Chanel

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Chanel SAS

logo
legal form Société par actions simplifiée
founding 1913
Seat Neuilly-sur-Seine , France
management Alain Wertheimer ( CEO )
Virginie Viard (Chief Designer)
sales 9.62 billion US $ (2017)
Branch Luxury items
Website www.chanel.com

Chanel boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris with the Ritz Hotel reflected in the shop window

Chanel SAS (French [ ʃanɛl ]) is the name of Gabrielle Coco Chanel (1883-1971) with the opening of a Chanel boutique in 1913 in Deauville , founded fashion company with today's headquarters in Neuilly-sur-Seine in Paris . Chanel is now one of the largest and most important companies in the fashion and cosmetics industry worldwide. In addition to haute couture and prêt-à-porter for women, Chanel also produces high-priced watches, jewelry, glasses, accessories , perfumes and cosmetics in the luxury goods segment for women and in some cases also for men .

From the 1910s onwards, Chanel was a pioneer of what was then unusually functional, casual and yet feminine, elegant women's fashion in the upper price segment. Chanel made light blouses, airy tops , wide-cut ladies' trousers or calf-length skirts from comfortable fabrics in mostly simple designs , often borrowed from men's fashion , which freed women of this time from tight corsets , bodice dresses and stiff skirts with often opulent decorations. Coco Chanel's influence on the world of women's fashion was both style-forming and emancipatory . Icons of the Chanel brand include the “ little black dress ”, padded leather handbags with quilted seams and metal link chains as well as the Chanel suit with a bordered , collarless tweed jacket and flared skirt. The Chanel Nº 5 perfume, launched in 1922, is considered the best-selling in the world.

By the 1970s at the latest, the Chanel brand was associated with wealthy, older women. This did not change until the mid-1980s under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld (1933-2019), who designed the house's fashion collections from 1982 to 2019 as modern interpretations of Coco Chanel's legacy. He is largely credited with the fact that the then dusty Parisian fashion house was transformed into an international billion-dollar company by the end of the 1990s at the latest . Long-time employee Virginie Viard followed on Lagerfeld .

Chanel is a privately held company that is wholly owned by the French Alain (* 1949) and Gérard Wertheimer (* 1950), the grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer (1888–1965), a former business partner of Coco Chanel. In fiscal 2017, Chanel's total sales were $ 9.62 billion.

history

Coco Chanel

Silhouette of Gabrielle Chanel

In 1909, Coco Chanel, a trained seamstress, opened a hat atelier with elegant, simple hats for wealthy women in the 17th arrondissement at 160, Boulevard Malesherbes in Paris in the city apartment of her then lover, Étienne Balsan . In the times of the Belle Époque , ladies of better society were used to opulently decorated hats. Because Chanel's modern, minimalist hat creations in her extended circle of Parisian high society enjoyed quickly great popularity it acquired in 1910 with the financial support of her next lover, Arthur "Boy" Capel, an estate in the Paris Rue Cambon 21 in the 1st arrondissement and opened there under the name “Chanel Modes” a hat studio , opposite the back of the Ritz Hotel , where she was to move into a suite from 1937 onwards . This was followed in 1913 by a fashion boutique with casual sportswear in fashionable Deauville and in 1915 by a couture shop in the chic seaside resort of Biarritz , where Coco Chanel offered casual yet elegant women's fashion, which was unusual for the time. In 1916 she presented a complete couture collection for the first time, and Chanel fashion was a theme in American Vogue . In 1918, Coco Chanel opened a haute couture salon at 31 rue Cambon. The main atelier of Chanel and a flagship store are still located in No. 31 . Gabrielle Chanel later set up an apartment here (albeit without a bedroom, as she always stayed in her two-room suite in the Ritz across the street), which has been preserved to this day. In 1919 Chanel joined the Parisian Haute Couture Association, Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne . In the following years Mademoiselle , as the unmarried Chanel was called, successively acquired the properties with the house numbers 29, 25, 23 and finally 27 in Paris Rue Cambon, so that she ultimately owned a whole row of houses there. The company has also owned house number 19 since 2013. The Chanel company itself specifies the founding date of the company when it opened its boutique in Deauville in 1913 and accordingly celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2013.

Chanel jersey dresses from 1917

Similar to fellow fashion designer Jean Patou , the typical look at Chanel - in contrast to the conservative, opulent, stiff women's fashion of the time - consisted of simple, androgynous cuts with flowing, soft fabrics and low waists , as was the case in the 1920s for young, emancipated women was all the rage. Inspired by sportswear for women and the maritime style of the seaside resorts, Chanel quickly made a name for itself in the Parisian fashion world with youthful blouses, elegant blazers , three-piece costumes , wide trousers and sequin tops in subtle monochrome tones. Her use of soft cotton jersey in women's wardrobe, previously only known for underwear - originally a necessity for cost reasons and because of the scarcity of resources around the First World War - soon helped her to gain international recognition. In 1925, she first created a costume with a cardigan without lapels made of piped tweed , which was an icon of Chanel fashion and later varied as a bouclé costume with borders, for example . Special features of the tweed jacket are patch pockets, decorative buttons with the Chanel logo and a metal chain sewn inside the hem for an optimal fit. From 1926 onwards, Coco Chanel again attracted a lot of attention in the fashion industry with her classic, the “ little black dress ” (French: petite robe noire ), a knee-length black evening dress - at a time when short skirt lengths were still unfamiliar one of the most important pieces of clothing of the 20th century. Soon the Chanel style was copied from all sides, which only added to the prestige of the house. Coco Chanel also designed jewelery collections, from 1924 in its own studio - it is regarded as the inventor of costume jewelery - which very often long pearl - chains were used. From 1926 Mademoiselle designed stage costumes for directors Jean Cocteau and Charles Dullin, among others .

The perfume division of Chanel was established in 1924 as Societé des Parfums Chanel in Neuilly-sur-Seine - where the headquarters of the Chanel company is to this day - after Coco Chanel and the chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux (1881–1961) from Grasse the famous perfume Chanel Nº 5 as well as a number of other, later discontinued perfumes (Nº 11, Nº 14, Nº 20, Nº 21, Nº 27, Nº 55) had been launched. Choco Chanel himself contributed to the composition of the fragrance, finally selected the fifth copy of the fragrance samples presented to her (hence the name of the perfume) and also designed the minimalist bottle himself. The French businessman Pierre Wertheimer (* January 8, 1888 - April 24, 1965) and his brother Paul (* June 22, 1883), owner of the international cosmetics group Bourjois from Pantin , brought the financial means to the production facilities for perfume , the commercial expertise and the necessary business connections in the company and thus held 70% of the company, which operates separately from the Chanel fashion division. Coco Chanel himself only owned 10% of the shares, and the founder of Galeries Lafayette Théophile Bader - a friend of the Wertheimer's father, who initiated the encounter with Coco Chanel in Deauville in 1923 - held 20%. Chanel had already been on business and friends with Bader through her fashion salon and Perfume Nº 5. Chanel make-up was first launched in 1924. In 1926 the first Chanel boutique opened in Mayfair , London. In 1928 tweed costumes made of fabrics made in Scotland by Chanel appeared for the first time. In the 1930s, Coco Chanel tried in vain to take legal action to increase her stake in Parfums Chanel .

No. 31, rue Cambon in Paris (2014)

From 1930, at the invitation of Samuel Goldwyn , Chanel furnished the screen stars of United Artists in Hollywood for a few weeks . In November 1932, Coco Chanel presented a jewelery collection with diamonds under the name “Bijoux de Diamants” in her private apartment, which had been rented since 1923 at 29, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. 1935 Chanel counted 4,000 employees and sold 28,000 garments, although the company the Great Depression had been particularly felt in 1929 on the American market. At that time there were five Chanel boutiques on Rue Cambon for the company's various product categories.

In September 1939, after the Second World War had begun, Coco Chanel stopped haute couture fashion and temporarily only sold perfume and accessories at number 31. 1940, the Jewish Wertheimer family , who came from Alsace , emigrated to the United States via Brazil States; The shares in Parfums Chanel were taken over pro forma by the aircraft manufacturer Félix Amiot, who was friends with them, until they returned after the World War, and then returned to Pierre Wertheimer without Coco Chanel being able to influence ownership.

Chanel moved to Switzerland until 1954 after allegations that she had collaborated with the National Socialists . After financial disputes and personal disputes with Pierre Wertheimer, he and Coco Chanel agreed on a further business cooperation in 1947, whereby Wertheimer secured the rights to all products of the Chanel brand and Coco Chanel a one-off payment of the equivalent of 350,000 dollars as well as an ongoing share in sales of 2%. (equivalent to up to a million dollars a year) in order to avoid a lawsuit or going it alone by Coco Chanel. In 1954 the Wertheimers also took over the 20% share from Théophil Bader and the company's fashion division. Since then, the entire Chanel company has been in the hands of the Wertheimer family. Haute couture - at that time dominated by competitors like Dior , Fath or Balenciaga - was revived under the direction of the now 70-year-old Coco Chanel at Chanel. On February 5, 1954, Coco Chanel presented her first fashion show after the war on Rue Cambon. After initial difficulties - the French press initially scoffed at the advanced age of the fashion designer and criticized the first models she presented - the collections were also extremely successful thanks to the America business and, as a side effect, boosted sales in the perfume business.

View of a Chanel boutique in Toronto (2014)

The company's first fragrance for men, Chanel pour Monsieur , was launched in 1955 and is still available today. In the same year, a quilted Chanel handbag with a gold chain, the Chanel 2.55 (for “February 1955”) was presented, which is still one of the company's classics today. In 1956 the American subsidiary Chanel, Inc. was founded in New York. In 1957, the two-tone slingback pumps in beige with a black shoe cap appeared, and Coco Chanel was honored with the Neiman Marcus Award in Dallas . In 1959, the Chanel N ° 5 bottle was first presented as an object of art in the New York Museum of Modern Art and later added to the museum's permanent collection. It is said of Marilyn Monroe that she “only needs a few drops of Chanel No. to sleep. 5 ”, and the photos of Jacqueline Kennedy in a pink Chanel suit, bowing over her shot husband , went around the world in 1963. Other famous customers of the time were Romy Schneider , Ingrid Bergman , Brigitte Bardot , Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor . In 1965, after Pierre's death, his son Jacques (* August 18, 1911 - February 6, 1996), an enthusiastic horse breeder, took over the management of the House of Chanel. Under his leadership, sales in the perfume business fell; In the United States, Chanel perfume could even be bought in drugstore chains at ever-falling prices . Coco Chanel was solely responsible for the house's creations until her death at the age of 87.

Transition period

After Chanel's death in 1971, Gaston Berthelot, previously a clothing designer at Dior, took her place with little success. He was replaced in 1973 by long-time Chanel employees Yvonne Dudel and Jean Cazaubon. In 1974 Jacques' son Alain, who with his brother Gerard is the sole owner of Chanel to this day, took over the management of the group, while his father was a member of the board of directors until 1978. Chanel's first ready-to-wear fashion collection, Chanel Boutique , was launched in 1978 under the direction of Philippe Guibourgé with moderate success. In 1980 the Balenciaga student Ramon Esparza was entrusted with the design of the Chanel collections. All of these designers had the task of preserving the legacy of Coco Chanel, worked accordingly little innovatively and ultimately contributed to the fact that Chanel increasingly suffered from the image of being a high-priced brand for wealthy women of advanced age. The main sales of Chanel during this time were generated by perfume, makeup and accessories.

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld with Sebastien Jondeau in the background (2008)
Claudia Schiffer in Chanel outfit as a guest at the Chanel prêt-à-porter show S / S 2010 (2009)

In 1980 Alain Wertheimer hired the advertising specialist and later Chanel North America boss Kitty D'Alessio, who in turn introduced the then Chloé designer Karl Lagerfeld to Wertheimer. According to Lagerfeld, who had never met Coco Chanel, Wertheimer offered him the creative management of the house in the autumn of 1982 with the words "Make something out of it. If it works, wonderful. Otherwise I'll just sell the company." At the end of 1982, Lagerfeld, who had been advised against by his environment, was initially hired as a consultant for haute couture, while Hervé Léger (Hervé L. Leroux), who had been Lagerfeld's assistant at Fendi in Rome since 1981, started the prêt-à- porter division. The following year, the Wertheimers made Lagerfeld chief designer for the company's entire fashion division. His annual salary was then put at a million dollars.

The first Chanel fashion show directed by Lagerfeld took place on February 5, 1983 in Paris. His first designs - a homage to Coco Chanel's fashion from the 1920s and 30s - met with mixed feedback, but with the second collection at the end of 1983, Lagerfeld was celebrated as the savior of the Chanel house. With modern, sometimes unconventional interpretations of the legacy of Coco Chanel, Lagerfeld helped the fashion brand regain its old glory and, by expanding the collections, made a significant contribution to the fact that Chanel is now one of the leading brands in women's fashion, even among young women. Critics complain that Lagerfeld - albeit with immense financial success for the house of Chanel - only implemented Coco Chanel's ideas in a contemporary way, instead of enriching the brand with something of his own. Chanel's studio, and thus Karl Lagerfeld's workplace during his lifetime, is still located on Rue Cambon in Paris. The Chanel management gave Lagerfeld a free hand with his designs - also with regard to the budget - and saw the designer's various obligations with other fashion companies as a creative enrichment for Chanel. In 1988 Lagerfeld received the International Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his Chanel collections.

Under Lagerfeld, Inès de la Fressange became a model for Chanel from 1983 until Lagerfeld replaced her with Claudia Schiffer in 1990 . Schiffer and Lagerfeld went their separate ways in 1996, but have been working together again for the Chanel brand since the early 2000s. Inès de la Fressange led the Chanel fashion show as a model at the end of 2010. From 1997, Lagerfeld's personal collaborators at Chanel included the British fashion consultant Amanda, Lady Harlech, who had previously worked for John Galliano for 12 years before he moved to Dior. From the 2000s, international stars such as Vanessa Paradis , Nicole Kidman , Audrey Tautou , Keira Knightley and Blake Lively were increasingly used as testimonials for Chanel.

Lagerfeld died on February 19, 2019 in Paris. His successor at Chanel was Virginie Viard , who had previously worked closely with Lagerfeld for 30 years.

Virginie Viard

Viard was hired by Chanel in 1987 as an intern in haute couture embroidery. When Karl Lagerfeld resumed his work at Chloé from 1992 to 1997, Viard accompanied him as his right-hand man. She then became Haute Couture coordinator at Chanel, took over the management of the clothing department in 2000 and was finally appointed head of the Chanel creative studio.

In May 2018, Viard appeared for the first time at Lagerfeld's side for the final applause of the Chanel Cruise 2019 collection. She also appeared with Lagerfeld at the subsequent Chanel fashion shows. In January 2019, when Chanel announced that Lagerfeld was "tired", Viard accepted the final applause alone at the Chanel Haute Couture fashion show, which sparked speculation about Lagerfeld's health. The last Chanel collection drawn by Lagerfeld was presented on March 5, 2019 in the Grand Palais with a minute's silence for the deceased.

In February 2019, Chanel appointed Viard as artistic director of the Chanel fashion collections and Eric Pfrunder, with the company since 1983, as artistic director of the Chanel image department (advertising, marketing, events, etc.). Viard presented their first own Chanel collection with the Resort 2020 collection on May 3, 2019 at the Grand Palais .

Trademark

The Chanel logo on the Hong Kong boutique (2007)

In addition to the distinctive logo in capital letters with a C placed on top of each other as a company logo in black on a white background or white on a black background, the design of the global boutiques and the sales areas for perfume and cosmetics in black and white are part of the brand identity of Chanel . The characteristic features and recurring style elements of Chanel include the "little black dress", collarless tweed jackets and costumes in bouclé processing and with border hems, gold buttons, handbags with quilted decorations and straps made of metallic chain links, beige sling pumps with black cap, camellia or other flowers and their stylized forms, long pearl necklaces and gold jewelry as well as the simple, elegant packaging and containers for perfume and cosmetic products in simple, rectangular shapes.

The advertising materials - such as catalogs, flyers and invitations to haute couture shows - as well as CHANEL's own publications such as “The Little Black Jacket” (2012) are printed by the Göttingen publisher Gerhard Steidl at Steidl Verlag . The collaboration between Steidl and Lagerfeld began in the early 1990s.

Chanel group

The Chanel boutique on Rodeo Drive (2008)

The Chanel Group ( Holdings : Chanel International BV , Amsterdam , Chanel Limited , London, Pamerco AG , Glarus and New Litor Limited , George Town ) included a stake in the loss-making American fashion label Isaac Mizrahi from 1993 to 1998 , the Swiss one since 1993 Watch manufacturer G&F Chatelain , since 1996 the British arms manufacturer Holland & Holland with its own hunting fashion collection, from 1996 to 2005 the hair salon chain Frédéric Fekkai as a joint venture , since 1997 the swimwear manufacturer Eres , since 1998 a stake in the watch manufacturer Bell & Ross .

In 1997, Chanel founded Paraffection SA, in which since then the Chanel suppliers that were previously or in the course of the following years have been bundled and have since then been operating as subsidiaries of Chanel. Since the launch of separate annual collections and fashion shows with winter fashion in summer under the name Métiers d'art (French: metier d'art , "handicrafts") in 2002 by Karl Lagerfeld, special attention has been paid to these suppliers. The handicraft businesses are in detail:

  • Desrues  / jewelry accessories and buttons (founded in 1897 / acquired by Chanel in 1984)
  • Lemarié  / feathers and flowers (1880/1996)
  • Maison Michel  / Hats (1936/1996)
  • Massaro  / shoes (1947/2002)
  • Lesage  / embroidery (1868/2002)
  • Goosens  / goldsmiths (1950/2005)
  • Guillet  / Blossoms (1869/2006)
  • Montex  / embroidery (1939/2011)
  • Causse  / Gloves (1892/2012)
  • Barrie Knitwear from Hawick (Scotland)  / Knitwear (1903/2012)
  • Lognon  /  pleating (1945/2013)
  • Bodin-Joyeux  / tannery (1860/2013)

The embroidery specialist Lesage SAS in turn bought the French embroidery company Lanel in 2013 and the Indian embroidery company Vastrakala in 2014 .

Group figures were not published by Chanel in the past. In the early 2000s, annual sales were estimated at over $ 2 billion; In the early 2010s, over $ 6 billion was raised. In 2018, Chanel announced that annual sales in 2017 were approximately $ 9.62 billion (11% more than 2016) and net income of $ 1.79 billion (18.5% more than 2016). The family fortunes of Alain (group boss, New York) and Gérard (European boss, Geneva) Wertheimer were estimated at 5 billion euros each in the mid-2000s; In 2018 the press named $ 23 billion each. The family lives in seclusion and does not appear in public. From 2007 to early 2016, Chanel's former North American boss Maureen Chiquet was the company's Global CEO. As a result of "internal differences", as the media put it, she had to give up her post at the end of January 2016. Until a suitable successor has been found for her, Alain Wertheimer (co-owner and Chairman of the Board of Directors of Chanel) will take over the management.

Boutiques

Chanel fashion is only sold through its own boutiques and a few selected department stores, which usually have a Chanel shop-in-shop. The first Chanel boutique, apart from the headquarters in Paris, opened in Deauville in 1913. There were around 300 Chanel boutiques worldwide in 2013, not all of which stock the full range. The Chanel boutique, which opened in Honolulu in 1984, was the most profitable Chanel store worldwide in the 1990s due to the large number of Japanese tourists in Hawaii . The first Chanel boutique on the US mainland opened its doors in 1985 on Rodeo Drive , the first Chanel boutique in New York City followed in 1986. In Germany, Chanel has six stores in Berlin (twice), Düsseldorf , Hamburg and Frankfurt am Main and Munich . In Switzerland there are Geneva (twice), St. Moritz and Zurich , and in Austria Chanel is located on Kohlmarkt in Vienna .

Products

Fashion and accessories

Haute Couture Collection A / W 2011; presented in July 2011 at the Grand Palais

Karl Lagerfeld designed eight women's collections per year for Chanel: four prêt-à-porter collections, two preliminary collections (also prêt-à-porter fashion) and two haute couture collections. With the regular ready-to-wear collections, there is one collection for the catwalk each season , which is presented six months before the sale at Paris Fashion Week, as well as a more classic collection that goes on sale directly and does not open up beforehand is presented on the catwalk. The Croisière pre-collection (English cruise / resort collection ) will be presented in late spring and will go on sale in late autumn. Coco Chanel had already presented a croisière collection (French for "cruise") for the first time in 1924. The Métiers d'art pre-collection (French: métier d'art , “handicrafts”) will be presented in late autumn and will go on sale in the following early summer. The worldwide Chanel boutiques are accordingly supplied with new goods from the prêt-à-porter and pre-collections every two months. Chanel's haute couture fashion is presented during the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Weeks and, with the exception of sample models offered in larger boutiques such as New York, is mainly adapted and sold in the atelier on Rue Cambon in Paris.

Since the early 2000s, male models - such as Brad Kroenig , Sebastien Jondeau or Baptiste Giabiconi - have appeared in Chanel fashion shows , although Chanel does not make any clothing for men. Lagerfeld explained this with the fact that Coco Chanel once got the inspiration for her women's collections from men's fashion. With his Chanel articles modified for men, Lagerfeld wanted to reverse this fact - at least during the fashion shows - as a homage to Coco.

Since 2006 the regular prêt-à-porter shows, and in the years since then also the haute couture presentations, have been presented by Chanel in the Paris Grand Palais , each of which is given a special decoration for this purpose. Like the prêt-à-porter shows in previous years, the haute couture shows took place mostly in the main building on Paris' Rue Cambon. From 1991 the background music for the Chanel shows was arranged by the Parisian DJ Michel Gaubert on behalf of Karl Lagerfeld. All Chanel shows are elaborately staged events for invited guests and each time they attract a lot of media coverage.

Chanel collections
Main collections Pre-collections
  • Haute couture - spring / summer and autumn / winter
  • Prêt-à-porter - spring / summer and autumn / winter (both catwalk and classic collections)
  • Croisière / Resort - "Pre-Spring" ( cruise collection ; spring / summer fashion in winter)
  • Métiers d'art - "Pre-Fall" (autumn / winter fashion in summer)
New edition of the Chanel 2.55 handbag launched in 1955 (2009)

The first Métiers d'art collection was shown in 2002 as a counterpart to the Croisière / Resort preliminary collections and is intended to highlight their craftsmanship skills as part of the acquisition of a dozen formerly independent supplier workshops - see Paraffection SA in the Chanel Group section . The Métiers d'art -Check were named after cities since 2004 (and usually presented there as well), which are in some way with Coco Chanel in combination: Paris- Tokyo (Pre-Fall 2005), Paris-New York (Pre-Fall 2006), Paris- Monte Carlo (Pre-Fall 2007), Paris- London (Pre-Fall 2008), Paris- Moscow (Pre-Fall 2009), Paris- Shanghai (Pre-Fall 2010), Paris- Byzantium (Pre- Fall 2011, shown in Paris), Paris- Bombay (Pre-Fall 2012, shown in Paris), Paris- Edinburgh (Pre-Fall 2013, Linlithgow Palace ), Paris- Dallas (Pre-Fall 2014), Paris- Salzburg (Pre -Fall 2015, Schloss Leopoldskron ), Paris- Rome (Pre-Fall 2016), Hôtel Ritz (Paris) (Pre-Fall 2017), Paris- Hamburg (Pre-Fall 2018, Elbphilharmonie ), Paris-New York (Pre-Fall 2019, Metropolitan Museum of Art ).

Similarly, the Croisière / Resort preliminary collections were mostly presented at special locations: a boat trip on the Seine (pre-spring 2005), a bus tour through Paris (pre-spring 2006), New York Grand Central Station (pre-spring 2007), Santa Monica Airport (Pre-Spring 2008), Miami (Pre-Spring 2009), Lido di Venezia (Pre-Spring 2010), Saint Tropez (Pre-Spring 2011), Antibes (Pre-Spring 2012), Garden of Versailles Palace (Pre-Spring 2013), Singapore (Pre-Spring 2014), Dubai (Pre-Spring 2015), Seoul (Pre-Spring 2016, Dongdaemun Design Plaza), La Habana Vieja (Pre-Spring 2017), Grand Palais (Pre-Spring 2018, Antiques Greece), Grand Palais (pre-spring 2019, cruise ship 'La Pausa'), Grand Palais (pre-spring 2020, Chanel express train ).

Typical Chanel retail space for cosmetics in Hong Kong

Perfume and cosmetics

The most famous perfume from Chanel:
N ° 5

Chanel perfumes and cosmetics are available for both men and women. Chanel uses the latest discoveries in organic chemistry and fragrance science to develop perfumes. The creator of the Chanel N ° 5 fragrance, Ernest Beaux, stayed with Chanel until 1954, and was succeeded by Henri Robert (1899–1987) until 1978. After Robert, the perfumer Jacques Polge (* 1943) was head perfumer, and thus “nose”, at Chanel for more than 35 years, until his son Olivier took over this task in 2015. In addition to the fragrances, care and make-up products from Chanel are sold both through its own boutiques and through specialist perfumery shops.

The most famous perfume from Chanel is called Chanel N ° 5 and was launched in France as a women's fragrance in 1921. Over the years, the company has developed a whole range of women's and men's fragrances, e.g. B. Pour Monsieur (♂, 1955; and variations in the following years), Nº 19 (♀, 1971, named after Coco Chanel's date of birth), Cristalle (♀, 1974), Antaeus (♂, 1981), Coco (♀, 1984; and later variations), Egoïste (♂, 1990), Platinum Egoïste (♂, 1993), Allure / Allure Homme (♀ / ♂, 1999; and later variations), Chance (♀, 2002; and later variations), Bleu de Chanel (♂, 2010), Gabrielle (♀, 2017) and many more. Over the years, however, some - especially the numerous fragrances created by Ernest Beaux during the 1930s and 1940s ( Ivoire , Glamor , Cynique, etc.) - were discontinued.

There are also Les Exclusifs de Chanel , a series of fragrances (for women or unisex ) available exclusively in Chanel boutiques in identical flacons, some of which were developed by Ernest Beaux from the 1920s and by Jacques Polge from 2007 or from 2015 by Olivier Polge reissued or created from scratch. These include, for example, Nº 22 (1920s), Gardénia (1925), Cuir de Russie (1925), Bois des Îles (1926), Sycomore (1930), Beige (1931) Coromandel (2007), Nº 18 (2007), 21 Rue Cambon (2007), 28 La Pausa (2007), Bel Respiro (2007), Jersey (2011), 1932 (2012), Misia (2015), Boy (2016) and others. The range originally launched as Eaux de Toilette was replaced by Eaux de Parfum in 2016. With Les Eaux de Chanel , Olivier Polge launched the three women's fragrances Paris - Deauville , Paris - Biarritz and Paris - Venise named after Coco Chanel's favorite places in 2018 .

Celebrities were repeatedly used as advertising media for Chanel perfumes. Coco Chanel posed for advertising campaigns for Chanel N ° 5 in the 1930s. In later years, actresses Catherine Deneuve (from 1968), Ali MacGraw (from 1968), Carole Bouquet (from 1986), Vanessa Paradis (from 1991 ), Estella Warren (from 1998), Nicole Kidman (from 2004) and Audrey Tautou (from 2008) the “face” of Chanel N ° 5. In 1990, the advertising film director Jean-Paul Goude shot a striking commercial for the men's fragrance Egoïste . At the end of 2012, Chanel advertised with Brad Pitt for the first time with a man for Chanel N ° 5 in TV and print campaigns.

watches and jewelry

The first real jewelry collection from Chanel was presented by Coco Chanel in 1932. Nowadays, Chanel has been offering both fashion jewelry and real jewelry since 1993. From 1992 to 2007, the Franco-German jeweler Lorenz Bäumer created Chanel jewelry as chief designer before he was poached by Louis Vuitton (company) . Since then, the jewelry has been designed by a design team in Chanel's jewelry atelier at 18, Place Vendôme in Paris, where Chanel opened a jewelry boutique in 1997.

In 1987, Chanel launched a wristwatch collection for the first time with the women's model Première , which was presented in the watch boutique on Paris' Avenue Montaigne. Since then, numerous models for women and men have appeared. The first sports watch, J12 , was launched in 2000. The Chanel watch manufacture is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland.

Web links

Commons : Chanel  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Geraldine Chaplin is Coco Chanel salzburg.com, November 22, 1913.
  2. ↑ Chanel breaks his silence faz.net from June 22, 2018.
  3. ↑ Keira Knightley plays Coco Chanel , elle.de, March 20, 2013.
  4. ↑ Chanel - Greatest Hits fr.de, August 14, 2009.
  5. ↑ Karl Lagerfeld is dead - obituary for the greatest fashion revolutionary of our time vogue.de, February 19, 2019.
  6. ↑ a b Karl Lagerfeld obituary theguardian.com, February 19, 2019.
  7. ↑ World's Richest People: Wertheimer, Alain & Gerard , forbes.com, 2005.
  8. ↑ Chanel breaks his silence , faz.net, June 22, 2018.
  9. ↑ Chanel, le luxe et le secret , lexpress.fr, August 29, 1996.
  10. ↑ Chanel from A to Z: Cambon , chanel.com, August 31, 2015.
  11. ↑ Chanel agrandit sa boutique du 31, rue Cambon ( Memento of the original from December 11, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , luxurystylemagazine.com, April 13, 2013. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.luxurystylemagazine.com
  12. ^ Karl Lagerfeld to Celebrate Chanel's 100th Anniversary by Directing Keira Knightley .
  13. ^ Queen of Haute Couture , Die Zeit, August 12, 2009.
  14. ↑ Chanel, Inc. Business Week, accessed October 19, 2010.
  15. ↑ 85 years ago: Chanel No. 5 comes onto the market - The Scent of Emancipation , wdr.de, May 5, 2006.
  16. ↑ Lina Das: The woman who REALLY invented French dressing: New movie reveals a different side to Coco Chanel. In: dailymail.co.uk. July 31, 2009, accessed February 23, 2015 .
  17. ↑ carlmarie.de
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  35. ↑ Inside Paraffection: Lesage, est 1924 businessoffashion.com, April 22, 2015.
  36. ↑ The Art of Empire  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , flauntmagazine.com, accessed June 13, 2012.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / flauntmagazine.com  
  37. ↑ Chanel Buys Karl Lagerfeld's Glove-Makers vogue.co.uk, September 27, 2012.
  38. ↑ This is how a pleated dress from Chanel welt.de is made, January 2, 2016.
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  40. ↑ Luxury: Chanel buys traditional tannery Bodin-Joyeux aplf.com, January 22, 2014.
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  42. ↑ Le brodeur Lanel rejoint Lesage dans les métiers d'art de Chanel m-mmm.fr, December 5, 2013.
  43. ↑ Chanel Acquires Indian Atelier Vastrakala vogue.me, June 4, 2014.
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  51. ↑ Michel Gaubert  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , elleuk.com, October 26, 2010.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / m.elleuk.com  
  52. ↑ Haute-Luxe ( Memento of the original from May 13, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , brandeins.de, December 2006. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.brandeins.de
  53. ↑ Folkloristic homage ( Memento of the original from December 21, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , amica.de, accessed: March 21, 2011. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.amica.de
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  55. ↑ Chanel Pre-Fall 2011 Métiers d'Art line - For Kings and Emperors , fem.com, December 11, 2010.
  56. ↑ Lagerfeld's India-Inspired Looks for Chanel , wsj.com, December 6, 2011.
  57. ↑ Chanel in Scotland: Karl Lagerfeld presented the Pre-Fall 2013 collection at Linlithgow Palace , vogue.de, December 5, 2012.
  58. ↑ Chanel heads to Rome and Seoul for 2015 shows ( memento of the original from April 23, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , telegraph.co.uk, January 29, 2015. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / fashion.telegraph.co.uk
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