Justaucorps
As Justaucorps ( French just [e] au corps , close to / directly on the body '; English coat ) is a men's garment and the general main outerwear of the man of the late 17th and early 18th centuries. It is a development phase of the men's skirt .
Emergence
With the rise of the standing armies, Louis XIV's Minister of War, François-Michel Le Tellier, marquis de Louvois , designed a soldier's coat for the soldiers, which was also worn by the mostly aristocratic officers. Louis XIV popular when he was with the troops to put on a sleeve skirt (Hongreline ?, Kasack?), Which, apart from the equipment, differed from the soldier's skirt ("souquenille") in that it was not buttoned, but rather rather, it was arranged in long folds at the front far apart. Until the mid-1950s this was very rare. During his stay with the army in the Netherlands (1654-1659), however, and also afterwards, when he was more often at the head of the troops, he got used to this skirt. By making it into a button skirt, too, he made it into a general fashion costume from around 1664.
While retaining the short, roughly elbow-length sleeves, it was worn over a tight jacket, also known as a doublet , "pour point" , without changing it for the time being. The longer sleeves were also initially turned into a serve. The shirt sleeves also stayed the same, at most they were given even more ribbons and lace. However, if it reached to the knees and sometimes completely covered the abdomen, he almost completely displaced the folded apron skirt until the seventies, so that the wide breeches ( " vaste rhingrave " ), which were retained, came to the fore completely.
As a result, the skirt was given a body-hugging cut (without a waist), making it the "Justaucorps" . It was often trimmed with embroidered stripes, provided with deep, richly rimmed, horizontally incised pockets and adorned with a bundle of ribbons on one or both shoulders. Initially, it was used, again in the military style, to gird the hips with a wide, long sash (to hold it together), to fluff it up, and to let its edges, decorated with edges, hang down quite long.
Until the end of the seventies, some details such as buttons, trimmings and the like were changed several times. In addition, the sleeves now reached to the middle of the forearm, as in earlier button skirts, and they were turned down to the crook of the arm. The cut of the skirt has now been adapted even closer to the body, so that a slight bend in the waist was created.
1680-1700
The next change extended essentially to the whole, reshaping it more uniformly. This change, which has taken place more consistently since the beginning of the eighties, consisted on the one hand of narrowing and lengthening the sleeves, initially to deep under the crook of the arm and then to just in front of the wrist, while maintaining the narrow but oversized cuff. On the other hand, when almost completely stiffened, the waist was drawn together and the lap widened (spreading). This was combined with an overload of ornaments of gold embroidery , braids, braids, etc., for whatever purpose the pockets were now given wider and wider flaps with buttonholes, which increased the stiffening. The buttons, however, were only attached for decoration. The shoulder loops were lost.
The skirt generally remained in this form, which was quite different from the initial form, until the mid-1990s, from then until 1700 (while maintaining its basic cut) mostly in terms of fabric and furnishings, as well as the fact that it was henceforth usually just before the waist closed, regaining some lightness.
1700-1750
At the end of the reign of Louis XIV, clothing became less wrinkled again. While the Régence was usually worn very wide open, the cut was now opened less widely as a habit à la française and sometimes partially or completely buttoned from the waist up.
On the one hand, it sloped straight down with little waistline, but on the other hand, stumpers and those who wanted to be considered elegant (fashionable) left it in imitation of female clothing, the lap of the skirt and waistcoat with sewn whalebone , oilcloth, crin ( horsehair ) or paper or Stiffen other coarse fabric wide apart, bell-shaped, so that the laps stuck out from the hips to the side as well as the crinoline from the waist of the women, which shape was maintained until the end of the forties, with only a slight reduction in width. As for the rest, the Justaucorps remained without a collar, as before.
At the end of the development there is the tailcoat with rudimentary tails that have moved completely backwards.
In the 20th century, habit generally referred to the official costume and the clerical garb.
Justaucorps Gallery
Louis XIV with family
( Justaucorps around 1710 )
Louis XV
( Justaucorps around 1750 )
Joseph II
( Justaucorps around 1780 )
Habit gallery
Front: man with closed, heavily stiffened habit and jabot, 1735
literature
- Ingrid Loschek : Reclam's fashion and costume lexicon. 5th, updated and expanded edition. Philipp Reclam jun. GmbH & Co., Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 .
- Eva Nienholdt: Costume customer. A manual for collectors and enthusiasts (= library for friends of art and antiques. Vol. 15, ZDB -ID 518703-5 ). Klinkhardt & Biermann, Braunschweig 1961.
- Hermann Weiss: Costume customer. Handbook of the history of the costume, structure and equipment of the peoples of antiquity. Volume 4, Section 2: The costume from the 14th to the 16th century. Ebner & Seubert, Stuttgart 1872.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Weiss: costume studies. 1872, p. 1004.
- ↑ Nienholdt: Kostümkunde. 1961, p. 74.
- ↑ Annemarie Bönsch: History of forms of European clothing (= conservation science, restoration, technology. Vol. 1). Böhlau, Wien et al. 2001, ISBN 3-205-99341-1 , p. 137.
- ↑ Gisela Krause, Gertrud Lenning: Little costume studies. 12th edition. Schiele & Schön, Berlin 1998, ISBN 3-7949-0629-2 , p. 74.
- ^ Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary. 2005, p. 283.
- ^ François Boucher : A history of costume in the west. New enlarged edition, with an additional chapter by Yvonne Deslandres. Thames and Hudson, London 1987, ISBN 0-500-01416-7 , p. 258.
- ↑ After Carl Köhler edited by Emma von Sichart: Practical costume studies in 600 pictures and cuts. Volume 2: From the middle of the 16th century to the year 1870. Bruckmann, Munich 1926, p. 330.
- ↑ Norah Waugh: The Cut of Men's Clothes. Faber & Faber, 1964, London p. 16.
- ^ Nancy Bradfield: Historical costumes of England. From the eleventh to the twentieth century. 3rd edition, entirely revised, reprinted. Eric Dobby, Orpington 1997, ISBN 1-85882-039-1 , p. 101.
- ↑ Weiss: costume studies. 1872, p. 1005.
- ↑ Nienholdt: Kostümkunde. 1961, p. 75.
