Huntsman (Savile Row)
Huntsman is a bespoke tailor on Savile Row , London . The shop, founded in 1849, is one of the figureheads of the street known for its bespoke tailors. Huntsman became known beyond the usual circles in 2014 through the comedy agent Kingsman: The Secret Service . The tailor Kingsman portrayed in the film , the secret quarters of an agent organization, is inspired by Huntsman, the shop itself served as the location for the film.
history
Huntsman's predecessor was a gaiters and breeches maker that had been based at 125 New Bond Street since 1814 . Henry Huntsman entered the business in 1849 and eventually took it over. Huntsman became a purveyor to the British court in 1865 . Henry Huntsman took his two sons into the business. This moved to Albemarle Street in 1898 and finally moved to its current location on Savile Row in 1919.
The company experienced a high point in Hollywood's golden age, when numerous Hollywood stars such as Clark Gable , Bing Crosby , Paul Newman , Laurence Olivier and Dirk Bogarde had their clothes at Huntsman. Actor Gregory Peck was a very regular customer and has purchased a three-digit number of Huntsman suits over the years. Female stars who also took care of themselves there were, for example, Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn , who had blouses, suits and sweaters made there. Hollywood also had an influence on the style of the house: it began to make clothes in such a way that they looked particularly good in photos.
In 2013, Belgian hedge fund manager Pierre Lagrange bought the business of 15 private investors who had previously owned Huntsman for several decades. Lagrange put in a new management, rebuilt the business premises and introduced new business areas. Under Lagrange, Huntsman also offered made- to- measure clothing for the first time in its history , equipped professional polo players and introduced tours through Asia and along the American west coast; measurements were taken at customers' sites and orders were taken. He appointed the designer Roubi L'Roubi as the new chief designer. L'Roubi - Lagrange's partner at the time - had previously mainly tailored women's clothing; his position on Savile Row was received with skepticism. In 2015, Lagrange replaced L'Roubi with Scottish Campbell Carey , a tailor with 20 years of experience on Saville Row.
According to the New York Times , Huntsman is the most expensive of all Savile Row tailors, with prices starting at £ 5,000 for a two-piece suit.
Lagrange became chair of the Savile Row Bespoke Association in 2015 .
style
Originally, Huntsman specialized primarily in the manufacture of riding and hunting clothing. To this day, the typical Huntsman suit is made of tweed , which comes from the island of Islay in the Inner Hebrides . Typical for Huntsman are the "Slack Pocket" with a button, a close-fitting silhouette, a pronounced but still natural shoulder line and a jacket with high hips. The suits themselves are made upstairs in the house on Savile Row.
Customers
Well-known customers of Huntsman were people like Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Winston Churchill , the English King Edward VIII and the Rolling Stones . For the television series Downton Abbey , Huntsman made the tailcoats for the character of Lord Grantham.
Remarks
- ↑ a b Christopher Hibbert: H. Huntsman and Sons Ltd. in: Christopher Hibbert, Ben Weinreb, John Keay, Julia Keay (eds.): The London Encyclopedia , Pan Macmillan, 2011 ISBN 0230738788
- ↑ Jemima Sissons: Savile Row's Huntsman Launches a Knitwear Line , Wall Street Journal October 23, 2014
- ↑ Pandora Sykes: The man who dressed Bing Crosby, Gregory Peck, Laurence Olivier and Dirk Bogarde , Spectator September 21, 2013
- ↑ a b c d e f Elizabeth Paton: New Management Settles in at Huntsman, the Pride of London's Savile Row , The New York Times January 10, 2016
- ↑ Aleksandar Cvetkovic: Huntsman: Fallen Heroes & Rising Stars , The Rake, called January 11, 2016
- ↑ a b Liz Connor: Meet the tailors who'll soon be shaking up Huntsman ( Memento of the original from July 12, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , GQ Magazine April 1, 2015
- ^ Angus Davies: Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, London , Escapement, called January 11, 2016
- ↑ Laure Chesters: New owners bring hedge fund money and design skills to Savile Row tailor Huntsman , The Independent January 9, 2013
Web links
Coordinates: 51 ° 30 ′ 39.2 ″ N , 0 ° 8 ′ 24.7 ″ W.