Jersey (fabric)
A jersey (in Switzerland: tricot , from French tricoter , to knit) is a soft, often elastic fabric , knitted or crocheted , made of yarn , viscose or viscose blends, wool or wool blended yarns , cotton or silk . It looks similar to a fabric with a slight rib pattern.
Jersey fabric is mainly used for clothing such as T-shirts and underwear, or for bed linen. Jersey bed linen is supple, soft, breathable, absorbent and suitable for tumble drying.
Depending on the type of knitting, the following types of jersey are distinguished:
Manufacturing
Jerseys are often made from mixed fibers. Various viscose blends, cotton blends or silk are used. The different types of jersey are made in different ways.
- With single jersey, right and left stitches are used alternately, which makes the fabric very elastic and has a left and a right side.
- Double jersey is knitted either left-left or right-right. This type of meshing makes the fabric more robust and of higher quality.
- Interlock jersey is knitted on two rows of needles and crossed in a right-right bond. It is mainly used for t-shirts, sportswear and underwear.
- Jacquard jersey is also knitted on two rows of needles and works with a variation of knitting, non-knitting and tuck loops. These variations create different rows of stitches, which result in a structural pattern.
- Cloqué jersey consists of two different layers that are knitted together in places. The different tension of the bottom and top fabric creates a visually attractive bubble effect.
history
Jersey was originally made from wool. The name probably comes from Jersey , the largest and most famous of the Channel Islands , which has been an important exporter of woven goods since the Middle Ages. The British society lady Lillie Langtry became famous in 1878 for a picture painted by John Everett Millais , which shows her in a simple black dress made by a seamstress on jersey. Their style enjoyed great popularity in Victorian society and increased the demand for jersey fabrics. The breakthrough - also in haute couture - came with the Coco Chanel collections . She often used cotton machine jerseys; previously jersey was used almost exclusively for underwear. The Vogue wrote in 1999:
"This designer made jersey what it is today — we hope she's satisfied."
"This designer made Jersey what it is today - we hope she's happy with it."
Trade names
Jersey fabrics also play a major role in the growing do-it-yourself scene. In fabric shops these are sold with a wide variety of names, which often result from the type of production and the material used. Fabrics marketed as cotton jersey often contain, in addition to 95–97% cotton, also 3–5% elastane, which is why they are also referred to as stretch jersey.
processing
A special jersey needle should be used for sewing jersey, the bluntly rounded tip of which - similar to a knitting needle - does not damage the mesh structure of the fabric. To prevent the seams from tearing when the fabric is stretched, it is also advisable to choose a stitch with a larger thread width, such as a zigzag or triple stitch , or to work with an overlock machine . Single jerseys in particular tend to curl up at the cut edges.
Web links
literature
- Ingrid Loschek: Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon , Reclam, Stuttgart 2011, ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , p. 287
- Constanze Derham: Stoff und Faden: Materiallexikon , Texts Textilien, Berlin 2016, ISBN 978-3-00-054777-5 , p. 15ff
Individual evidence
- ↑ Jersey - properties and possible uses. Retrieved December 8, 2018 .
- ^ Lemprière, Raoul .: Portrait of the Channel Islands. Hale, London 1970, ISBN 0-7091-1541-5 .
- ^ Theo Aronson: The King in Love - Edward VII's Mistresses . S. 35 .
- ↑ Jersey Girl: History of Coco Chanel In Fabric - Le Souk. Retrieved December 8, 2018 .
- ↑ Linda Watson: Vogue Twentieth Century Fashion . Ed .: Carlton Books. 1999, ISBN 1-85868-517-6 , pp. 112 .
- ↑ Julia Witte called Vedder: Handarbeit: Why sewing is so popular now. In: The world . September 25, 2016, accessed December 8, 2018 .
- ↑ Jersey fabrics - which ones are there and what are the differences? In: Stoffpalast. December 6, 2018, accessed December 8, 2018 (German).