Baju Kurung

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Malay Woman in Traditional Baju Kurung (circa 1930)

The Baju Kurung (Jawi:باجو كوروڠ) is a traditional Malay costume translated as "closed dress". This type of costume is the national costume of Malaysia .

In Indonesia , it is one of the country's many regional garments most commonly seen on the island of Sumatra , where many women of the Malay and Minangkabau ethnic groups wear it. Baju Kurung can also be seen in Singapore and Thailand .

history

Malay women wearing baju kurung in Malaya (circa 1950)

The early Baju Kurung was longer and looser than today's cut. It was popularized in the late 19th century by Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor .

The Baju Kurung has been reported to "not only survive, but thrive" in modern Malaysia, indicating its popularity during the Islamization of Malaysia in the 1970s and 1980s.

properties

Although Baju Kurung is the generic name of the clothing for men and women, in Malaysia the female dress is called Baju Kurung while the male dress is called Baju Melayu . It is usually worn with a sarong .

Two versions of the costume are popular. One is the Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga and the other is the Baju Kurung Cekak Musang . The main difference between these two fashion styles is the cut on the neck, where the Teluk Belanga style has no collar and the neckline is sewn in the style of the Tulang Belut (eel spines or bones). The Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga comes, as the name suggests, from Teluk Belanga on the island of Singapore , which was previously the capital of the state of Johor. On the other hand, the Cekak Musang style has a stand-up collar with holes for five buttons, including two buttons for the collar.

description

Women from Palembang in Baju Kurung

A Baju Kurung is a full-length, loose-fitting dress consisting of a skirt and a blouse. The skirt is made of a long fabric with folds on one side; The blouse is collarless, has long sleeves and stretches between the hips and knees. The dress is sometimes made of silk imported from Japan, South Korea, China, Taiwan, Turkey or India, or from the Malaysian states of Terengganu or Kelantan . Modern Baju Kurung usually uses vivid colors and geometric patterns.

Traditionalists prefer fabrics from the eastern states of Peninsula Malaysia, Terengganu and Kelantan, where the culture of batik and other handcrafted fabrics is still strong.

In the more conservative states of northern Malaysia, a woman often wears a Baju Kurung with a headscarf (a tudung).

Cultural meaning

The Baju Kurung is also worn by non-Malay women (including ethnic minorities of Malaysia's ethnic Chinese, Indians, and Native Americans). This may be due in part to the fact that the Baju Kurung is one of the recognized clothing styles for female civil servants and one of the recognized uniform styles for female students. However, the peak sales are found in the month of Ramadan on the Muslim calendar, mainly due to the upcoming " Hari Raya Aidilfitri " (Malay for Eid al-Fitr) after the end of Ramadan, which is celebrated by Muslims worldwide. The Baju Kurung is also used as a school uniform.

literature

  • Sylva Frisk: Submitting to God: women and Islam in urban Malaysia . NIAS Press, Kopenhangen 2009, ISBN 978-87-7694-525-1 , p. 195-196 .
  • Vigdis Broch-Due, Ingrid Rudie, Tone Bleie: Carved flesh / cast selves: gendered symbols and social practices (=  Cross-Cultural Perspectives on Women . Band 8 ). Berg, 1993, ISBN 0-85496-725-7 , ISSN  1068-8536 , p. 90-91 .

Individual evidence

  1. a b SYIDA LIZTA AMIRUL IHSAN: Trends: For all occasions ( English ) New Straits Times. September 6, 2009. Archived from the original on May 15, 2010. Retrieved on May 24, 2019.
  2. a b c d Thomas Fuller: In Era of T-shirts, Kurung Survives: Malaysians' Garment of Choice . In: The New York Times . March 2, 2000 ( nytimes.com ).
  3. Vigdis Broch-Due, Ingrid Rudie, Tone Bleie: Carved flesh / cast selves: gendered symbols and social practices (=  Cross-Cultural Perspectives on Women . Band 8 ). Berg, 1993, ISBN 0-85496-725-7 , ISSN  1068-8536 , p. 90-91 .
  4. Sylva Frisk: Submitting to God: women and Islam in urban Malaysia . NIAS Press, Kopenhangen 2009, ISBN 978-87-7694-525-1 , p. 195-196 .