Berchtesgaden traditional costume
The Berchtesgadener Tracht is a costume worn in the Berchtesgadener Land , the southern part of the district of the same name . It is named after Berchtesgaden , the central market of the distribution area, which was independent as the prince-provost of Berchtesgaden until 1803 .
The traditional costume is maintained by traditional costume associations , the Berchtesgaden Christmas shooters and the music bands in the Berchtesgaden area. Many residents of the distribution area also wear the traditional costume without being organized in an association. The Berchtesgaden costume is - like today's Upper Bavarian mountain costumes in general - not a historical garb in the scientific sense. It did not develop until the end of the 19th century with the spread of traditional costume clubs in Upper Bavaria.
General
The equipment of the costume grows with age and reputation. For women, the costume differs fundamentally depending on age and marital status.
Men and boys
cap
There are two basic hat shapes for Berchtesgaden traditional costume:
- The shooting hat
- The round disk
Similar to the uniform headgear, it is generally not removed by "traditional costumers" unless they enter a place of worship or take part in an outdoor worship service.
Hat ornament
Various hunting trophies are common as hat decorations. Chamois beards , game cock feathers or Roagaspitz (wing feather of the Indian darter) are worn depending on the club membership . Furthermore, badges or the like are sometimes added to the hats, whereby the jewelry, as already mentioned above, grows with age and reputation.
Shirt (path)
The original shirt with a bridge is mostly made of ivory-colored linen and has mother-of-pearl buttons. The initials are sometimes also embroidered in old German script on the bridge.
Binding
Instead of a tie, a so-called bindl is worn. It consists of a diamond-shaped silk scarf approx. 10 to 15 cm long.
knife
The knife has either a horn or "Goasfuas" handle. The horn handles are usually studded with silver or decorated with carvings. The "Goasfuas" (goat's foot) is in reality mostly a deer foot into which the blade has been worked.
Suspenders
The strap is between 2 and 3 cm wide, crossed at the back (often held by a silver clasp) and has the clasp over the table. More elaborate tables have old embroidery or horn decorations.
Lederhose
The original Berchtesgaden leather pants are made by hand. They are available as short and knee breeches, and long lederhosen are occasionally worn. The stockings are worn over long leather pants. The shorts have a moss green trim. The design of the ornaments is mostly based on very old templates. The trousers have a bib at the front, are tied with ribbons on the sides and have a knife pocket on which the initials can be embroidered. Simple cross-stitching or the S-leaf pattern are used as seams. Schuhplattler often have thinner pants to make the blow louder.
Cloth trousers
On festive occasions, long black cloth trousers are worn instead of leather trousers.
Waistcoat (Laibi)
A green "loaf" is worn with the costume. The back is made of black silk, the front is made of felt , which in turn is equipped with curved "swallow" or box pockets and silver buttons. At the top, the vest is closed with one or two silver button chains.
Joppe
The Berchtesgadener Joppe is worn in the versions light gray (mostly in traditional costume clubs) and blue-gray (mostly by the Christmas shooters and outside of the clubs). The jacket is not slit at the back and has green felt applications.
Socks
Dark gray woolen stockings reaching to the knee are worn, with shorts also white stockings and detached "calf stockings", or also called "Loferl", with dark green edges and decorations.
Shoes
Haferl shoes made of black leather with side lacing are worn with traditional costumes and, in winter, ankle-high black lace-up boots, so-called rifle shoes, are worn instead .
Jewellery
In addition to other jewelry, brooches or needles are often worn on the jacket (mostly awards from the prize plate or other honors). If these are not too big, they can also adorn the hat. Between the two outermost front buttons of the lederhosen there is sometimes a charivari (pronounced: shariwari), a chain with various old coins, claws, horn carvings or the like. The costume also includes a silver or silver-colored pocket watch with a spring cover.
Women's and girls' costume
cap
Girls wear the disc (made of green felt) with eagle fluff. Typical of the Berchtesgaden women's costume is the likewise round “Berchtesgaden women's hat” with a cord. It is often decorated with gold tassels.
garment
The traditional costumes of dirndls and women include a bodice with a skirt hook attached to it, a hand-lined skirt of the same color with a white blouse, apron, white silk stockings and black leather costume shoes. The typical color for skirt and bodice is black (often with green embroidery), for girls it is green. A specialty of Berchtesgaden is wearing a "beaded" shawl with hand-crocheted lace that is thrown into folds.
Married (older) women wear so-called "Röcki" made of black hand-strung silk as traditional costume. It consists of the upper part with a heavy bodice, the so-called Schalk, the corresponding calf-length skirt and apron.
The "Zegger", a woven handbag, is worn for this.
Jewellery
In addition to the obligatory hat jewelry, jewelry includes a velvet collar, Krandl jewelry or a multi-row necklace ("goiter chain") as well as hair jewelry and earrings.
literature
- Oskar v. Zaborsky election sites: The traditional costume of the Berchtesgadener Land in words and pictures. Hölzel, Vienna 1943, DNB 578454238 . (Series of Berchtesgadener folklore writings. Ed. By Rudolf Kriss )