Germaine Schroeder

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Germaine Schroeder and Jean Reutlinger, 1913

Germaine Schroeder (* 1889 ; † 1983 ) was a French bookbinder .

life and work

Germaine Schroeder was active as a bookbinder from 1913 and founded her first studio in Paris at 22 rue Denfert-Rochereau before the outbreak of the First World War. The fashion designer Jacques Doucet commissioned her to handcraft the first of the numerous cover decors designed for him by Pierre Legrain . Germaine Schroeder was in a relationship with the French photographer Jean Reutlinger at the time . Together they published poetry in La Vasque magazine . At the beginning of the First World War, Reutlinger was called up for military service. He asked Germaine Schroeder to visit his garrison and gave her numerous personal documents. Reutlinger fell in the Ardennes on August 22, 1914 , whereupon Schroeder looked after his estate.

By 1925, the bookbinder had acquired a reputation that brought her clientele such as the politician Louis Barthou , Coco Chanel and her entourage as well as the writer Jean Cocteau . In the same year she showed her work at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et industriels modern . Schroeder married the French playwright, screenwriter and former head of La Revue magazine , Bernard Zimmer . Then she continued her workshop under her maiden name Schroeder. In 1930 she moved the studio to Rue Bonaparte 7 and then to Rue des Grands-Augustins 3 . In 1936 Mademoiselle Magdelaine took over the workshop.

The sons Jacques (* before or in 1924) and Pierre (* 1927, film actor) came from the connection with Bernard Zimmer .

reception

After the writer and librarian Yves Peyré , Schroeder was “one of the first female bookbinders to venture on the Art Deco path . [...] Germaine Schroeder is at the forefront of the inventors of Art Déco. "

In 1932, the art author and collector Ernest de Crauzat ruled that Germaine Schroeder's bindings were “brilliant in their colors and well executed” and “held a very honorable place in contemporary production”.

literature

  • Julien Fléty: Dictionnaire des relieurs français ayant exercé de 1800 à nos jours. Technorama, 1988, ISBN 978-2-90491-807-0 .
  • Mel Byars: The Design Encyclopedia. John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken 1994, ISBN 978-0-47102-455-2 , p. 504.
  • Gordon Norton Ray, George Thomas Tanselle (Eds.): The Art Deco Book in France. Bibliographical Society of the University of Virginia, Charlottesville 2005, ISBN 1-88363-112-2 , pp. 100, 132, 157.
  • Reliure: Les Grands Articles d'Universalis. Encyclopaedia Universalis, Boulogne-Billancourt 2017, ISBN 978-2-34100-695-8 , p. 36.

Individual evidence

  1. Valéry (Paul) illustré. L'Âme et la Danse, Dialogue Socratique illustré. In: alde.fr
  2. a b Schroeder, Germaine (1889-1983). In: Système universitaire de documentation
  3. ^ A b Jean-Baptiste de Proyart: Coco Chanel, Misia Sert & Germaine Schroeder. In: deproyart.com
  4. ^ John Léo (dit Jean) Reutlinger (1891-22 août 1914). Portrait de la poétesse Germaine Schroeder dans son appartement du 52, rue Madame. In: Bibliothèque nationale de France
  5. Geert Buelens: Europe poet and the First World War . Suhrkamp, ​​Frankfurt 2014, ISBN 978-3-518-73707-1 , p. 87.
  6. Jean-Pierre Bourgeron: Les Reutlinger. Photographes à Paris 1850–1937 . Grove Art, Paris 1979, ISBN 2-903097-02-X , pp. 55, 56.
  7. Exposition Internationale des Arts décoratifs et industriels modern, Volume 7, p. 224.
  8. Sylviane Coyault: Giraudoux européen de l'entre-deux-guerres. Université de Clermont-Ferrand II. Center de recherches sur les littératures modern et contemporaines, Association des amis de Jean Giraudoux. Presses Univ Blaise Pascal, 2008, ISBN 978-2-84516-376-8 , p. 152.
  9. ^ C. Delagrave, G. Duffy (Eds.): Zimmer (Bernard). In: Qui êtes-vous? Annuaire des comtemporains; notices biographiques 1924. Maison Ehret, Paris 1924, p. 784.
  10. Pierre Zimmer. In: alchetron.com of January 5, 2018.
  11. Valéry (Paul) illustré. L'Âme et la Danse, Dialogue Socratique illustré. In: alde.fr
    Original text: Germaine Schroeder est lun des premiers relieurs à se risquer sur la voie de l'Art déco. […] Germaine Schroeder est au premier plan des inventeurs de l'Art déco. (Y. Peyré).
  12. Valéry (Paul) illustré. L'Âme et la Danse, Dialogue Socratique illustré. In: alde.fr
    Original text: En 1932, Ernest de Crauzat (Écrivain d'art et collectionneur [1] ) écrivait que les reliures de Germaine Schroeder, “brillantes de couleurs, et de bonne exécution, tiennent une place fort honorable dans la production contemporaine. "