Edmond Roudnitska

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Edmond Roudnitska (* 1905 , † 1996 ) was a French master perfumer and author. He became known for famous perfumes such as B. Diorissimo and Eau Sauvage by Dior or Femme by Rochas . Many of his inventions are still in production today. His son is the perfumer Michel Roudnitska.

Live and act

In 1926 he began his olfactory training in Grasse ( France ). From the mid-1930s he then worked for several years at de Laire , an internationally known manufacturer of fragrance raw materials in Issy les Moulineaux at the time. In 1942 he met his future wife, Thérèse Delvaux, a brilliant young chemical engineer who worked in the pharmaceutical department of the same company.

In 1943 he met the fashion designer Marcel Rochas, who asked him to develop a perfume for him. Parfum Femme became Roudnitska's entry ticket to the world of haute couture. In 1946 he and his wife founded their Art et parfum laboratory in the Paris suburb of Bécon-les-Bruyères to develop perfumes. In 1949 he moved his laboratory to Cibris near Grasse, where he worked until his death.

In particular, his fragrances for Christian Dior established Roudnitska's reputation as one of the greatest perfumers of the twentieth century. The milestone Diorissimo , a perfume based on the scent of lily of the valley, represented a special development step in the field of perfumery. Unlike rose or jasmine , the scent of lily of the valley cannot be extracted from the flower. Roudnitska circumvented this problem by developing an almost perfect reconstruction of this fragrance.

Fragrances

Christian Dior perfumes

  • Diorama (1948)
  • Eau Fraîche (1955)
  • Diorissimo (1956)
  • Eau Sauvage (1966)
  • Diorella (1972)
  • Dior-Dior (1976)

Elizabeth Arden perfumes

  • It's You (1939)
  • On Dit (1952)

Hermès perfumes

  • Eau d'Hermès (1951)
  • Grande Eau d'Hermès (1987)

Rochas perfumes

  • Femme (1944)
  • Mousseline (1946)
  • Mouche (1947)
  • Mustache (1949)
  • La Rose (1949)

Various

  • Le Parfum de Thérèse. Originally developed for his wife Thérèse in the early 1950s. Today's owner of the trademark is Frederic Malle, who has been producing the perfume under this name since 2000.
  • Ocean Rain Mario Valentino ® . Men's fragrance for Mario Valentino (1990). This was Roudnitska's last creation.

bibliography

  • Edmond Rudnitska. Le Parfum. Collection: Que sais-je? . Presses Universitaires de France - PUF, Paris 1980 (5th edition 2000), ISBN 978-2-13-046057-2
  • Odile Moréno, René Bourdon, Edmond Roudnitska (André Chastel: Foreword): L'Intimité du Parfum . Olivier Perrin, Paris 1974, ISBN 978-2-85053-001-2 .
  • Edmond Rudnitska: Former les Hommes, Mythe ou Réalité? . Olivier Perrin, Paris 1975.
  • L'Esthétique en Question: Introduction à une Esthétique de l'Odorat . Presses Universitaires de France - PUF, Paris.
  • Une Vie au Service du Parfum (essays since 1938). Thérèse Vian, Paris 1991, ISBN 2-908883-01-5 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ art-et-parfum.com
  2. ↑ art-et-parfum.com
  3. ↑ Luca Turin, Tania Sanchez: Perfumes: the guide . Viking, New York City 2008, ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9 .
personal data
SURNAME Roudnitska, Edmond
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French master perfumer and author
DATE OF BIRTH 1905
DATE OF DEATH 1996