Hunting lines
Hunter Cap (also reed linen ) is a robust, green-, and braunmeliertes fabric of half-linen , cotton or viscose . It is often used for summer clothing in traditional costume style , as well as for curtains and the like.
History and use
For centuries, linen was used as a material for various types of clothing in Central Europe, especially in rural areas. With the advance of cotton towards the end of the 19th century, however, the use of this fabric decreased significantly. Around 1910, the artist Carl Mayr from Henndorf am Wallersee began to make designs for men's and women's clothing and made use of this material. Among other things, he had suits, costumes and dirndls made from light linen with a variety of green decorations (oak leaves, chamois, alpine flowers, etc.) based on his sketches . Since Henndorf was particularly popular with artists as a summer resort , Mayr's creations soon caught on with visitors to the Salzburg Festival and in the 1920s and 1930s they were widely used throughout the German-speaking region. There are also photos from this period that u. a. Show Marlene Dietrich and Max Reinhardt in hunter linen clothing.
From the side of the established folklore , which dealt with the preservation of the traditional costumes , these new developments as "summer visitor fashion" were strongly opposed. These are "extremely strange, only remotely reminiscent of an original costume", there is a risk that they would "penetrate back into the people in their alienated, distorted form and gradually replace the original." However, this criticism did not diminish particularly in urban circles.
Today traditional clothing made of hunter's linen is widespread and is worn a lot, especially in Vienna and the city of Salzburg , especially by younger members of the traditionally-minded “better society”.
Individual evidence
- ↑ stofflexikon.com: Jägerleinen
- ↑ Franz C. Lipp et al. a. (Ed.): Traditional costume in Austria. Past and present . Christian Brandstätter Verlag, Vienna 1984, ISBN 3-85447-028-2 , p. 231 f.
- ↑ z. B. Hanns Koren / Leopold Kretzenbacher (eds.): People and homeland. Festschrift for Viktor von Geramb . Verlag Anton Pustet, Graz u. a., 1949, p. 10 f.
- ↑ Lipp, p. 259, note 1