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160209033452/http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/05/09/new-8c-in-magicwood/ |archive-date=9 February 2016 |url-status=dead }}</ref>


In November 2011, Woods began filming a climbing movie called ''Welcome to the Hood'' with [[Paul Robinson (climber)|Paul Robinson]], Guntram Jörg, and Anthony Gullsten. The filming lasted five months, during which the group climbed at some of the most famous and difficult bouldering sites in the world. The first part of the film was set in Magic Wood, Switzerland, where Woods climbed ''Somewhere in Between'' {{Boulder grade|8B+|link=no}}.<ref name="Somewhere">{{Cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64986 |title=Latest news from Swiss |author=Björn Pohl |publisher=ukclimbing.com |date=14 November 2011 |access-date=11 May 2013}}</ref>
==Competition==

Despite primarily focusing on hard outdoor bouldering, Daniel Woods is the most accomplished American male competition climber. He has won the ABS National Championship 9 times,<ref>http://usaclimbing.net/abs/</ref> the SCS National Championship,<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://usaclimbing.net/scs/ |title=Collegiate Climbing Series |website=USA Climbing |access-date=2015-02-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141219124153/http://usaclimbing.net/scs/ |archive-date=2014-12-19 |url-status=dead }}</ref> and has competed in many IFSC World Cup events earning a gold medal in the Vail World Cup in 2010.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1247&cat=6 | title=Competitions }}</ref> Woods also has the most open wins at the Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo including another first place in 2017.<ref>http://www.huecorodeo.com/</ref>
===Competition climbing===
Despite primarily focusing on hard outdoor bouldering, Daniel Woods is one of the most accomplished American male competition climbers. He won the ABS National Championship 9 times,{{Citation needed|date=June 2023}} the SCS National Championship,<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://usaclimbing.net/scs/ |title=Collegiate Climbing Series |website=USA Climbing |access-date=2015-02-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141219124153/http://usaclimbing.net/scs/ |archive-date=2014-12-19 |url-status=dead }}</ref> and competed in many [[IFSC Climbing World Cup|IFSC World Cup]] events, earning a gold medal in the Vail World Cup in 2010.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1247&cat=6 | title=Competitions }}</ref> Woods also has the most open wins at the [[Hueco Rock Rodeo|Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo]], his most recent having been in 2017.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.huecorodeo.com/ |title=Home |website=huecorodeo.com}}</ref>

Woods won the [[American Bouldering Series]] national championship in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/woods-puccio-reigning-champions-at-abs-14/|title=Woods, Puccio Reigning Champions at ABS 14|publisher=climbing.org|author=Amanda Fox|date=22 February 2013|access-date=22 May 2013}}</ref> and the [[Teva Mountain Games]] in the bouldering category in 2006, 2007 and, 2010.

==Notable ascents==

=== [[Bouldering|Boulder problems]] ===


==Notable Ascents==
{{Boulder grade|9A}}:
{{Boulder grade|9A}}:

:* ''Return of the Sleepwalker'' - Black Velvet Canyon ([[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Red Rocks]], [[United States|USA]]) - 30 March 2021 - First Ascent
:* ''Return of the Sleepwalker'' - Black Velvet Canyon ([[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Red Rocks]], [[United States|USA]]) - 30 March 2021 - First Ascent


{{Boulder grade|8C+}}:
{{Boulder grade|8C+}}:
:* ''Off the wagon low'' - Valle Bavona (Switzerland) - March 2020 - Third ascent.
:* ''Grand Illusion'' - Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utha) - June 2021 - Third ascent.
:* ''Off the Wagon Low'' - Val Bavona (Switzerland) - March 2020 - Third ascent.
:* ''Sleepwalker'' - Black Velvet Canyon ([[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Red Rocks]], [[United States|USA]]) - 15 December 2018 - First ascent by [[Jimmy Webb (climber)|Jimmy Webb]]. Repeated by Daniel Woods in January 2019.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.up-climbing.com/en/boulder/news/36147|title=Sleepwalker: 8C+ for James Webb and Daniel Woods|date=22 January 2019 |access-date=23 January 2019}}</ref>
:* ''Sleepwalker'' - Black Velvet Canyon ([[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Red Rocks]], [[United States|USA]]) - 16 January 2019 - Second ascent<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.up-climbing.com/en/boulder/news/36147|title=Sleepwalker: 8C+ for James Webb and Daniel Woods|date=22 January 2019 |access-date=23 January 2019}}</ref>
:*''Box Therapy'' - [[Rocky Mountain National Park]] (USA) - 31 October 2018 - First Ascent
:* ''Creature from the Black Lagoon'' - [[Rocky Mountain National Park]] (USA) - 27 September 2016 - First Ascent
:*''Box Therapy'' - [[Rocky Mountain National Park]] (USA) - 31 October 2018 - First ascent
:* ''Creature from the Black Lagoon'' - [[Rocky Mountain National Park]] (USA) - 27 September 2016 - First ascent
:* ''The Process'' - [[Bishop, California|Bishop]] (USA) - 17 January 2015 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info">{{cite web | url=http://www.hardclimbs.info/climbers/daniel-woods?sort_column=date&sort_direction=desc | title=Daniel Woods: Climbers bio, competitions and hardest ascents | date=29 November 2021 }}</ref>
:* ''The Process'' - [[Bishop, California|Bishop]] (USA) - 17 January 2015 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info">{{cite web | url=http://www.hardclimbs.info/climbers/daniel-woods?sort_column=date&sort_direction=desc | title=Daniel Woods: Climbers bio, competitions and hardest ascents | date=29 November 2021 }}</ref>
:* ''Hypnotized Minds'' - [[Rocky Mountain National Park]] (USA) - 21 October 2010 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Hypnotized Minds'' - [[Rocky Mountain National Park]] (USA) - 21 October 2010 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Insomniac'' - [[Lincoln Lake]] (USA) - 15 September 2022 - Second ascent
:* ''Adrenaline'' - [[Colorado]] (USA) - February 2024 - First Ascent


{{Boulder grade|8C}}:
{{Boulder grade|8C}}:
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:* ''Spray of Light'' - [[Rocklands (South Africa)]] - July 2015 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Spray of Light'' - [[Rocklands (South Africa)]] - July 2015 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Noise Vs Beauty'' - [[Rocklands (South Africa)]] - 14 June 2015 - First ascent, V14/V15<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Noise Vs Beauty'' - [[Rocklands (South Africa)]] - 14 June 2015 - First ascent, V14/V15<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Lucid Dreaming'' - [[Bishop, California|Bishop]] (USA) - 28 January 2014 - Second ascent of [[Paul Robinson (climber)|Paul Robinson]]'s boulder (2010) that was originally graded 8C+(V16)<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Lucid Dreaming'' - [[Bishop, California|Bishop]] (USA) - 28 January 2014 - Second ascent of [[Paul Robinson (climber)|Paul Robinson]]'s boulder (2010), downgraded from 8C+(V16)<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''El Diablo'' - [[Peñoles]] (MEX) - 19 January 2014 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''El Diablo'' - [[Peñoles]] (MEX) - 19 January 2014 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Nest'' - [[Red Rock National Conservation Area|Red Rock]] (USA) - 18 December 2013 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Nest'' - [[Red Rock National Conservation Area|Red Rock]] (USA) - 18 December 2013 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Defying Gravity'' - [[South Platte]] (USA) - 16 November 2013 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Defying Gravity'' - [[South Platte]] (USA) - 16 November 2013 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Ice Knife SDS'' - [[Guanella Pass]] (USA) - 2 November 2013 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Ice Knife SDS'' - [[Guanella Pass]] (USA) - 2 November 2013 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Delirium'' - [[Mount Evans|Mt. Evans]] (USA) - 18 September 2013 - Second ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Delirium'' - [[Mount Blue Sky|Mt. Blue Sky]] (USA) - 18 September 2013 - Second ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Wheel of Wolvo'' - [[Mount Evans|Mt. Evans]] (USA) - 9 September 2013 - Second ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Wheel of Wolvo'' - [[Mount Blue Sky|Mt. Blue Sky]] (USA) - 9 September 2013 - Second ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Wheel of Life (original)'' - [[Grampians (region)|Grampians]] (AUS) - 23 July 2013 - 9th ascentof [[Dai Koyamada]]'s boulder (2004) that was originally graded 8C+(V16)<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''[[The Wheel of Life]]'' - [[Grampians (region)|Grampians]] (AUS) - 23 July 2013 - 9th ascent of [[Dai Koyamada]]'s boulder (2004), downgraded from 8C+(V16)<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Hydrangea'' - [[Shiobara]] (JPN) - 14 February 2013 - Second ascentof [[Dai Koyamada]]'s boulder (2005) that was originally graded 8C+(V16)<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Hydrangea'' - [[Shiobara]] (JPN) - 14 February 2013 - Second ascent of [[Dai Koyamada]]'s boulder (2005), downgraded from 8C+(V16)<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Witness The Fitness'' - [[Ozark Mountains]] (USA) - 5 January 2013 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Witness The Fitness'' - [[Ozark Mountains]] (USA) - 5 January 2013 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''White Noise'' - [[Wild Basin]] (USA) - 18 September 2012 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''White Noise'' - [[Wild Basin]] (USA) - 18 September 2012 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
Line 83: Line 100:
:* ''Ill Trill'' - [[Magic Wood, Switzerland|Magic Wood]] (SUI) - 19 April 2011 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Ill Trill'' - [[Magic Wood, Switzerland|Magic Wood]] (SUI) - 19 April 2011 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Practice of the Wild'' - [[Magic Wood, Switzerland|Magic Wood]] (SUI) - 16 April 2011 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Practice of the Wild'' - [[Magic Wood, Switzerland|Magic Wood]] (SUI) - 16 April 2011 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Warrior Up'' - [[Mount Evans|Mt. Evans]] (USA) - 4 September 2010 - Second ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Warrior Up'' - [[Mount Blue Sky|Mt. Blue Sky]] (USA) - 4 September 2010 - Second ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Desperanza'' - [[Hueco Tanks]] (USA) - 27 February 2010 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Desperanza'' - [[Hueco Tanks]] (USA) - 27 February 2010 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Game'' - Boulder Canyon (USA) - 10 February 2010 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''The Game'' - Boulder Canyon (USA) - 10 February 2010 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Terremer'' - [[Hueco Tanks]] (USA) - 30 January 2010 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''Terremer'' - [[Hueco Tanks]] (USA) - 30 January 2010 - Third ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''In Search of Time Lost'' - [[Magic Wood, Switzerland|Magic Wood]] (SUI) - 9 September 2008 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>
:* ''In Search of Time Lost'' - [[Magic Wood, Switzerland|Magic Wood]] (SUI) - 9 September 2008 - First ascent<ref name="hardclimbs.info"/>

=== [[Redpoint (climbing)|Redpointed]] sport routes ===

{{Climbing grade|9a+}}:

:*''Thor's Hammer'' in the Hanshelleren Caves, [[Flatanger]], Norway in 2019. Repeat


==See also==
==See also==
* [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing]]
* [[Notable first free ascents]]


==References==
==References==
Line 97: Line 120:
==External links==
==External links==
{{Commons category}}
{{Commons category}}
* {{IFSC profile|id=1707|old_id=6308|archive=20200711071150}}
{{Climber links
{{Climber links
| website = https://www.island.io/danielwoods
| ifsc = 6308
| 8a = 4102
| 8a = 4102
| climbing = daniel-woods
| climbing = daniel-woods
| facebook =
| instagram =
}}
}}
* [http://27crags.com/climbers/dawoods89 27 Crags Profile]
* [http://27crags.com/climbers/dawoods89 27 Crags profile]


{{DEFAULTSORT:Woods, Daniel}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Woods, Daniel}}
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[[Category:American rock climbers]]
[[Category:American rock climbers]]
[[Category:People from Richardson, Texas]]
[[Category:People from Richardson, Texas]]
[[Category:Boulder climbers]]
[[Category:Golden Piton winners]]
[[Category:American competition climbers]]

Latest revision as of 19:06, 4 March 2024

Daniel Woods
Woods in 2019
Personal information
Born (1989-08-01) August 1, 1989 (age 34)[1]
Richardson, Texas, U.S.[1]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height1.70 m (5 ft 7 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Second-ever climber to send 9A (V17)
First ascents
  • Return of the Sleepwalker (V17, 2021)
  • The Process (V16, 2015)
Medal record
World Cup
Gold medal – first place 2010 Vail Bouldering
Updated on August 3, 2022

Daniel Woods (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering, and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering.[1] Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above 8C (V15).[1][2] He has also won several competition bouldering events, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) which he named Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), only the second-ever route in history at that grade.[1]

Early life[edit]

Woods competing in Boulder, Colorado in 2010

Woods was born in Richardson, Texas, and was introduced to climbing through the cub scouts.[1][3] In 1997, when he was 8 years old, his family moved to Longmont, Colorado. Woods then began competing and was part of a junior climbing team coached by Justin Sjong and Jimmie Redo.[3]

Climbing career[edit]

Rock climbing[edit]

Woods climbing Thor's Hammer (9a+ 5.15a) in the Hanshelleren Caves, Flatanger, Norway in 2019

In 2003, Woods climbed his first bouldering problem rated 8A (V11), Fuck You Finger. The following year, at the age of 15, he made the first ascent of Echale, grading it 8B+ (V14).

On June 19, 2007, while traveling in the Chaos Canyon area of Rocky Mountain National Park, Woods made the first ascent of Jade, formerly named The Green 45 Project, a project he had worked for several years with Dave Graham.[4] He graded it 8C (V15), making it his hardest ascent at that point. The consensus for the rating of Jade is now 8B+ (V14).

In early 2008, at the age of 18, Woods moved to Innsbruck, Austria, and spent part of his time training with Kilian Fischhuber and David Lama. In May 2008, he made the first ascent of In Search of Time Lost at Magic Wood in Switzerland and graded it 8C (V15).[5]

In November 2011, Woods began filming a climbing movie called Welcome to the Hood with Paul Robinson, Guntram Jörg, and Anthony Gullsten. The filming lasted five months, during which the group climbed at some of the most famous and difficult bouldering sites in the world. The first part of the film was set in Magic Wood, Switzerland, where Woods climbed Somewhere in Between 8B+ (V14).[6]

Competition climbing[edit]

Despite primarily focusing on hard outdoor bouldering, Daniel Woods is one of the most accomplished American male competition climbers. He won the ABS National Championship 9 times,[citation needed] the SCS National Championship,[7] and competed in many IFSC World Cup events, earning a gold medal in the Vail World Cup in 2010.[8] Woods also has the most open wins at the Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo, his most recent having been in 2017.[9]

Woods won the American Bouldering Series national championship in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013[10] and the Teva Mountain Games in the bouldering category in 2006, 2007 and, 2010.

Notable ascents[edit]

Boulder problems[edit]

9A (V17):

  • Return of the Sleepwalker - Black Velvet Canyon (Red Rocks, USA) - 30 March 2021 - First Ascent

8C+ (V16):

  • Grand Illusion - Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utha) - June 2021 - Third ascent.
  • Off the Wagon Low - Val Bavona (Switzerland) - March 2020 - Third ascent.
  • Sleepwalker - Black Velvet Canyon (Red Rocks, USA) - 16 January 2019 - Second ascent[11]
  • Box Therapy - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 31 October 2018 - First ascent
  • Creature from the Black Lagoon - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 27 September 2016 - First ascent
  • The Process - Bishop (USA) - 17 January 2015 - First ascent[12]
  • Hypnotized Minds - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 21 October 2010 - First ascent[12]
  • Insomniac - Lincoln Lake (USA) - 15 September 2022 - Second ascent
  • Adrenaline - Colorado (USA) - February 2024 - First Ascent

8C (V15):

Redpointed sport routes[edit]

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Thor's Hammer in the Hanshelleren Caves, Flatanger, Norway in 2019. Repeat

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f Clarke, Owen (March 9, 2022). "Daniel Woods, World's Most Accomplished Boulderer". Climbing. Retrieved June 26, 2022.
  2. ^ Beale, Alex. "The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World (2018 update)". www.8a.nu. 8a.nu. Retrieved January 1, 2021.
  3. ^ a b "About Daniel Woods". climbing.com. February 15, 2008. Archived from the original on October 7, 2010. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  4. ^ "Fine Jade: Woods Bags Rocky Mountain Super-Project". climbing.com. June 21, 2007. Archived from the original on February 15, 2009. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  5. ^ "New 8C in Magicwood". b3bouldering.com. May 9, 2008. Archived from the original on February 9, 2016. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  6. ^ Björn Pohl (November 14, 2011). "Latest news from Swiss". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  7. ^ "Collegiate Climbing Series". USA Climbing. Archived from the original on December 19, 2014. Retrieved February 17, 2015.
  8. ^ "Competitions".
  9. ^ "Home". huecorodeo.com.
  10. ^ Amanda Fox (February 22, 2013). "Woods, Puccio Reigning Champions at ABS 14". climbing.org. Retrieved May 22, 2013.
  11. ^ "Sleepwalker: 8C+ for James Webb and Daniel Woods". January 22, 2019. Retrieved January 23, 2019.
  12. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa "Daniel Woods: Climbers bio, competitions and hardest ascents". November 29, 2021.

External links[edit]