Allerleirauh (artist group)
Allerleirauh was a fashion, theater and performance network that emerged from the collaboration between the two designers Katharina Reinwald and Angelika Kroker in 1987 in East Berlin . They had already worked together in the “chic, charming & permanent” fashion group.
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Kroker and Reinwald were accepted as candidates for the Association of Visual Artists of the GDR (VBK) in 1988 and produce stage costumes for East German rock groups such as Silly , City or Pankow in their workshop in the East German Boheme Center in Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg . The performances of Allerleirauh were organized and carried by numerous, also changing actors and actors: Esther Friedemann, Sabine von Oettingen , Domenique Hollenstein (Windisch), Heike Krone, Sven Marquardt , Robert Paris, Frieda von Wild, Katja Wischnewski and many others.
Allerleirauh cultivated a romantic and fantastic style with set pieces made of natural shapes such as feathers, scales robes or twigs and often produced unique items. The scarcity economy in the GDR fueled their creativity to use unusual materials for their creations. They deliberately did not want to make their fashion suitable for everyday use, but saw it as an elegant protest against the everyday grayness in the late GDR.
The first designer group of this time (often with the same protagonists) was “chic, charming and durable”, or ccd for short. Further alternative fashion labels from the late GDR such as Stattsitz, Omlette Surprise, Larifari or Anstandslos followed.
The highlight is the Allerleirauh happening in 1988, which took place on three evenings in front of 600 spectators in the sold-out house of young talents in East Berlin. The rock band Pankow played live, the mannequins appeared in coats made of leather patches and scaled 3-D dresses.
The group appears in the documentary A Dream in Strawberry Foil . Their actions and appearances were documented by well-known GDR photographers, including Sibylle Bergemann .
The German Historical Museum in Berlin owns some unique items, as well as photographs of the fashion shows.
Actions, performances and exhibitions
- 2018: Albertinum (Kunsthalle im Lipsiusbau) “Medea mucks. Radical artists behind the Iron Curtain "
- 2009: Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin "Free within limits - fashion, photography, underground in the GDR 1979–89"
- 1991: Participation in the Pitti Immagine fashion fair, Florence / IT
- from 1990: further performances at home and abroad (excluding Reinwald) a. a. in Berlin in the Schaufenster youth club, in the Theater im Palast, in the Stadtbad Oderberger Straße and at the Volksbühne
- December 1989: Playing with earth, fire, reverb and leather, two evenings in the Gethsemane Church in East Berlin
- May 1988: The thing of light, space, sound and leather, three evenings in the House of Young Talents (HdjT) Berlin-East
Web links
- Fashion in the GDR. About strong women, self-sewn clothes and fashion punks on goethe.de
- Elegant form of resistance: Berlin exhibition on underground fashion in the GDR on July 3, 2009 by Carsten Probst on Deutschlandfunk
- Works by Sibylle Bergemann with images of the costumes from Allerleirauh in the Loock Gallery
- Works by Sibylle Bergemann with images of the creations by Allerleirauh near Ostkreuz - the photographer's agency
Individual evidence
- ↑ bohemia and dictatorship in the gdr. Retrieved March 27, 2019 .
- ↑ bohemia and dictatorship in the gdr. Retrieved March 27, 2019 .
- ^ Anne Goebel: Fashion in the East - "We wanted to be beautiful". Retrieved January 11, 2020 .
- ^ Susanne Altmann et al .; Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden / Albertinum (Hrsg.): Medea muckt. Radical artists behind the Iron Curtain, exhibition cat. Walther König, Cologne 2019, ISBN 978-3-96098-527-3 .