John Bachar

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John Bachar on Gray Ghost's exit in Tuolumne Meadows in the mid-1980s
Ron Kauk climbs the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c) route at Medlicott Dome , Tuolumne Meadows (2006)

John M. Bachar (born March 23, 1957 in Los Angeles , † July 5, 2009 at Mammoth Lakes ) was an American climber . He was known for his spectacular free solo ascents. He is considered one of the fathers of modern sport climbing and was the first to climb numerous difficult climbing routes all over the world.

John Bachar was born in 1957 and grew up as the son of a math professor in Los Angeles , California . He began climbing in California at Stoney Point in Chatsworth Park North . His climbing partner at the time, John Long, encouraged him to climb routes free-solo. As early as the early 1970s, he managed the free solo ascent of the route Double Cross difficulty 5.7 (American scale) in Joshua Tree National Park and difficult boulders such as Planet X (V6 boulder scale ) and So High (V5). In Yosemite National Park he was able to climb routes such as New Dimensions (5.11a) and The Nabisco Wall as well as the three- pitch route ( Waverly Wafer (5.10c), Butterballs (5.11c) and Butterfingers (5.11a)) without ropes. John Bachar, who at that time lived almost exclusively at Camp 4 in Yosemite National Park, trained there systematically and was thus able to improve his climbing ability. So he set up a fitness course and practiced one-armed pull - ups with additional weight.

He and Dave Yerian opened the 166 meter long Bachar-Yerian (5.11c) route in the Tuolumne Meadows in the east of Yosemite National Park in 1981 . It is a slab climb that is only secured with 13 bolts in the lead .

In 1986 he and Peter Croft climbed El Capitan and Half Dome in less than 14 hours. In 1990 he climbed the Enterprise (5.12b) and The Gift (5.12 c) routes free solo.

In August 2006, John Bachar broke his spine in a car accident and was unable to climb for a long time.

In Germany, John Bachar became known through his participation in the Konstein climbing meeting in 1981. By visiting the meeting, repeating the most difficult routes at the time and the first ascent of Chasin 'the trane (difficulty 9 (UIAA)) in the Krottenseer Forst, he gave the sport climbing movement in Germany greater impetus. Bachar lived in Twin Lakes near Mammoth Lakes and was a designer at Acopa International LLC , a manufacturer of climbing shoes. He was married and had a son. On July 5, 2009, he fell fatally during a free solo ascent on Dike Wall near his home.

Web links

Commons : John Bachar  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

supporting documents

  1. John Bachar in a fatal accident at Free Solo , July 6, 2009, report from UKClimbing.com