Uli Richter

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Uli Richter (born December 28, 1926 in Potsdam , † July 8, 2021 in Berlin ) was a German fashion designer .

Life

Richter was born in Potsdam in 1926, where his father owned a drugstore. He obtained secondary school leaving certificate and began an apprenticeship in a photo drugstore in order to later take over the family business. In the course of the Second World War , however, he was drafted shortly afterwards at the age of 16 for the Reich Labor Service , then served on the Western Front and was an American prisoner of war until 1945 . Due to a damaged lung, he was unable to continue his teaching. Instead, he completed an apprenticeship as a qualified textile merchant from 1946 to 1948 at the Technical College for Textile Industry and Fashion in the City of Berlin. He then began an accountant traineeship in the Berlin fashion house Horn. Influenced by his experiences there, Richter decided to become a fashion designer. His first model dress, "Marcelle", a summer dress made of dark blue wool georgette with a quilted pleated skirt (1949), sold well. In 1952 Richter switched to competitor S & E Modelle (formerly Schröder & Wegeringhausen), where he worked as chief stylist and managing director. He had his international breakthrough as a fashion designer in 1957 when he won first prize at the International Cotton Festival in Venice for his bead-embroidered evening dress with a velvet coat. The company has now been renamed S & E Modelle Uli Richter.

In 1959 Richter became self-employed and founded Uli Richter Modelle GmbH together with Dorothea Köhlich, who had already come to S & E Modelle with him from Horn. The following year the company moved to Kurfürstendamm 182/183. In 1962 it was the first in Germany to offer a ready-to-wear collection (“uli richter special”). The collection was industrially manufactured abroad. Richter designed a fashion that should be wearable for as many women as possible. It was relatively simple and characterized by clear cuts, harmonious color combinations and unusual combinations of materials. Richter was one of the new designers who shaped the "Berlin chic", whereby he himself described his fashion as international, not as related to a city.

Richter's clientele included a number of public figures. In 1965 he designed the bridal state for Marie Cécile von Prussia (* 1942), daughter of Louis Ferdinand von Prussia . From 1970 to 1974, Rut Brandt wore Richter's models on state visits. Other well-known customers of his were Gracia Patricia von Monaco , Hildegard Knef , Lilli Palmer and Aenne Burda . At Expo '70 , Richter took on the equipment of the Japanese hostesses for the German pavilion. From 1973 and 1976 he designed a collection for the German Lufthansa . He was also able to gain a foothold in the American market and supplied the I. Magnin fashion department store, among others. From 1971 Richter offered bags and suitcases to match the clothes and in 1973/1974 he introduced a men's collection. In 1973 he opened another fashion store on Brienner Strasse in Munich. At its peak, Richter's company employed 279 people and produced six collections a year. In 1978 it was renamed “Uli Richter Couture - Modellkonfektion” and the ready-to-wear collection was named “Uli Richter Modell”. At the end of 1982 the company was dissolved.

In 1971 Richter taught as a guest lecturer at the Munich Master School of Fashion . In 1986 Ulrich Roloff-Momin appointed him to the chair for experimental design in clothing design at the University of the Arts in Berlin, which Richter held until 1994. In addition, Richter put together a best-of collection "Interseason", which he presented from 1986 to 1989 in Germany and Switzerland. He then ran a fashion salon in his private home in Berlin until 1998.

In 2005, the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin acquired Uli Richter's collection, which includes 661 model dresses, coats, costumes and accessories from the period 1949 to 1989 as well as 3,000 photographs and 11,000 drawings. In 2007/2008 and 2016/2017 the Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin showed highlights of his work in special exhibitions on the occasion of the 80th and 90th birthday of Richter.

Uli Richter died on July 8, 2021 in Berlin.

Exhibitions

  • 2007: Uli Richter - A Berlin Fashion History , Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin , Berlin.
  • 2016: Uli Richter Revisited - fashion thinker, teacher, inspiration , Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin, Berlin.

literature

  • Christine Waidenschlager, Gesa Kessemeier (ed.): Uli Richter: a Berlin fashion story. (Catalog for the exhibition: Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, September 13, 2007 to January 6, 2008.) DuMont, Cologne 2007, ISBN 3-8321-9047-3 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Berlin chic from Potsdam. In: Märkische Allgemeine . December 27, 2016. Retrieved September 7, 2020.
  2. ↑ Wall texts. Kulturforum, arts and crafts museum. Uli Richter Revisited - fashion thinker, teacher, inspiration smart.smb.museum. Retrieved September 7, 2020.
  3. ↑ a b biography of Uli Richter smart.smb.museum. November 30, 2016. Retrieved September 7, 2020.
  4. ↑ a b Iris Braun: "Berliner Chic". Uli Richter, Revisited. In: Goethe-Institut website , December 2016. Accessed September 7, 2020.
  5. ↑ Christine Waidenschlager, Gesa Kessemeier (ed.): Uli Richter: a Berlin fashion history. DuMont, Cologne 2007, p. 34.
  6. ↑ Tina Hüttl: Post-war couturier Uli Richter. The fashion thinker. In: Süddeutsche Zeitung . December 16, 2007.
  7. ↑ Christine Waidenschlager, Gesa Kessemeier (ed.): Uli Richter: a Berlin fashion history. DuMont, Cologne 2007, p. 46.
  8. ↑ Yuki Schubert: 6:01 pm Dressed Grace Kelly and Hildegard Knef: Designer Uli Richter died at the age of 94. In: n-tv.de. Retrieved July 9, 2021 .
  9. ↑ Uli Richter. A Berlin fashion story. September 13, 2007 to January 6, 2008, arts and crafts museum smb.museum. Retrieved September 7, 2020.
  10. ↑ Every woman is cool blue in FAZ on December 28, 2016, page 12
personal data
SURNAME Judge, Uli
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH December 28, 1926
PLACE OF BIRTH Potsdam
DATE OF DEATH July 8, 2021
PLACE OF DEATH Berlin