Jacques Doucet (fashion designer)

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Jacques Doucet (1903), caricature by Leonetto Cappiello
Creation by Jacques Doucet in La gazette du bon ton , 1912

Jacques Doucet (born February 19, 1853 in Paris , † October 30, 1929 there ) was a French fashion designer , art collector and patron .

life and work

His career began with the design of fabrics and stage costumes, but as early as 1871 he was also selling elegant evening dresses in his father's shop, which were heavily inspired by the fashion of Charles Frederick Worth . Under the influence of the design of Paul Poiret , who worked in his fashion house from 1896 to 1900, and the reform dress movement , he turned to a more avant-garde style.

Collectors and patrons

As a wealthy man, Doucet put together various collections. One of his great passions was building two major libraries. He was supported by André Breton , who worked part-time as a librarian for him. On the one hand, Doucet built a large art library in which publications on art, exhibition and auction catalogs, but also manuscripts can be found. In total, this collection comprises 100,000 books, 15,000 photographs, 10,000 graphics and 1,000 drawings. These include various works on paper by artists such as Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec , Francisco de Goya , Käthe Kollwitz , Carl Larsson Édouard Manet and Paul Gauguin . This collection was donated to the University of Paris as a donation during his lifetime in 1918 and formed the essential foundation of the art library of today's Institut national d'histoire de l'art . Part of this foundation are also a series of portrait sculptures by Jules Dalou ( portrait Eugène Delacroix ), Auguste Rodin ( portrait Jules Dalou ) and Antoine Bourdelle ( portrait Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres , portrait Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux ). The second library in Doucet is dedicated to modern literature. He also bequeathed this to the University of Paris in 1929. Today it is available to the public as the Bibliothèque littéraire Jacques-Doucet as a specialist library.

In addition, Doucet was an important collector of paintings and furniture with which he furnished his various apartments. At first he lived in an apartment in Paris' Rue de la Paix, then he moved to Rue de la Ville-l'Evêque, then he lived in Rue Spontini, then moved to Avenue du Bois and finally lived in a house on the Rue Saint-James in the suburb of Neuilly-sur-Seine . At the beginning, Doucet collected French paintings of the 18th century, including works by Jean-Honoré Fragonard , Jean Siméon Chardin , Antoine Watteau , Maurice Quentin de La Tour , Hubert Robert and Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun . Doucet had the majority of this art collection auctioned in 1912. After that he devoted himself mainly to the art of the 19th and 20th centuries. André Breton also advised him on building up this art collection. After his death, the collection went to his wife Jeanne (1861–1958) and his sister Marie Dubrujeaud (1854–1937). They sold some of the main works in the collection such as the paintings Demoiselles d'Avignon by Pablo Picasso (now the Museum of Modern Art , New York), Poissons rouges et palette by Henri Matisse (now the Museum of Modern Art, New York), Un veille femme avec un chapelet by Paul Cézanne (now National Gallery , London) or Iris by Vincent van Gogh (now J. Paul Getty Museum , Los Angeles). Other pictures went to the French state as a bequest from those named, or from Doucets' nephew, Jean-Édouard Dubrujeaud, and are shown today in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris . These include The Snake Charmer by Henri Rousseau , an oil sketch for the circus by Georges Seurat , Madame Jeantaud in front of the mirror by Edgar Degas and On the Beach by Édouard Manet . The great-nephew Jean Angladon-Dubrujeaud (1906–1979) and his wife Paulette Martin (1905–1988) transferred part of the Doucet Collection to the Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud. These collections have been accessible to the public at the Musée Angladon in Avignon since 1996 .

  • Henri Rousseau:
    The Snake Charmer

  • Édouard Manet:
    On the beach

  • Edgar Degas:
    Madame Jeantaud in front of the mirror

  • Vincent van Gogh:
    Iris

  • Georges Seurat:
    Circus

aftermath

Jacques Doucet also went down in world literature: Marcel Proust mentions him in his novel In Search of Lost Time :

"D'ailleurs, il ya peu de couturiers, un ou deux, Callot, quoique donnant un peu trop dans la dentelle, Doucet, Cheruit, quelquefois Paquin. Le reste sont des horreurs. "

.

literature

  • Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume lexicon. 5th edition Reclam, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 , p. 531
  • Jérôme Neutres: Jacques Doucet - Yves Saint Laurent: Vivre pour l'art . Flammarion, Paris 2015, ISBN 978-2-08-136481-3 . (with a detailed description of Jacques Doucet's art collection)
  • Chantal Georgel: Jacques Doucet: Collectionneur et mécène . Institut national d'histoire de l'art INHA, Les arts décoratifs, Paris 2016, ISBN 978-2-916914-67-1 .

Web links

Commons : Jacques Doucet  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Calvin Tomkins: Marcel Duchamp. A biography. Hanser, Munich 1999, ISBN 3-446-20110-6 , p. 296 f.
  2. ↑ Chantal Georgel: Jacques Doucet: Collectionneur et mécène , p. 172.
  3. ↑ À l'ombre des jeunes filles en fleurs , troisième partie (= À la recherche du temps perdu , Paris: Gallimard 1946 f., Vol. 5), p. 219. by Eva Rechel-Mertens , In the shadow of a young girl's bloom (= In search of lost time , Frankfurt / Main: Suhrkamp 2004, vol. 2), p. 682: “There are only a few couturiers, one or two, Callot, but he still does a little bit of lace, Doucet, Cheruit, sometimes Paquin too . The others are horrible. "
personal data
SURNAME Doucet, Jacques
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH February 19, 1853
PLACE OF BIRTH Paris
DATE OF DEATH October 30, 1929
Place of death Paris