Three point rule
The three-point rule (also known as the three-point rule ) is a concept of climbing technique in climbing , which provides for keeping three limbs in contact with the rock at all times. For a long time it was taught as a strict law, but today it is considered obsolete in the sense of an always valid basic rule.
Climbing according to the three-point rule means a relatively static climbing style: three limbs are fixed to holding points, with the body in a stable position. Only one hand or foot is moved to reach or climb further or used to hang the rope . In concrete terms, this means that when one hand reaches forward, the other hand holds a handle and both feet are on steps; analogously, when walking further, the other foot is on one step and both hands are holding onto handles. Due to the constant rock contact at three breakpoints, the control of the center of gravity is much easier and the risk of losing balance is correspondingly lower.
The three-point rule primarily offers advantages in terms of safety. If the climber loses a hold, for example by slipping or breaking a grip or step, he has a better chance of still being able to hold on to the wall. In addition, any fragile breakpoints are stressed as little as possible due to the better weight distribution. However , this partially limits the climbing possibilities, especially in the case of greater difficulties.
history
Until the 1950s, the three-point rule was strictly adhered to. Overcoming the three-point rule is often attributed to the American climbing pioneer John Gill , who established novel techniques such as the dynamo (dynamic climbing pull) and, according to his own statements, began to ignore the rule before 1955. In the 1960s, boulderers in the USA were already experimenting with dynamos on a regular basis and also inventing other playful forms of bouldering, in which the three-point rule was no longer adhered to, such as the hands-free climbing of plates by Bob Kamp.
In Europe, too, the rule was still largely unrestricted in the 1960s, and so Eidenschink , for example, still described the three-point rule as a rule that must be observed in 1964, while Pierre Alain was already opening bouldering problems in the Fontainebleau bouldering area at the same time , the dynamic techniques and required giving up the rule. Therefore, the rule was soon interpreted a little less strictly: In 1975 a collective of authors wrote: "The movements are carried out in such a way that, as a rule, only one stopping point or base is given up". With the inserted “usually”, the authors, who come from Saxon free climbing , leave room for non-compliance with the rule in certain situations.
In normal rock climbing with rope, the break with the dogma “three-point rule” came with the beginning of sport climbing . With the development of modern sport climbing, higher levels of difficulty were reached, with the more difficult routes often not offering enough holding options for three extremities. In addition, improved safety options and better protection ensured acceptance of a higher risk of falling. The newly developing bouldering sport also led to a significant improvement in climbing technology. In 1981 , in the first German-language textbook on modern sport climbing, the author Sepp Gschwendtner consequently and explicitly wrote that the principle of the three-point rule "must be broken every now and then" in difficult areas.
As a rule that is not dogmatically applied, the three-point rule is still justified in modern sport climbing . In the beginner training in particular, the application of the rule, in the sense of a specification, is used to consolidate the elementary climbing technique. Even in alpine climbing , especially on serious , poorly secured and fragile routes, the three-point rule has retained a certain validity to this day.
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Otto Eidenschink : Correct mountaineering in rock and ice for hikers and climbers - the technique in the rock . 5th edition. F. Bruckmann, Munich 1964, p. 39 .
- ^ Katrin Kiermeier: Climbing Lexicon. (No longer available online.) In: Learn to climb safely ... the interactive climbing school. Archived from the original on February 29, 2008 ; Retrieved March 1, 2008 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ↑ Thomas Strobl: Free climbing. Technique and training. With special tips for artificial climbing walls . "1st edition. Falken Verlag, Niedernhausen 1992, ISBN 3-8068-1251-9 , p. 50 .
- ↑ a b Online courses basic knowledge of climbing, Part I: Movement technology. ALPIN - Das BergMagazin, August 23, 2005, accessed on March 1, 2008 .
- ^ A b c d John Gill: Reflections & Commentaries: Page 3: Kinaesthetics & Dynamics. January 28, 2007, accessed March 1, 2008 .
- ↑ Kai Hoffmann: Bouldering. Archived from the original on June 8, 2008 ; accessed on September 1, 2015 .
- ^ John Gill: Reflections & Commentaries: Page 3.1: Ethereal Bouldering. No hands problems. January 28, 2007, accessed March 1, 2008 .
- ^ Author collective under the direction of Wolfram Kind: Bergsteiger. A textbook for trainers and active people . Sportverlag, Berlin 1975, p. 32 .
- ^ Sepp Gschwendtner: Safe free climbing . 1st edition. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1981, ISBN 3-7633-6052-2 , p. 17 .
