Fan you shi'er he shuo

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The Fan you shi'er he shuo ( Chinese  飯 有 十二 合 説  /  饭 有 十二 合 说 , Pinyin Fàn yǒu shí'èr hé shuō  - "What to observe when eating: 12 rules"), an important source for History of Chinese food and drink culture, was written by the official and writer Zhang Ying ( 張 英  /  张 英 ) (1637–1708) from the time of the Qing Dynasty , it was corrected by Wang Shizheng ( 王 士 正 ). It consists of around 1500 characters and is divided into twelve sections.

author

The author is from Tongcheng ( 桐城 ), Anhui Province . His age- old name is Dunfu ( 敦 复 ), his hao name is Lepu ( 樂 圃  /  乐 圃 ). In the Kangxi era of the Qing dynasty, he passed the jinshi civil servant exam, and in 1667 he entered the Nanfangshu ( 難 書房  /  难 书房 ). As an official he rose to head of the Ministry of Rites. He was a member of the Hanlin Academy . His collected works are contained in the Siku quanshu collection under the title Zhang Wenduan gongji ( 張文 端 公 集  /  张文 端 公 集 ) .

Fan you shi'er he shuo

The book is divided into 12 parts (see below: overview). Each part consists of a main text and a praise poem (song 颂). The main text mostly talks about what to look for when drinking and eating and what to follow. This is what the word “he 合” means in the title. The sentences of the “praise poems” are short and concise, in them his suggestions for “he 合” are represented again. They consist of 24 characters each with 6 lines of 4 characters each.

Overview

  1. Rice (dào 稻)
  2. To prepare food (chuī 炊)
  3. Fish and meat (yáo 肴)
  4. Vegetables (shū 蔬)
  5. Jerky meat (xiū 脩)
  6. Pickled vegetables (zū 菹)
  7. Soup / broth (gēng 羹)
  8. Tea (míng 茗)
  9. The right time (shí 时)
  10. Dishes (qì 器)
  11. The right place (dì 地)
  12. Right society (lǚ 侣)

Example: § 4 Vegetables (main text)

“The people of the old days said: In the morning leeks (jiu 韭) and in the evening Chinese cabbage (song 菘) are very special delicacies from the mountains. When the vegetable sellers from the city pick their vegetables, it is no longer the right time, they are already damaged by wind and sun, then the original taste is already lost. If you plant a mu (1/15 hectare ) of vegetables yourself and occasionally pick off the older leaves, there is still dew and frost on it, and it tastes very sweet and crunchy. This is what the poets refer to with the words "The Dao is in the vegetable leaves" (dao zai kuihuo 道 在 葵 藿). "

Example: § 4 vegetables (praise poem)

  • Water beet and garden radish
  • are sweet as sugar.
  • They taste better than millet and meat,
  • as a dinner they are also something special.
  • The vegetable roots are not bad,
  • You can do a hundred things with it.

Old prints

The work is contained in the old book collections Zhaodai congshu (昭 代 丛书) and Zhigutang congshu (志 古 堂 丛书).

See also

literature

  • Thomas Gwinner: Eating and Drinking. The classic Chinese cookbook literature. Diss., Heidelberg 1988.
  • Arthur W. Hummel (ed.): Eminent Chinese of the Ch'ing Period (1644-1912). Washington 1943.
  • Zhongguo pengren wenxian tiyao . No. 100.
  • Zhongguo renming da cidian (Lidai renwu juan). [Large Chinese dictionary of persons. Historical figures]. P. 335.
  • Zhongguo shijing . P. 884.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ His biography is contained in Hummel.
  2. ↑ Our presentation essentially follows the works Zhongguo shijing and Zhongguo pengren wenxian .
  3. ↑ Chinese title: 文华殿 大学 士 兼 礼部尚书.
  4. ↑ Cf. Gwinner (1988: 13)
  5. ↑ To be precise: Whorled mallow (kuí 葵) and plant leaves from bean cultures (藿 huò). - According to the philosopher Zhuangzi, the Dao is also in “poop and piss” (shi ni 屎 溺) (Harvard-Yenching index 59/22/43). Incidentally, both are excellent and frequently used vegetable fertilizers. - Is this coming full circle?
  6. ↑ "古人 称 早 韭 晚 菘 ， 山 厨 珍味。 城中 鬻 蔬 者 摘 采 非 时 ， 复 为 风 日 所 损 损 ， 真味 漓 矣。。 自 种 一亩 蔬 ， 时 其 老 {禾 犀} 而 取 之， 含 露 负 霜 ， 甘 芳 脆 美 ， 诗人 所谓 有道 在 葵 藿 那? " - The main text and praise poem for Section 4 (Vegetables) were quoted from Zhongguo shijing .
  7. ↑ * 蔓菁 芦 菔,
    • 其 甘 如 饴.
    • 美 胜 粱肉,
    • 晚 食 亦 奇.
    • 菜根 不厌,
    • 百事 可 为.