Sautanz (climbing route)
The climbing route Sautanz in the Franconian Switzerland is one of the world's first climbing routes , with the degree of difficulty "IX" ( UIAA rated). It is the first route of this degree in Germany.
Inspection history
The tour on the upper Gößweinsteiner walls near Gößweinstein was first climbed on April 13, 1981 by Kurt Albert ( Rotkreuz ). The original route was rated IX +.
Kurt Albert became aware of the wall area on the Upper Gößweinsteiner Walls as early as May 1979 and drilled the approximately 20 m long route in July 1979. It wasn't until a year and a half later that he began the first serious attempts at climbing with his friends Norbert Bätz and Wolfgang Güllich. Kurt Albert only managed to climb the climb after about twenty attempts, before he always failed on the last difficult move. On the occasion of the climb, a bottle of wine with dancing pigs on the label was emptied. This gave rise to the route name Sautanz . At the end of 1981 the hooks were removed from the route in protest against the drilling of the route from above. The hooks in the upper part were soon replaced, but the hooks in the lower part were not added again until the end of the 1990s, so that this part had to be secured with clamping wedges .
The second ascent was made by the American John Bachar , the first red point ascent by Wolfgang Güllich in May 1981, who also climbed the route free-solo in 1987 . The Australian Luise Shepard managed the first women's ascent in August 1983.
Individual evidence
- ^ Hans Diefenbach: Boulder magazine , Boulder-Verlag, Nuremberg, 1981.
- ↑ Kurt Albert: Fight Gravity , tmms-Verlag, Korb, 2005, pp. 80f.
Coordinates: 49 ° 46 ′ 7.8 " N , 11 ° 19 ′ 43.2" E