Friesennerz

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Friesennerz Gala

The Friesennerz (also: Ostfriesennerz ) is the metaphorical-ironic name for rain protection clothing that was popular between around 1970 and 1985. It is originally a permanently waterproof textile for professional fishermen and sailing ( oilskin ). In addition to functionality, it is characterized by great visibility (bright yellow, orange). Polyester is used as the carrier material , the water resistance results from a PVC coating in different thicknesses depending on the degree of use.

Characteristic are the large hood , voluminous pockets with flaps and a front strip with press studs. The seams are either welded or, if they are sewn, glued from the inside.

Coming from the coast, this protective clothing intended for maritime purposes experienced a boom on the mainland. The popularity of the Frisian mink was described as the "realization of communism in the fashionable field", as there was hardly anyone who would not have worn this jacket or who could not have afforded it.

The classic Frisian mink

The principle of the reversible rain jacket, which can be worn on both sides, has contributed to the success, designed in 1968 by Jan E. Ansteen Nielsson, the founder of Jeantex from the small Danish town of Hørve . This design is now considered the classic Frisian mink. The cut of the reversible jacket was more like a Bundeswehr parka than that of an oil jacket. In the original version, a layer of synthetic rubber (rubber coating) was applied to the viscose (rayon, acetate ) carrier material, which can also be worn outside , which was replaced in 1985 by a more durable PVC coating. In addition to the dominant combination (blue viscose / yellow rubber or PVC) there were a number of other color combinations. In addition to the large pockets and the wide hood, other useful details have been thought of, such as one or two breast pockets, a zip concealed by a button placket and eyelets for ventilation at the sleeve base.

Friesennerz in the GDR

The Friesennerz was also current in the GDR from 1983 to 1987 and was produced in-house. In order to avoid trademark disputes with Jeantex, the GDR Friesennerz (brand elpico , manufacturer: VEB Jugendmode) underwent a few other changes in addition to its name - it was officially called the weather jacket - it was available in a longer and a shorter version. The yellow rain side was made of soft PVC, the blue side of nylon or mixed fabric. On the yellow side it had shiny press studs on the pockets and one between the end of the zipper and the hem.

The material of the reversible weather jacket was not too robust and at 120 marks it was very expensive.

Name and popularity

Friesian mink for dachshunds

The designation "Friesennerz" or "Ostfriesennerz" for the oil jackets and their variants came up late with the Ostfriesen jokes and also ended the trend wave, but has retained its permanent place in everyday language. However, there were other factors as well. Technical progress made more breathable materials possible. Furthermore, the market was so saturated that production and marketing on a large scale was no longer worthwhile, and the next generation switched to branded products with status character.

Although the Friesennerz is rarely seen in the streets, it has a steadily growing fan base on the Internet, who commemorate this cult garment in forums and on self-designed websites. Although it is available as new both in the old form and in a new design, the used rubberized Friesian mink fetch high prices at Internet auctions.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Sybille Simon-Zülch: The end of the color yellow. Why the alternative movement renounced its Ostfriesennerz. A memory. ( Memento from November 8, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) Mare No. 11, Wind & Wetter. December 1998 / January 1999.
  2. ↑ Data and facts about elpico at elpico-friesennerz.de, accessed on February 23, 2014.

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