Dynamo (climbing technique)
As Dynamo (dynamic train) or short Dyno is known in climbing a technique in which the climber's kinetic energy used to be able to achieve a grip.
technology
When climbing, an attempt is usually made to hold the body in a position that is as energy-saving as possible while reaching further with one hand. However, especially in the higher difficulty areas , situations often arise in which this is not possible. This is particularly the case with wide gripping distances, but steepness (e.g. overhangs ), small grips and an unfavorable arrangement of the grips can make reaching the next grip from a static position more difficult; smaller climbers are also disadvantaged in this regard.
If this happens, the climber must try to move to a greater height. To do this, the body is pulled towards the wall with momentum, the hand reaching further must reach the grip and fix it before the body starts moving downwards again. In extreme cases, the dynamo can lead to a complete removal from the rock, i.e. to a jump. The dynamo is a very complicated sequence of movements and is physically and mentally very demanding, it requires a great deal of concentration and determination.
history
For a long time, static climbing according to the three-point rule was propagated in climbing . With the development of modern sport climbing , an expansion of the climbing spectrum became necessary and dynamic climbing became common. An important role in the establishment of the dynamo played the Boulder sports embodied in particular by John Gill , the inspired by the techniques of the apparatus gymnastics applies, as a precursor of the dynamic climbing.
literature
- Stefan Glowacz / Wolfgang Pohl: Really free climbing . BLV, Munich 1989, ISBN 3-405-13572-9 .
- Paul Martin: An Evaluation of the Validity of Dyno Test in Climbers . In: Training for Climbing . 2005.