Coco Chanel

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Coco Chanel (1928)

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (actually Gabrielle Chasnel according to her birth certificate ; born August 19, 1883 in Saumur , Pays de la Loire , † January 10, 1971 in Paris ) was an internationally known French fashion designer and entrepreneur .

Coco Chanel founded the Chanel fashion empire in the early 1910s and is considered an outstanding personality in fashion history. Due to her influence on the world of fashion, especially haute couture , she was the only person in her professional group on the list of the 100 most important people of the 20th century published by the US magazine Time in 1999 (English Time 100: The Most Important People of the Century ).

From 1913 she pioneered what was then almost revolutionary , functional women's fashion with a calf-length skirt or airy trousers, a loosely belted top and short haircut for self-confident, modern women. In the 1920s, Coco Chanel created the “ little black dress ”, which is still a classic in women's fashion. In 1922 she launched the Chanel Nº 5 perfume , considered the best-selling in the world. From the mid-1950s, her Chanel costume with a loose, mostly bordered tweed jacket and a flared skirt became world-famous.

Coco Chanel's legacy, the global company Chanel, is one of the largest and most important in the fashion industry with annual sales of more than six billion US dollars (2012).

Life

Youth and education

The Grand Café in Moulins, this is where she is nicknamed Coco by a group of officers who love to hear her sing.

There are numerous legends about Chanel's youth, to the creation of which Coco Chanel himself contributed, presumably out of shame about growing up in poor circumstances. In fact, she was born the second illegitimate daughter of the peddler Henri-Albert Chanel and the laundress Eugénie Jeanne Devolle in a poor house in Saumur on the Loire ( Anjou ). In the birth certificate issued on August 20, 1883, Chasnel was entered as the father's surname and Gabrielle as the child's first name, next to the actual form is the name Chasnel Gabrielle . Her parents did not get married until 1884. She had five siblings, two sisters, Julia (* 1882) and Antoinette (* 1887), as well as three brothers, Alphonse (* 1885), Lucien (* 1889) and Augustin (* 1891), who died after a few months.

When Gabrielle was twelve years old, her mother died. The father gave her and her older sister to an orphanage run by nuns as half - orphans , where she learned to be a seamstress . Gabrielle never saw her father again and later stated that he had emigrated to America. When she reached the age of 18, she was released from the Catholic orphanage of the Obazine Monastery . Afterwards, as a student of mercy , she received two years of free lessons in the Notre-Dame boarding school of Saint Augustin's canons in Moulins in Auvergne . At the age of 20 she worked as an employee in a trousseau and baby goods store, where she also received lodging , and privately took on jobs as a tailor .

The Grand Café in the garrison town of Moulins had guests performing as singers at the time. Gabrielle Chanel performed two songs there and in the Varieté Rotonde : Qui qu'a vu Coco? and Ko-Ko-Ri-Ko . In the audience were mainly the officers of the von Moulins Jägerregiment, whom Chanel called "Coco" after a while because of the two songs. Her nickname "Coco" probably comes from this time. In 1906, Chanel met Étienne Balsan in the health resort of Vichy , 60 km away from Moulins , where she had tried unsuccessfully as a singer and finally worked in the bathing establishments . Balsan was the wealthy and influential heir of the industrial dynasty Balsan, his father, Auguste Balsan (1836-1896), had run the textile factory of the same name, which had supplied the French army with uniforms since Napoleon Bonaparte and was mayor and administrator of the Banque de France in Châteauroux and Member of the Indre department .

Balsan's property Royallieu, where Chanel was quartered as a mistress from 1906 to 1909.

The relationship in the Belle Époque meant a mesalliance - there was a very precise distinction between official and unofficial connections - and Chanel was not even Balsan's lover, because this role was initially filled by the famous Parisian courtesan Emilienne d'Alençon . Nevertheless, she followed Balsan to his property at Royallieu near Compiègne Castle and became his mistress at the age of 23. She lived there for the next few years. Their class gap in hierarchically structured French society was large, Chanel will remain an “illegitimate” all her life, a woman who can be afforded as a lover, but who will not marry due to her humble origins. On his estate (built on the ruins of the Benedictine abbey of Saint-Jean-aux-Bois) with access to the Compiègne forest , Balsan kept a racing stable and bred horses . Here Chanel made the acquaintance of the idle and glamorous life of the chiceria, learned to ride, did sports and created clothes that matched a casual lifestyle. It was here that Chanel met her great love, the Brit Arthur "Boy" Capel.

With Balsan's financial support and his Paris apartment, Boulevard Malesherbes No 160, which he made available to her, Chanel opened a hat atelier in 1909 . Chanel's modern, unusually simple hat creations quickly enjoyed great popularity among friends of Balsan and the Parisian Haute-Volée, and were then seen on Parisian personalities and printed in fashion magazines.

Company formation

With a guarantee and a loan from her next lover, the British mine owner and friend of Balsan, Arthur ("Boy") Capel († December 21, 1919), Chanel opened a hat atelier in 1910 at 21 rue Cambon in Paris and in 1913 in the seaside resort of Deauville a fashion boutique called Chanel Modes . The Chanel company today gives the latter date as its founding date.

Early years of success

Hat model by Coco Chanel (1912)

In 1915, Coco Chanel owned fashion salons in Paris, Deauville and Biarritz , designed simple, loosely caressing dresses made of cotton jersey , thereby creating a new and functional fashion with clear lines without the usual embellishments. Chanel wore her own fashion and a modern bob-style short hairstyle . In 1918 she opened her haute couture salon at 31, Rue Cambon. Chanel's business grew rapidly. As early as 1916 she employed 300 seamstresses, was able to settle her debts with Capel and ensure her independence. In the same year the American Vogue declared Chanels fashion the "epitome of elegance ". Their fashion differed significantly from that of their competitors because of their restraint.

Chanel caricature by Georges Goursat (1919)

Capel died in a car accident in 1919. At first deeply shaken by the loss of their great love, Chanel finally decided to continue with the life's work they had started together. In 1920 Chanel bought a villa called Bel Respiro in Garches near Paris. In 1923 she moved into a city apartment at 29, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré .

In 1924, Chanel and business partners founded the perfume division Parfums Chanel in Neuilly-sur-Seine, which was initially independent of the fashion company , but in which it only held 10% of the shares. In 1931 Chanel traveled to Hollywood for a few weeks to see costumes for Gloria Swanson in Tonight or Never (1931), the Goldwyn's dancers , at the invitation of studio boss Samuel Goldwyn , who had offered her the then spectacular sum of one million dollars Girls and Ina Claire in The Greeks Had a Word for Them (1932). After Chanel's designs for Hollywood were not extravagant enough, she returned to Paris, but not without having won Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo as Chanel customers. In November 1932, Chanel showed a high-priced jewelery collection with diamonds designed together with the illustrator Paul Iribe in her private Paris apartment on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris under the name Bijoux de Diamants . As Chanel's operation in Paris in 1936 strike was, it had about 4,000 employees. In 1928 Chanel bought a plot of land in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin on the Côte d'Azur and had the glamorous Villa La Pausa built there according to her exact ideas until 1930 , which she sold in 1953. In 2015, 87 years after the purchase, the house of Chanel announced that La Pausa - the purchase price was already stated in the press at 40 million euros in 2013 - was back in company ownership.

When the war began, Coco Chanel closed her fashion company without further ado in 1939, so that all employees lost their jobs. She withdrew to the province on the Spanish border for a short time, but returned to Paris in the autumn of 1940.

As early as 1937, Coco Chanel moved into a two-room suite at the Ritz Hotel in Paris on the Place Vendôme , located at the back of the Rue Cambon, in which she then stayed and in which she also died in 1971. Her actual apartment, which had no bedroom, had been across the street above her studio on the second floor at 31, rue Cambon, since the mid-1930s. The apartment has been preserved almost unchanged.

Period of occupation and activity as an agent for the German National Socialists

After the beginning of the German occupation, in 1940, in her residence at the time, the Ritz Hotel in Paris, she met the German diplomat Hans Günther von Dincklage , son of a Prussian major and the daughter of a German businessman who was naturalized in England in 1870, as well as special representative of the Reich Main Security Office in France became her lover. Chanel was an interesting figure for the German occupiers, who had also set up their quarters in the Hotel Ritz in Paris, because of their numerous contacts in the highest circles. In 1941 she was supposed to find out important war information for Germany from the British embassy there in Madrid. One of Coco Chanel's motivation for working together may have been the internment of her nephew André Palasse, son of one of her sisters, who was actually released in the end. With the German SS officer Walter Schellenberg , Chanel arranged the secret mission Operation Modellhut in Berlin in 1944 , during which she was supposed to persuade Churchill to talk to the Germans about a “separate peace between Germany and Great Britain”. The action failed because Churchill contracted pneumonia. In the disclosure book of the American journalist Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War (dt. Coco Chanel - The black angel: A life as a Nazi agent ), Chanel is referred to various sources as "Agentin F-7124 "in the service of the German occupiers with" the code name Westminster ".

After Pierre Wertheimer (1888–1965), the Jewish business partner of Coco Chanel with German roots from Alsace and since 1924 owner of Parfums Chanel , the perfume division of Chanel, fled with his family in 1940 from the Nazis via Brazil to the USA , Chanel tried in vain in the 1940s as part of the " Aryanization " of Jewish assets to get into possession of Perfumes Chanel . Before leaving, however, Wertheimer had transferred his shares in Parfums Chanel pro forma to his friend aircraft manufacturer Félix Amiot (1894–1974), who returned them to Pierre Wertheimer after the World War without Coco Chanel being able to change anything.

post war period

After the end of the Second World War , Coco Chanel fell out of favor because of her extensive Nazi contacts and her espionage activities in France and was arrested as a collaborator ; Released a short time later because of their good relationships. She was spared from rioting against collaborators as part of purges , which is not unusual in France , since she followed her lover Hans Günther von Dincklage, who had fled to Lausanne in 1944, to Lausanne , where she lived until 1954.

As the former American secret service officer Hal W. Vaughan reports in his biography, she continued to support von Dincklage and also the SS officer Walter Schellenberg, who was convicted at the Nuremberg trials , financially after he was released from prison in 1951, and thus brought about both at the same time Remain silent. Von Dincklage died in 1974 "in his golden retirement on Mallorca in Franco's time". In 1952, Chanel paid for Schellenberg's funeral in Turin .

Returning to Paris, Coco Chanel worked on her comeback . Some sources suggest that the now modern New Look of Christian Dior , whom she is said to have considered a throwback to the time of the stiff corsets, their motivation was. Her return to the fashion world was financed by her business partner Pierre Wertheimer, who feared that Chanel would go it alone, but was quite ready for an amical solution, taking into account some privileges in the division of assets. In return, Wertheimer received, in addition to his ownership of the perfume division of Chanel in 1954, 100% of the shares in the fashion company Chanel. Since then, the perfume and fashion divisions of Chanel have been solely owned by the Wertheimer family in the third generation.

Late years of success

Coco Chanel's private apartment address: 31, rue Cambon

" France will never forget three names from this century: de Gaulle , Picasso , Chanel "

- Quote from André Malraux

On February 5, 1954, Coco Chanel - now 70 years old - opened her fashion store in the Rue Cambon after a nine-year break with a new collection , which the French press initially mockingly called "fiasco" and the models depicted as "phantoms of clothes from the 1930s "was ridiculed. During the fashion shows, Chanel always sat on the spiral staircase of her studio and, out of sight of the audience, watched the mannequins walking under her through specially mounted wall mirrors. However, after the US American Life magazine recognized the elegance of their tweed costumes a year later and called their fashion a “revolution”, and more and more international stars such as Marlene Dietrich , Brigitte Bardot , Grace Kelly , Romy Schneider , Ingrid Bergman and Elizabeth Taylor had media coverage Chanel started the triumphant advance of the Chanel costume.

Until her death, Coco Chanel stayed in her suite at the back of the rue Cambon in the Hotel Ritz, worked in her studio across the street and lived in her private apartment above the studio. It was customary for a doorman at the Hotel Ritz to call the atelier at 31, Rue Cambon every morning as soon as Chanel left the hotel, so that a Chanel employee could talk to the designer about the favorite fragrance, Chanel No. 5, could spray in the stairwell for them.

In her late years in the industry, Chanel was seen as a difficult, bitter person who led a withdrawn, lonely existence in her studio and in her apartment at the end of her life. Karl Lagerfeld, who had never met Chanel personally, described her as "wild, moody and aggressive".

On October 11, 1965 founded Gabrielle Chanel, the Foundation Fondation CoGa ( syllable word from Coco 'and' Gabrielle '), based in Vaduz , Liechtenstein , and appointed them as the sole heir of her considerable fortune. One of the beneficiaries of the foundation is Gabrielle Palasse-Labrunie (* 1926), daughter of the son of one of the sisters of Gabrielle Chanel, whom Coco had once saved from the Nazis, and thus her great niece.

Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971 in her suite at the Ritz Hotel in Paris. Until recently, despite her old age, she had been working on another collection, but allegedly she suffered from circulatory disorders in her head. The last words of the 87-year-old are said to have been: “ So that's how you die .” Two weeks after her death, Chanel showed her last fashion collection in a fashion show.

Coco Chanel's grave, Bois-de-Vaux cemetery, Lausanne

At the memorial service on January 13, 1971 in the Paris Madeleine Church , among others, Salvador Dalí , Serge Lifar , the dancer Jacques Chazot, the widow of Henri Bernstein , the Chanel biographer Claude Delay (daughter of Jean Delay ), Edmonde Charles- Roux , the fashion designers Yves Saint-Laurent , André Courrèges , Marc Bohan and Paco Rabanne , Cocos Mannequins in Chanel costumes and numerous wealthy customers such as Marie-Hélène de Rothschild . After the service, the coffin was transferred to the Swiss city of Lausanne , where Coco Chanel was buried on the Cimetière du Bois-de-Vaux . She designed her gravestone herself during her lifetime: in addition to her name 'Gabrielle Chanel' and the year of birth and death, it is adorned with five carved lion heads as a reference to her zodiac sign .

Friendships

Misia Sert, close friend of Coco Chanel, in a Renoir portrait (1909)

Coco Chanel is said to have had numerous lovers. Their early relationships are featured in the film Coco Chanel - The Beginning of a Passion (2009). After her relationship with Etienne Balsan, who took her from the province of Moulins to his castle near Compiègne from 1906 , introduced her to Paris society and finally made his city apartment in Paris available for her hat studio, she lived with one from 1908/09 Friend of Balsan, the English polo player Arthur 'Boy' Capel, with the help of whose borrowed money Chanel opened a hat atelier in Paris's rue Cambon in 1910. She paid back the money in the late 1910s.

After Capel's accidental death in 1919, Chanel spent a time in Venice with Misia Sert , whom she had met in 1917 through one of her customers, the actress Cécile Sorel, and Sert's later husband Josep Maria Sert . Through Sert's circle of friends, Chanel came into contact with personalities such as Jean Cocteau , Charles Dullin , Sergei Diaghilew , Igor Stravinsky and his family, Pablo Picasso , Pierre Bonnard , Maurice Ravel and Édouard Vuillard . Even Jean Renoir , Georges Auric , Christian Bérard , Boris Kochno , Paul Morand , Joseph Kessel , Irving Penn and Max Jacob were acquainted with Chanel. She created stage costumes for Cocteau, whom Chanel let live in Rue Cambon in 1928 and for whom she paid a rehab cure in 1929, and for Dullin, among others for the play Antigone (1924), the ballet Le Train Bleu (1924) and the film Das Blood of a Poet (1930). In 1921, Chanel was said to have had a brief affair with Igor Stravinsky, whom she let live with his family in their house in Garches. This relationship is the subject of the film Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (2009). In 1920 she had already financed the resumption of his scandalous work Le sacre du printemps .

In 1921/1922 Chanel led a liaison with the eleven years younger Grand Duke Dmitri Pawlowitsch Romanov , the grandson of the Russian Tsar Alexander II and cousin of the last Tsar Nicholas II. Coco Chanel let himself be in her subsequent fashion collections of Russian fur coats and embroidery as well as through the Grand Duke byzantine jewelry. Dmitri's sister, Maria Pavlovna Romanowa , founded the Kitmir Atelier in 1921, in which embroidered fabrics were made for the house of Chanel. Through Dmitri Pawlowitsch Romanov, she also met the French perfumer at the court of the Tsars, Ernest Beaux , with whom she created her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, created.

Chanel and Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster (photographed between 1925 and 1930)

From 1922 to 1924 the poet Pierre Reverdy was Chanel's companion, and from 1924 to 1930 she was in a relationship with Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster (1879-1953), whom she met in Monte Carlo in 1923 . Chanel's ideas for tweed jackets, short sweaters and trousers for women can be traced back to the environment of the Duke of Westminster, then the richest man in England. Winston Churchill was one of Westminster's friends. With Westminster and Churchill as guests, Chanel spent a vacation in 1928 in the Duke's country house in Sutherland , which she had furnished in her special style in 1926. Chanel also spent vacations with Westminster in his French country house Château Woolsack in Mimizan on the Bay of Biscay , where Chanel occasionally invited some of their seamstresses to paid vacations.

In 1929 Chanel organized the funeral of Diaghilev in Venice, who had died impoverished there in exile. In 1932, Coco Chanel began a relationship with illustrator Paul Iribe , who died of heart failure in 1935. After the end of her liaison with Hans Günther von Dincklage in 1950, who had followed her to Lausanne after the war, no further relationships were known from Chanel.

Many well-known photographers such as Man Ray , Cecil Beaton , Horst P. Horst , Henri Cartier-Bresson , George Hoyningen-Huene , Roger Scholl or Douglas Kirkland have photographed Coco Chanel and contributed to its myth.

For Romy Schneider , as a style advisor and friend, Coco Chanel was one of those people in the 1960s who “changed their lives from the ground up”. A loyal friend in her last years was the Brazilian Aimée de Heeren , who lived four months a year in Paris near the Ritz in the Hôtel Meurice . Chanel and Aimée de Heeren used to take night walks through Paris.

Works

“ I don't do fashion. I am the fashion. "

- Quote attributed to Coco Chanel
Chanel 2.55 women's handbag
Chanel Nº 5 women's fragrance bottle

Like no other fashion designer, Coco Chanel shaped the fashion of the 20th century and played a significant role in the development of Paris into a fashion center. By the mid-1910s she was already a wealthy business woman with her flourishing fashion company.

Coco Chanel liked to say: “ I released women from the corset . “The first fashion without a corset was created by Madeleine Vionnet and Paul Poiret in the early 1900s. Poiret colorful fashion velvet harem pants in Harem style called Chanel later as "barbaric". Her preferred colors were black, white and beige. In the 1920s she invented the cocktail dress known as the " little black dress ". She shortened the skirts to what was then a scandalous length just below the knee and designed novel knitted swimsuits with freedom of movement that ended at the thigh and under which shorts peeked out.

For the first time, she used body- hugging jersey fabrics for a sportier line . The famous Chanel costume from Tweed became the businesswoman world standard. The costume was often decorated with black trimmings and gold buttons and was often worn with long pearl necklaces as costume jewelry .

Further contributions to women's fashion were trousers for women, knitted ensembles ( twinset ), shoes with heel straps (sling pumps or slingbacks ) and quilted handbags with shoulder chains ( Chanel 2.55 ). There was also the establishment of eye-catching fashion jewelry instead of real jewelry.

Together with the perfumer Ernest Beaux , she created Chanel Nº 5 in 1921 . It was the first popular perfume that did not smell of flowers, but was dominated by a note of aldehyde.

In the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York , which houses the most extensive fashion collection in the world, you can find Coco Chanel's Evening Ensemble from 1936. In 2014, an exhibition called "The Chanel Myth" took place at the Museum of Art and Commerce in Hamburg . This exhibition showed over 150 original pieces from important collections.

The fashion house after Chanel's death

The years after the death of the style icon Coco Chanel continued with rapid success for the fashion label. In 1974 the Eau de Toilette Cristalle came out and in the following year 1975 the fashion company launched a care and cosmetic line called Beauté . In 1981 the second men's fragrance, called Antaeus, went on sale. But in general, the fashion house Chanel could not build on the successes under Coco Chanel after her death. It has gained a reputation for creating fashions for rich elderly women.

That only changed in 1983 when Karl Lagerfeld began designing fashion for Chanel and bringing the house back to its former glory. Alain and Gérard Wertheimer , the grandchildren of Pierre Wertheimer, have been the sole owners of Chanel since 1974 . In 1984 the perfume Coco was launched, which celebrated worldwide success. The fashion creations by Karl Lagerfeld, which were awarded the Paris Haute Couture Prize Dé d'or (German: Golden Thimble ) in 1986, were just as successful . The US fashion association CFDA recognized Lagerfeld as a Chanel designer in 1991 with the International Award .

Movies

literature

  • Lisa Chaney: Chanel. An intimate life. Fig Tree, London 2011, ISBN 978-1-905490-36-3 .
  • Edmonde Charles-Roux : Coco Chanel - One Life. Her life, her world and the truth behind the legend. Translation by Erika Tophoven . Zsolnay, Vienna / Darmstadt 1988, ISBN 3-552-04026-9 .
  • Edmonde Charles-Roux: Coco Chanel - Your Life in Pictures. Knesebeck, Munich 2009, ISBN 978-3-89660-261-9 .
  • Detlef Lehmann: The divine scents: Salvador Dalí and his perfumes. The divine Fragrances in collaboration with Coco Chanel, Ed. John G. Bodenstein, EKS-Verlag European Culture Foundation / Marco-VG Bonn, Berlin / Paris / New York 2004, ISBN 3-921754-39-9 .
  • Manfred Flügge : Rescue without a rescuer or: A train from Theresienstadt . dtv, 2004, ISBN 3-423-24416-X (Chanel's Nazi collaboration is covered in detail in this novel)
  • Chris Greenhalgh: Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky. Edition Elke Heidenreich at C. Bertelsmann, Munich 2010, ISBN 978-3-570-58019-6 .
  • Catherine de Montalembert: Forever Coco . Facets of an icon (original title: Coco Chanel, une icone ). Knesebeck, Munich 2012, ISBN 978-3-86873-433-1 .
  • Paul Morand: Coco Chanel - L'allure de Chanel. Hermann, Paris 1976, ISBN 2-7056-5838-6 .
  • Florence Müller: Christian Dior - Designer of Dreams. Exhibition catalog. Thames & Hudson , London 2017, ISBN 978-0-500-02154-5 .
  • Justine Picardie: Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life. HarperCollins, New York 2010, ISBN 978-0-06-196385-8 .
    • German: Chanel. Your life . Translated by Gertraude Krueger and Dorthe Kaiser, with drawings by Karl Lagerfeld, Steidl, Göttingen 2011, ISBN 978-3-86930-179-2 .
  • Maria Spitz (Ed.): The Myth of Chanel. Exhibition catalog. Draiflessen Collection, Mettingen 2013, ISBN 978-3-942359-10-8 .
  • Hal Vaughan: Sleeping With the Enemy - Coco Chanel Nazi Agent. (In bed with the enemy - Coco Chanel as a Nazi agent). Chatto & Windus, London 2011, ISBN 978-0-7011-8500-8 .
    • German: Coco Chanel - The black angel . A life as a Nazi agent (from the English by Bernhard Jendricke and others). Hoffmann and Campe, Hamburg 2011, ISBN 978-3-455-50226-8 .
  • Janet Wallach: Coco Chanel - Elegance and Success in a Lifetime. Kabel, Munich 1998, ISBN 3-8225-0513-7 .

Web links

Commons : Coco Chanel  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b The birth certificate ( Memento from December 8, 2014 in the Internet Archive ). In the actual form (right) the registrar has entered Henri Chasnel as the father's name (end of the 7th line), Eugénie Jeanne Devolles as the mother's name (9th line), and Gabrielle (11th line) as the first name of the child . For the mother it says: domiciliée avec son mari , ie “living with her husband” (end of the 10th line); but the couple was not married at the time. At the top left, another person (with a different handwriting) gave the child's surname and first name: Chasnel Gabrielle . The dates of death were later noted below.
  2. ↑ Industrie du luxe: l'exceptionnelle rentabilité de Chanel enfin dévoilée ( Memento of the original of October 22, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , challenges.fr, January 9, 2014. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.challenges.fr
  3. ↑ The secret life of Coco Chanel ( Memento of the original from January 19, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , telegraph.co.uk, September 5, 2010.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / fashion.telegraph.co.uk
  4. ^ Coco Chanel , Isabella Alston via Google Books, 2014, p. 12.
  5. ↑ Family tree of the Balsan
  6. ↑ Inventor of the “Little Black One ” in “Radiofeuilleton” on Deutschlandradio Kultur from August 19, 2008.
  7. ↑ Chanel buys back Cocos Riviera residence. On: welt.de , September 30, 2015.
  8. ↑ Hans-Günther's grandfather was raised to the untitled nobility in 1871: Gothaisches Adeliges Taschenbuch, Briedadelige Häuser, 1931, p. 139.
  9. ↑ On naturalization: The National Archives; Kew, Surrey, England; Duplicate Certificates of Naturalization, Declarations of British Nationality, and Declarations of Alienage; Class: HO 334; Part number: 70; The Entire Family at the 1871 Census: The National Archives; Kew, London, England; 1871 England Census; Class: RG10; Part number: 4300; Page: 28; Page: 49; HSE role: 846975. Both documents can be researched online via ancestry.
  10. ↑ Maximilian Scheer quoted from him in So was es in Paris , Berlin 1972, p. 101, the following letter of September 17, 1934 to his office: “... I brought the chief of the Secret State Police, Mr. Diehls, a list of exact address details about emigrants who participated in the boycott movement. I informed Herr Diehls that it might also be possible for me to give him more precise information about the propaganda work of the KPD members abroad, especially in France. Mr. Diehls said ... (that the) determination of the network ... would be extremely valuable. "
  11. ↑ Coco Chanel at was. ( Memento of the original from January 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. telegraph.co.uk, September 13, 2010.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / fashion.telegraph.co.uk
  12. ↑ Coco Chanel - The agent with the pearl necklace. , faz.net, August 22, 2011.
  13. ↑ Chanel scandal biography: The Sparrow of Nazi Paris. In: Spiegel online. August 21, 2011.
  14. ↑ Fashion legend Chanel - How Coco almost ended the war , spiegel.de, August 26, 2008.
  15. ↑ Biography depicts Coco Chanel as a Nazi spy , handelsblatt.com, August 16, 2011.
  16. ↑ Coco Chanel - The Agent with the Pearl Necklace , faz.net, August 22, 2011.
  17. ↑ Hal Vaughan, Coco Chanel - The Black Angel: A Life as a Nazi Agent, Hamburg, Hoffmann and Campe 2011, ISBN 9783455502268
  18. ^ Sascha Lehnartz: John Galliano and the weird worldview of designers. March 6, 2011, accessed October 8, 2018 .
  19. ↑ Anke Schipp: The agent with the pearl necklace. August 22, 2011, p. 2 , accessed October 8, 2018 .
  20. ↑ Chanel: una sola gota (de sangre judía) basta para matarte. March 8, 2016, Retrieved October 8, 2018 (Spanish).
  21. ↑ Der Spiegel , November 2, 1992, Mode, Frau ohne Grace PDF
  22. ↑ Hans Michael Kloth, Corina Kolbe: How Coco almost ended the war. Her lovers were grand dukes, artistic geniuses - and a Nazi spy: Coco Chanel was born in August 1883. The fashion icon not only invented the little black dress, she was also the focus of one of the most absurd secret affairs of World War II. August 26, 2008. Retrieved July 21, 2010 .
  23. ↑ Chanel No. 1 , vogue.com, February 2009.
  24. ↑ More Chanel than Coco , tagesanzeiger.ch, April 15, 2014.
  25. ↑ # 93; = 389253 Coco Chanel - A portrait of the fashion designer ( memento of the original from November 26, 2013 in the web archive archive.today ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, July 6, 1995.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  26. ↑ Coco Chanel, possédée par sa légende , lemonde.fr, 23 August 2012.
  27. ↑ Chanel intime , parismatch.com, September 22, 2011.
  28. ^ Famous farewell words: Coco Chanel (1883–1971) Spiegel Online , April 5, 2007.
  29. ↑ DIED: GABRIELLE BONHEUR ("COCO") CHANEL - DER SPIEGEL 4/1971. Retrieved November 16, 2020 .
  30. ↑ The grave of Coco Chanel on knerger.de
  31. ↑ Woman without mercy , spiegel.de, November 2, 1992.
  32. ↑ Buck, Susanne: murderer, fashion, dowry hunter . Jonas Verlag, Weimar 2019, p. 64-73 .
  33. ↑ - Close-up of Coco Chanel. Retrieved November 16, 2020 (German).
  34. ^ Douglas Kirkland, "An Evening with Marilyn" & "Coco Chanel - Three Weeks" | Town house Ulm. Retrieved November 16, 2020 .
  35. ↑ Servus Sissi, hello sex & sweet life , mopo.de, 23 September 2008.
  36. ↑ Coco Chanel & Cremerie de Paris .
  37. ^ Coco , welt.de, January 2, 2014.
  38. ↑ Smoking, sports and monocles ( memento of the original from January 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , stern.de, February 14, 2008. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.stern.de
  39. ↑ Coco Chanel, the inventor of the cocktail dress ( Memento of the original from March 1, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved February 25, 2012.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.vipdress.de
  40. ^ Exhibition The Myth of Chanel
  41. ^ François Baudot: Chanel. (= Magician of fashion ). Translated from the French by Anja Lazarowicz. Schirmer / Mosel, Munich / Paris / London 1996, ISBN 3-88814-815-4 , p. 75.
  42. ^ Filmfest Hamburg: Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky. Film review by Dagmar Seifert on kultur-port.de from September 28, 2009.
  43. ^ Film page: Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky.
  44. ↑ Review by Johannes Willms in the Süddeutsche Zeitung from 11. – 13. June 2011, p. 17.
  45. ↑ Oliver Meiler: A bad scent from Coco Chanel. ( Memento of the original from January 26, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. A new biography shows France's fashion icon as an ardent anti-Semite. In: Tages-Anzeiger . August 17, 2011, accessed August 17, 2011. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.tagesanzeiger.ch
personal data
SURNAME Chanel, Coco
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Chasnel, Gabrielle Bonheur
SHORT DESCRIPTION Fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH August 19, 1883
PLACE OF BIRTH Saumur
DATE OF DEATH January 10, 1971
Place of death Paris